gonna try from the ground...

Spellfeller

Clueless but careful
Joined
Jul 16, 2015
Messages
637
Location
Arden, NC
Hi, all:

Struck by the fact that the Scarlet Oak has been dead/dying for 19+ months and Mellow's observation that "Collateral damage is the cost of waiting so long to address this hazard," I'm going to skip the wreck and just try to fall it. Some smaller trees may suffer. :sad face:

In getting equipped for the Holding Line/Pull Line routine (pictured HERE), I wanted to run my thinking on lines by you all.

Plan is 1/2" Stable Braid for the hold and 1/2" Pro-Master for the pull.

Pro-Master is my usual 3-Strand in the Maasdam, and I figure it should work here with some judicious wedge use!

The 1/2" Stable is rated 10,400lbs ABS/2,100 WLL. Do you think there's any need to go to with a larger diameter than that?

Thanks for any feedback!
 
I only like using 1/2 inch on the smallest of trees. Anything else I prefer something at least one bump larger!
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
Thanks, Butch.

So of 9/16" or 5/8", which would be more generally useful? (I'm assuming going to 3/4" is overkill?)
 
Depends on the weight of the tree being pulled..and its back lean,if any, which can increase the force needed. It would take a good sized tree to overly stress a 1/2" 10k tensile rated line. I use 1/2" often.
 
We have 3 sizes of lines, each appropriate to the amt of weight lowered or pulled. Generally the two smaller lines (.5 and .625) are the most used. We trot out the big one for big stuff like this huge oak we pulled over with our log grapple truck:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OOpmKPUyk14?rel=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
(We once had to use that same rope to pull the chipper truck out of a yard with the grapple truck, after getting stuck after snow melt softened a yard.)
 
If you are pulling by hand or with a ratcheting device, 1/2 inch is fine... I almost never use bull ropes and I go big with both rigging and pulling heavy back leaners over.. I generally prefer to double and triple the 1/2 inch line... But will go to the bull ropes for monster trees occasionally
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
Michael, just for clarity's sake, you're saying 1/2" double braid/12 strand, etc. for a holding line, right?

Or would you use 3-strand as both the pulling AND holding line...?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Got it. Back to the original plan: 3-strand to pull, double braid to hold!
 
Sounds like a good plan.
We pull a lot of wood with 1/2", rig it high but in solid wood and watch the crotch unions.
 
The stretch on the 3-strands is enough some times to pull alone the tree, like a front lean. Or at least, it doesn't need much more to commit the tree to the lay. It's handy, but beware of that to not take the tree on the noggin unexpectingly while walking to the puller if you do both cut and pull for example. The far around path to walk in a secure area isn't always available.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #19
how hard of a lean?

Off site right now, but the trunk leans harder than the crown. Off the top of my head, I'd say 6-8 feet...lot of mass though. I'll try to take some better pictures, if it ever stops raining!

The good thing is I can set the holding line at 180 degrees, directly opposite the lean...
 
Sounds like a 2-3 person job, low skill for 1 or 2 plus a rigger/ sawyer.

One on maasdam, one cutting, one ready to release the guy line. Consider if you can arrange the rope to have the end, rather than the middle at the ground anchor. If you have it tensioned, it will cut like butter. Instantly, without all the trouble of trying to release a loaded LD quickly.

If you have 200 feet of rope and can anchor within 90' of the oak, you could double the rope through a rigging ring on a dead-eye (cheap), and have an end at the ground for cutting. If you mark the spot to cut, you'll lose only about a foot.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #21
Sounds like a 2-3 person job, low skill for 1 or 2 plus a rigger/ sawyer.

Agreed. I was going to try it with two people--as in 1) wedge the bad side, 2) wedge the backcut on a thickish hinge, 3) move to the holding line and run the LD, while 4) contestant #2 cranks on the Maasdam set up with a 2:1 MA.

Drafting a third inmate so I could stay on the saw would be better, provided I elect to go with the low skill "cut the rope" approach below...

SNIP Consider if you can arrange the rope to have the end, rather than the middle at the ground anchor. If you have it tensioned, it will cut like butter. Instantly, without all the trouble of trying to release a loaded LD quickly.

If you have 200 feet of rope and can anchor within 90' of the oak, you could double the rope through a rigging ring on a dead-eye (cheap), and have an end at the ground for cutting. If you mark the spot to cut, you'll lose only about a foot.

Groovy! I can set something like this from the ground...
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=455&item=9012
Not too cheap but super useful, and it's been on the wish list for a while...
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #22
BTW, if & when "unskilled laborer #2" cuts the holding line, I've gotta say I'm going to be on the lookout for it to whip across the void and smack me in the noggin...:lol:
 
And if someone ends up "releasing" the holding line be sure they know not to wrap any ropes around body parts (hands often get wrapped by non-knowers) and they don't use a standing hip belay to hold the rope...and they aren't standing on any rope/bights that can snatch the bejeezus out of them when they release something. Things under pressure are problematic.

The cutting idea is pretty interesting...I'd maybe tape the rope on the working end of the cut to minimize fray once it is cut and whistling down the lane towards your noggin'.


:D
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #24
Sho' 'nuff, Gary!

I'll include those in the safety briefing and take cover myself! :wall:
 
I understand there may be a scenario where you would actually need to slack the holding line as the tree falls but i sure can't picture it..... I always just keep the holding line at desired pretension and hold steady.
 
Back
Top