Patron Saint of Bore-Cutters

I didn't really notice much of an accent at all.

Thanks, Butch.
That is the biggest compliment you can give me.
I've worked on my English ( American, actually) since I started travelling. been my main project all my life.


Danish is very different from English:

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Talk like that!

One time, just for me on a vid. Let me hear what you're trying to cover up.

Be thick as possible with the accent!
 
That is what I do when i get pulled over by the cops in the US. Just pull the most atrocious Danish accent possible.

When I visited Burnham, I pulled it on him.
He almost crashed the truck from laughing so hard.
 
... I've worked on my English ( American, actually) since I started travelling. been my main project all my life...

I will say that your command of American English is superb. It not only impressed me but Sylvia as well when I shared that small clip with her. Thanks for doing that.
 
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Danish is very different from English:
Is that the Danish equivalent to Monty Python in the video? Czech has for me been the most interesting language to take in; a few of my Euro friends are Czech and it's pretty wild to a middle-American ear! But Euskera might be the most unusual thing I've ever encountered.
 
The Voice! Thanks for being brave enough to narrate your video :) I also noticed the American inflections... but still enough Scandinavian to make us believe it's really you.
 
Ha, I doubt anyone believed me when I used to say that Stig is and sounds more like from CA than I am or do. :lol:
Love watching the efficiency of the cutting Stig. Keep emcoming.
 
Will do, Stephen.
Soon as we get back to logging.

And, thanks!:)
 
About five o'clock (or seven) after making a little room on the side of the back strap.
Here he put them just against the hinge for one and just 1" away from it for the second. He had to pound them at least 4 time harder to get the same result.
It's like tying a pull rope at hand reach instead of hight in the crown. But you know that.
Use all the leverage you can get, that lessens the strain in the critical points and eases the things.
And maybe saves the day.
:thumbup:
Towards target direction, most leveraged distance from fold line to that direction, favoring 5 or 7 o'clock if 6 not available/as most powerful
>>Slight sideLean to 1 o'clock>> then would go for 7 o'clock back strap/trigger and 5-6 o'clock wedge
cosine wise still 86.6% of 6 o'clock forward force maintained @5/7 o'clock
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I don't get that extremely open face cut.
Takes forever to make and doesn't work any better than a normal one...
I'll use an open face if I'm trying to work against side lean, and want the hinge intact for as long as possible.
I've never understood the "it stays on the stump longer" or whatever the thinking was. Murphy sure liked using it. I've never seen a single person use it IRL.
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i think mostly want less cutting, and predictable close/shear/throw away from me
Special occasions like sideLean, windy days with lots of sail, obstacles need to push thru/by, downhills, playing around, doing demos etc.where more 'hang time' was desired. Otherwise w/o special invite i want that thing gone with earlier close/shear.
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Mostly if i used wider faces in tree; especially imagining hinge as butt tie that i used with rope to usher hitch point under/towards support point, then cut butt tie/hinge as expendable (actually did butt ties w/quick releases or cut junk rope for same effect also)
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i like 14' 200t in air;
but 16" 460 as walking saw....
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You can run a rope w/o burning it - just don't go heavy OR get a bigger rope.
Preferably both.
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Sometimes slower helps, i've worked breaking friction up rather than one concentration also.
>>sometimes by having carabiner inches over (when line loaded) large support branch to get part of the friction effect with ease in between.
>>many times used carabiners to bend lines to or fro to increase/decrease friction factor and incidence for different load weights w/o resetting line,less weigh make carabiner bend line from frictions somewhat etc..
A number of times rigged off an upside down Porty, also an oversized clevis that i wet ground the numbers off of for frictional redirect/heatsink.
>>then perhaps wood frictions metered in after that takes primary hits/loadings
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I'd rather pull a fall with well placed line than push with wedgie(but would use as anti-sitback on occasion)



edit!: It would be more efficient to exert force from 5-7o'clock
BUT; if want to exert more effort, certainly 1" lift 4" behind hinge both sides IS more pressure than 1" lift from 24" away
The same amount of lift from rear takes less effort to it's 1" max range;
side lift 1" is more effrot yes, but then places out of 1"rear lift range; just less efficeintly
 
Working residential I do bore the stump cut for said reasons ... Rather bore cut w a sharp chain to remove as much meat as possible then get the rest. Works good as stumps are a dirty hassle anyways.
 
Kevin, I for one prefer a bar that doesn't reach all the way through when flushing large stumps, unless the stump is in a completely clean environment, because the pulling teeth on the far side of the stump will pull debris into the kerf and dull the saw at least a little bit. If the tip of bar is buried inside the stump then you are always cutting clean wood. Same idea as if the stump you are flushing is covered on all sides with dirt, mud or grit, you would nose in at a spot you cleaned first and then work your way around with the tip buried and you'd cut the whole stump without getting any dullness.
I do this too. The short bar is good for that.
Often in urban area, the stumps have / had ground work around them and the rain splatters the dirt on the bark, if not the shovel itself. When the chain exits the stump, the teeth somewhat explode the bark by tiny amounts and blow away the dirt on it, so the teeth see only clean wood. Just keep the bar about perpendicular to the bark (if possible).
It doesn't work as good if there's some moss and ivy, a foliated bark or a loose dead bark. The grit can't be send away.
It doesn't work at all of course if there's some dirt embedded between two buttress roots or in an included bark.
 
It has become known as the Jed method, or simply, Jedding the stump
 
I did it today, with a twist. The stump had rain splattered dirt on its entire circumference, there was no clean spot to start cutting in. I coulda gotten an axe or whatever to make a clean spot but being far too lazy to leave the stump, I made 3 or 4 side by side, diagonal scribes with the chain starting about 16" up where the stump was clean and leading down to near ground level, those scribes created a clean spot large enough to start with the nose of the bar. Dirty stump flushed, chain undulled. :drink:
 
A blower won't remove dirt/sand which is stuck to the stump from rain, afaik.
 
A good nozzle on a good garden hose can help. Wetting the area down, if the conditions are now dry, can help with dust. Leaving the backpack blower idling, with the handle steadied by some chunks of tree, blowing on the sawyer can make the exhaust and dust dramatically decreased.
 
Just ask the apprentice to do it.
They benefit from the extra filing practice.
 
I don't think anyone walks away from flushing the stump residential with a sharp chain , just a sad fact. Without apprentices I accept filing to get my saw back.Though I try not file on site bringing extra saws.
 
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