Stihl 201 spark arrester plugged

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
I’ve already opened up the muffler. I wasn’t sure what the deal was with the plastic in front of the carb intake so I drilled a big hole in it too. Now if I could just get the p.o.s. to oil all the time...
 
You need that screen if you're operating the saw in a jurisdiction that requires spark arresting...the US Forest Service being one example. Many other gov't units from state to county to municipal contracts require the same. But having said that, none of my saws have screens, but all can have them re-inserted if need be.

Cutting firewood on the USFS permit, I run screenless, most importantly without the screw that holds the screen in place. That screw and the screen are in my service kit...if I get busted, I can claim "lost while in use, but I can replace it right now"...never expect to have a serious issue with an LEO or permit inspector...I know from experience how that side of the equation works ;).

Of course, the other way to deal with the issue is to include removing the screen and wire brushing it clean at each air filter cleaning cycle. Keep a spare on hand and you can deal with it in your shop. Screens are cheap.
 
You might consider a cleaner burning synthetic mix oil. If the screen looks like that then what does the inside of the exhaust port look like? A better mix oil will leave less deposits. Echo and Stihl silver bottle are two that I've used extensively. The Stihl orange bottle oil is actually pretty bad.
 
You also might want to consider doing some large cookie cuts with the saw now and again to get it properly hot.

I've never run anything with a screen, like I've said befor the only way to start a forst fire here is to call in a napalm strike.
But, back in my pulp cutting days, the saws used solely for limbing gummed up something terrible in the mufflers.
So every other day or once a week we'd cut a stump the wrong way and get then hot.

Fireworks would come out the muffler and they'd be good to go again.

Today, running only alkylate, I never have any trouble with that, even on the saws that never really get to run all out.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
I’ve never had an issue with my big saws but they get run hot and hard. The forest service is good about inspections before we start any work on their jobs so it’s easier to leave them in. Besides, that way if there is a fire I’m covered for the most part. I had never seen one plug like this before so I was surprised but it doesn’t get run very hard so it shouldn’t surprise me.
 
I was told, a propane torch will burn the carbon off, glowing red SA. gtg.

Remember, remove from saw first. ;)
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Oh I removed it, pulled it out and snipped the screen off with a pair of tin snips and bolted it back on. I opened up the exhaust a little more too while I was at it.

I snipped the screen on my new leaf blower too.
 
If you modified the muffler before your screen got partially plugged, My bet would be that there was not enough exhaust flow through the screen to keep it clean.
 
I think of that type of thing pretty often when the 'take out the screen' topic comes up. Fine enough if you work in a wet area or time of year but, how would you like to be the guy that started some big fire?

I have heard of fires from mowers hitting rocks in my area in the hot low humidity summer months.
 
Pretty much all my work is usually within 150' of a water spigot so that isn't quite the same as working out in the woods miles from any source of pressurized water. But the Federal government tends to enact Federal rules for local issues.
 
I totally agree, Merle.
If we had fire danger here and screens were mandatory, I'd use them for sure.
 
I have taken all mine out, prolly pointless but I’m like that.

The best way to improve your saws performance is of course a really sharp chain.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #18
If you modified the muffler before your screen got partially plugged, My bet would be that there was not enough exhaust flow through the screen to keep it clean.

I opened the exhaust slighty before the screen plugged so if anything there should have been more air flow.
 
I opened the exhaust slighty before the screen plugged so if anything there should have been more air flow.
If you drilled a sizeable hole =7/16 somewhere on the muffler, exhaust flow through the screen would have been less.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #20
I’m not following you.?.?.? I increased the size of the existing exhaust port. How could that reduce the amount of flow through the screen?
 
I’m not following you.?.?.? I increased the size of the existing exhaust port. How could that reduce the amount of flow through the screen?

Not quite sure how you increased the size of the exhaust port or what good that would do.
Most are the same size as the muffler inlet.
Either way, disregard my opinion.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #22
I like to think of it like breathing through a straw. The harder you work the more difficult it gets to breath. The picture shows the round exhaust port as it is now and it’s probably almost twice as large as it was from the factory. Compared to the cylinder exhaust port it’s still smaller.

FC7290B0-1A85-4744-805B-D75A91530D23.jpg

B6228C8F-0FCC-40AE-89D5-9A36833A169C.jpg
 
As long as he didn't drill a hole in the side of the muffler, the airflow would be increased due to reduced restrictions as the exhaust gases move through the muffler. If he did poke a hole, the saw would breathe better, but the airflow through the screen would be greatly reduced.
 
Back
Top