The Official Work Pictures Thread

Rich, do you ever hesitate to do the felling cut so low due to debris likely embedded in the bark at that height?
 
Planned ahead. After looking at the stump and laying the saw around from the sides and the rear, I would’ve had about a six inch stab that would’ve been unreachable. Only takes a few seconds to gut the hinge. This one had a slight back lean so we had a pull rope in it. I didn’t want to mess with pounding by that point.
Cory i do hesitate at times. Kinda depends on the location I’m working in. Also I will raise up to straighter grained wood if it’s gonna be a real tight lay or high winds ( not real gusty) with brush still on, or side weight/ lean. I got into the low cuts when I was doing a lot of clearings. Had to have low stumps so machinery could move around and picking up a two foot long piece of wood was a PITA.
 
20 inch bar on the 461. I was to lazy to walk back around the truck to grab the next size up.

20 inch bar on the 461. You got skills, so you didn't have to walk back to the truck for the next size up.


By boring in and walking the saw around, you use, Cory's keep you stumping chain sharp technique (IIRC) of always pulling stuff outward from the cut, with inside clean wood. Inclusions are tough, of course, but looks like an optimal way about it.

The more your gut from front, the less cutting on the back-cut, dealing with dulling inclusions.
 
Yeah, makes sense, Rich. A 2' long piece of wood can be a pita but on most of my jobs it works out ok, so I cut most of mine a bit high. And then I can flush the stump and still keep chain sharp using the 'cutting mud 'technique

Edit: Yes, exactly right, Sean.
 
Back to my cracked tree...I have sourced a 3'6" auger drill bit...I can get 1/2" or 3/4"...which would you recommend?
 
Fi, what size rod do you have? I use a 3/4" bit for 5/8" eye bolts. I think a 1/2" bit that long would be easy to break or bend.
 
This is Not my forte.



I bet if sharp, and used well, with the scaffolding available (picnic tables), 1/2" bits would work. Would they normally sell them that long if bendy/ breaky? Start with shorter, if you want/ can, and go up to 42".


1/2" rod calls for (as usual, 1/16 or 1/8" larger bit) 9/16th or 5/8" bit, per BMPs.
I've only got one bit for 1/2" rod, and IDK the size.




The 3/4 is a lot more volume, over double, but won't break.



How many rods?
 
Going with the 3/4, hubby is happy means he gets a new drill out of this too.
We had some 1/2 rod, but decided to go bigger.
The drill bits are made once you order them...they have one even longer, 5'3", thought that might be overkill!
 
One day the pwr source will be a tiny chip you plug in with a microscopic piece of uranium powering it for years.
 
Not to start any power tool flame war, but here's a true story: I have access to both a DeWalt 20V XR set and a Milwaukee 18V set. I had to epoxy set some anchors into the basement foundation rock walls in order to cinch the side deck's ledger board to the house. So hammer drill time -- since I had access to both, I started with the DeWalt and it was slow going, even with a friend prying a 2x4 against the back of the drill to give it some good back pressure into the rock. DeWalt was smoking hot and the battery wore down quickly. The Milwaukee hammer drill did the job with obviously more torque, overall power, and less heat generation. And it's battery lasted through 2 more anchor holes (3 total).
 
There are certain tools where a battery powered option is handy, but a corded one is made for real work. Grinders, circular saws, hammer drills, large drills, sawsalls, and impact wrenches need to be corded (or air) to work the crap out of them.
 
Unless the hammer drill is an SDS Max, SDS+, or Spline drive they aren't meant for serious drilling. Most hammer drills (like the one Brian and stumpshot posted) are meant for small holes 1/4" or less for masonry screws i.e. attaching an electrical junction box or conduit to a wall.
 
There's a massive difference between drilling wood and drilling concrete. But I appreciate (sarcasm) everybody informing me how inadequate my drill is for the task I bought it for. If you hadn't told me I would never have known that my drill sucks.

The rest of you are welcome to continue dragging extension cords out to jobsites and begging access to the customer's power outlet before trying to drag the cord up in the tree with you to drill a little hole in wood.
 
You ever drill a four foot deep 3/4 inch hole through hardwood Sqwerl?

You've been there done that?

Jomo
 
Not with a cordless drill, unless it's a huge gas powered Milwaukee hole hawg wielded by Paul Bunyan......

Jomo
 
There's a massive difference between drilling wood and drilling concrete. But I appreciate (sarcasm) everybody informing me how inadequate my drill is for the task I bought it for. If you hadn't told me I would never have known that my drill sucks.

The rest of you are welcome to continue dragging extension cords out to jobsites and begging access to the customer's power outlet before trying to drag the cord up in the tree with you to drill a little hole in wood.

I'm not bagging on your drill just commenting that your Dewalt or the Milwaukee (which I own and cable with) is not up to the task of heavy drilling in masonry. Light duty TapCon stuff, sure all day, but over 1/4" and they are slow going.
 
Back
Top