Skinny trees.

Treebilly, well explained. This is standard operating practice for me, with one exception climbing past a bad spot I question holding up. I have thought/worried about a part breaking out and if on loop runner and you took the fall that piece may control your hitch in a deadly manner. Just something to think about.
And yes I know still lanyard would be around the piece but that seems much less life threatening.
A topic I know should be questioned/discussed more. It's own thread?
 
You're going to have the piece of broken tree on your rope with you. Bad news no matter what. I wonder more about just winding up through the branches, spiralling around the bole.

If I were to know that I were going to have to use the 'lead rock climbing' technique, I'd choke at the bottom, and on up, in order to put maximum rope in the system to absorb energy.

IDK, but I think that its 4" diameter. I don't think twice about tying into healthy 4" Doug-fir, vertical bole.



Skinny, wobbly trees are bad to top-out with no branches below to dissipate energy. Pop the top, then finish stripping, even of only leaving a couple small branches.
 
Could be a viable option Sean. I thought about being attached to a broken top. It would suck, but not as bad as falling to the ground. When I say this I'm not talking about a big top with a bad spot at 10" diameter. I'm talking healthy trees ( & tops) that for some reason you need to get up to the last tuft of needles. I've only had to do this a few times, and honestly it was just to rip off the very top because I could.
 
I see that it is a seperate system, built around dynamic rope. I'm surprised that it is choked with a carabiner, rather than a RB.
 
In practice, one as often as the other is chosen, at the climbers discretion.

And if need be, a skookum climber can figure out how to deploy a DRT system similarly.
 
Last edited:
I always use my hands on my flipline and squeeze the trunk with that,i hike up 80ft palms all day that are skinnier than my waist without Xing up my flipline. I will however secure myself as fast as possible when I reach the top,especially when the wind gets to blowing 😖
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #110
Burnham nice info thanks for that , awesome thought on that , thanks for the info.
 
Maybe that's it, Sean. Hardly seems to rise to the level of "promoting use of lead" to include the common throw bag in a guide to tree climbing equipment and techniques...but then, we all know of RopeArmour's point of view is a bit skewed:).
 
Thanks for all the tips/questions everyone - some really good stuff here to consider.
 
Bixler and me a few years ago taking out 11 tall skinny pondos in back yard. My heels are about touching, im on right getting ready to take top..

IMHO, steel core flip lines are the best...I use 5/8's, easy to flip.

Spikes were going in solid on theses pondie's so no need to wrap flip line or have line above, but would toss climb line over a branch or two if needed from time to time to advance.

Its better to keep hands on flip line than on trunk to go up.

On skinny trees where spikes not going in well I Choke my climb line above me to advance, yep its slower but safe ;)


6d7K1cV.jpg
 
Back
Top