Red versus clear hydraulic oil for Mini-loader

I had clear hydraulic oil for my Boxer. I was refilling with two jugs I had on hand, which were clear.

When I started to pour

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-R-and-O-Hydraulic-Oil-5-Gallon/16795135

this, it was red. I can't find ISO 46 on the jug. I'm going to go look some more. It doesn't really say something different than ISO 46.


Some reading points to it just being red dye.


What's up?

Are you sure that's not ATF fluid? ISO 68 in mine.....clear

Lots of tractor fluid is red.

Unfortunately, no ISO rating on the bottle. Internet Reviews had the same problem by other consumers.

Case IH hydraulic fluid is dyed red, Cenex is green. Conoco is clear.

I guess I would look into the requirements of your boxer. There are some differences in "hydraulic" oils. Some are straight hydraulic, some are designed for use in final drives, transmissions and hydraulic systems.

If your machine requires a certain type of oil, thats the one you should use. Makes no difference what color it is.

I would bet that your Boxer takes the combo oil, known around here as universal tractor fluid, or PowerTran.

Does this oil you have now have a compatibility list on it?

The Boxer says ISO 46.

The label says R and O hydraulic oil.

The first container that I emptied, which has been in the shop, said ISO 46.




http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-R-and-O-Hydraulic-Oil-5-Gallon/16795135

It seems like it would be fine. The fact that it has the anti wear package along with the r and o should make it okay.

I was looking on the net to see if your machine needed Hyd oil or the Tractor Fluid. Hydraulic oil is the spec from Boxer.

Thats what this SuperTech oil is, straight Hydraulic oil. Should be fine. Any hyd oil with a weight of ISO46 would work, with the anti wear package being more important than the R and O, apparently.

I'm learning more about hydraulics and diesel engines.

The R and O is anti-Rust and anti-Oxidation.

HOLY SH^%. Two bald eagles just flew by outside my window, about 20' from the house. I'm only about 300' from a creek that empties into the Puget Sound about 0.5 miles from here.

Back to the regularly scheduled programming...

There is a balancing point between the viscosity being thin/ thick enough to be effective...





"Although many manufactures of hydraulic fluid provide various grades of detergents and oxidation stability in the fluids they produce, the single factor that should weight the heaviest in determining the best choice of fluid to use is viscosity, otherwise known as the fluid's weight. Viscosity is also most often expressed as the fluids ISO number or grade.
Common ISO grades for use with hydraulic systems include 32, 46 and 68. Sometimes, 10, or 10 weight is mentioned as well. I would like to point out that for basic operation of any hydraulic system without concern to long-term effects of the systems life, 10W-40 automotive engine may be used, providing it does not contain degertant additives, and these additives used in engine oil can cause corrosion and cavitation. This occurs because the detergents can cause water that has condensed into the system to emulsify, preventing it from being seperated from the oil.
It is recommended however, that a proper hydraulic fluid be used, and chosen based on its ISO grade. These fluids do not contain harmful additives that can cause damage to components, and are designed to work within a specific temperature range. "

Higher viscosity hydraulic fluid tend to reduce the system's operating temperature by increasing the volumetric efficiency of the pump. If the viscosity is too high, however, will cause poor mechanical effieciency by increased friction during startup, and may lead to cavitation. Finding the right ISO grade that balances the benefits of volumetric effeciency against the drawbacks of mechanical efficiency is the key to a good long term oil choice. Ultimatly the manufacturer of the equipment knows this value and is always best to consult the manufacturer to try to obtain the answer.






Manufacturer knows best.

Yep, I bet you would have no problem with 46.

We get cold out here, but rarely change to a lighter oil. Most of what we use is tractor fluid, we use very little straight hyd oil.

Cool seeing the eagles, they are a majestic bird and........did you see that ski jump, wow he nailed it!

Well, my hydraulic inexperience shows through. My friend who ran heavy equipment for long, long time, and has the kboom, said that if its not contaminated, just change the filter.

Different than a transmission, I guess. Engine oil gets dirty from combustion soot.

Interesting. I've always thought "Tractor Fluid" was somehow a lower grade of hydro oil.