The original prototype almost worked on 9 or 10 mm htp, but crept. I tested with a prussic-over-akimbocorn (unicorn).
You all would be proud of me. I figured out how to make a clean face-cut,View attachment 92338
Possibly a little over 1/3 depth...I had Billy-Bob pull real hard with that clothes line.
I was moving the saw back and forth a lot while cutting off the ladder in the tractor bucket, holding my mouth just right.
I know, I'm not that bright.
I'm using Stigs prototype on Tachyon 11.5...still trying to find the best setting for easy release, I have to pull quite hard to get going downwards...any suggestions?
Fi, check if the Akimbo moves freely when not on a rope.
I just had an issue with mine, the upper part got stuck in a certain position, but only some times.
A lot of WD 40 and massaging it back and forth took care of that.
I run mine with the bottom set 2 holes less friction than the top arm but it will vary. I also do not set the top cam so loose that it is wholly dependent on the spring action to make it work. The Akimbo is so quick and easy to change friction settings, don't waist your time climbing on it if it's not right, even mid climb. One pin hole difference can change things without any great risk in doing so.
Something with some stretch is great. I've been using a "buff" for tending my srt systems for a few years.
On a side note I lucked into an akimbo today. Didn't get a chance to do anything but hang from the rafters ( had to put a clutch in the yota today...)
I will say it's super high quality like everything else I've seen from rock Exotica. Also super compact and light.
Looking forward to getting some air time on it.
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