Lightning protection systems

sotc

Dormant hero!!
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I have a client wanting one of these systems installed in a large redwood. These trees flat explode when hit. I assisted on one install a very long time ago, I understand the basics but need to order the BMP's for it. Just wondering if any of you have much experience with them and can make recommendations on parts, techniques, what not to do etc.
 
I used to install a ton. This company is a great way to order parts: http://www.ipclp.com/index.html . If you give the height and diameter, they can help spec out the size and quantity of components. If you don't install many, you don't want to end up with a bunch of extra fasteners and couplers.

A redwood would be pretty easy, just a straight shot. avoid any sharp bends, which should be easy enough, and I always place the conductor on the side opposite the house, if possible.

Fencing pliers are my favorite tool and the only one I use. You can use it to drive fasteners and clamp the conductor to them. Pre install the air terminal on the conductor on the ground ( I prefer the blunt Bartlett tip), along with a couple fasteners placed close together. Putting those couple fasteners on the conductor on the ground will make it a lot easier to hang it in the tree after pulling it up the whole way. That's the hard part. after that, just descend and install fasteners every 3-6 feet or so. You'll develop a feel for how close to space the fasteners based on the twists and bends in the tree. Obviously the straighter the trunk the farther apart you can go. You just don't want the conductor super tight or too loose. I usually throw a couple extra in at the bottom because this is where it will be apt to get pulled loose.

A fence post driver will work for the ground rod but they do make one for ground rods with a slimmer barrel. A little easier to use. Ground plates can be used in rocky soil but are not as effective.
 
I wouldn't mind learning about it. Never had to install one but I've removed a few trees with them in. Pruned a few also. Just not much call for it here I geuss.
 
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I used to install a ton. This company is a great way to order parts: http://www.ipclp.com/index.html . If you give the height and diameter, they can help spec out the size and quantity of components. If you don't install many, you don't want to end up with a bunch of extra fasteners and couplers.

A redwood would be pretty easy, just a straight shot. avoid any sharp bends, which should be easy enough, and I always place the conductor on the side opposite the house, if possible.

Fencing pliers are my favorite tool and the only one I use. You can use it to drive fasteners and clamp the conductor to them. Pre install the air terminal on the conductor on the ground ( I prefer the blunt Bartlett tip), along with a couple fasteners placed close together. Putting those couple fasteners on the conductor on the ground will make it a lot easier to hang it in the tree after pulling it up the whole way. That's the hard part. after that, just descend and install fasteners every 3-6 feet or so. You'll develop a feel for how close to space the fasteners based on the twists and bends in the tree. Obviously the straighter the trunk the farther apart you can go. You just don't want the conductor super tight or too loose. I usually throw a couple extra in at the bottom because this is where it will be apt to get pulled loose.

A fence post driver will work for the ground rod but they do make one for ground rods with a slimmer barrel. A little easier to use. Ground plates can be used in rocky soil but are not as effective.
Excellent, that is fantastic help, thank you!
 
Glad that helps, I don't get to do these much anymore but I really enjoyed it when I was. I worked in the Washington DC area as well as the Pittsburgh PA area which both experience a lot of lightning strikes per year. I would imagine Florida would be a good place to sell the service as well.
 
Great tip re preinstalling the air terminal. Blunts work best; tested in NM and unrelated to any tree cutting company.

On many trees i's hard to guess where the first few fasteners will go. Routing conductor on underside of leans is harder to install, but protects from damage by falling branches, animals ropes, and climbers.

IPCLP tends to over-spec # of fasteners, and air terminals needed.
I like to carry enough for one system; never know when it will be sold as an add-on service-1st attached, and whyclimb the tree twice?

Thread the conductor through 8' pvc at base to protect from thieves and accidental damage.
"Bolts" looks at assessing and repairing after strikes.

BMP not that useful on this--much left out-- but maybe helps w basics.

View attachment Dendro 1108 Mutilated 187kb.pdf

View attachment Detective Dendro - The Case of the Bolts from the Blue.pdf

View attachment Lightning TCIA 2008.pdf
 
"Thieves" Do you have Romanian gypsies out your way?
 
Only tip I have to add is Wraptor up in the line you want the cable that way you can pull cable up as you go, put spool of cable on 2 jack stands with a rod though it so it feeds out as you go up. Easy money with a Wraptor.
 
I would love to do more of them, I have been in the last month to 5 nice oaks that have been hit three of which I hope truly survive.
 
Guy, They used to give the option to use the 2002 specs or the older one. Not sure why anyone would use the older spec.

I renovated a bunch of lightning protection at Kentuck Knob, a Frank Lloyd Wright house outside of Pittsburgh several years ago that another company had installed several years before that and they had done it all to the old NFPA spec and it was poorly done to boot. I'm talking squatty little sugar maples with like 3 air terminals (all too low to do any good) in them and all 32 strand conductor (even the secondary leads). Trees with cables had been bonded, but UPWARDS. Real mess to fix up.

I'm still curious why you feel the BMP is lacking? Not to sound arrogant, but I have installed probably over a hundred systems and damn near feel like an expert. Still, I'm hard pressed to think of any more tips and tricks to installation beyond my first post, and honestly the BMP probably covers all of that anyway. I'm not baiting you or anything, I am just legitimately curious and always willing to learn new things.
 
Nothing like a good lightning strike on a tree close to a residence, and that knocked the home owner out of bed, to make a person want to consider tree removals. Way out in the boonies.
 

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Only tip I have to add is Wraptor up in the line you want the cable that way you can pull cable up as you go, put spool of cable on 2 jack stands with a rod though it so it feeds out as you go up. Easy money with a Wraptor.
8) Might be able to get my hands on one of those!
Guy, They used to give the option to use the 2002 specs or the older one. Not sure why anyone would use the older spec.

I renovated a bunch of lightning protection at Kentuck Knob, a Frank Lloyd Wright house outside of Pittsburgh several years ago that another company had installed several years before that and they had done it all to the old NFPA spec and it was poorly done to boot. I'm talking squatty little sugar maples with like 3 air terminals (all too low to do any good) in them and all 32 strand conductor (even the secondary leads). Trees with cables had been bonded, but UPWARDS. Real mess to fix up.

I'm still curious why you feel the BMP is lacking? Not to sound arrogant, but I have installed probably over a hundred systems and damn near feel like an expert. Still, I'm hard pressed to think of any more tips and tricks to installation beyond my first post, and honestly the BMP probably covers all of that anyway. I'm not baiting you or anything, I am just legitimately curious and always willing to learn new things.
8)
Nothing like a good lightning strike on a tree close to a residence, and that knocked the home owner out of bed, to make a person want to consider tree removals. Way out in the boonies.

Wrecked many like that, still, it is rare to see a system here on the west coast
 
To clarify my above post, I meant that Independent Protection Co. gave you the option of ordering parts based on the 2002 ANSI spec or the older LPI/NFPA spec. might be why they over spec some orders.

Understood; they still give that option. i was talking about # of terminals and fasteners (which i think are crap). one guy in the uk howls long and loud that the skinny wire's no good, so the heavy stuff is still used over there. he also made a better fa$tener which is sold thru Davey.

the A300 and the bmp both written by same entity, both omit what to do with trees that have been hit, both leave out mention of better fasteners, needed guidance on grounding etc. way too conservative imo but ok for basics.
 
the A300 and the bmp both written by same entity, both omit what to do with trees that have been hit, both leave out mention of better fasteners, needed guidance on grounding etc. way too conservative imo but ok for basics.
I was recently looking for exactly this info to no avail. Is it out there and could you lead me in that direction?
 
ArborBolt described on page 41 of the 2008 piece attached above. :rolleyes:

info on what? re grounding see ben's website. the better but discontinued threaded fastener pictured p 10-11; for struck trees, see Dendro Bolts and page 15

o and hey riskybiz if you wanna hire me for a day late next week to suss out some struck trees together, gimme a buzz, yer a short detour on the way to ISA. Rates negotiable if beer is cold. ;)

View attachment Lightning TCI 2007.pdf
 
interesting. Says on the client list "The Care of Trees". I worked for them in Virginia but that was pre Davey buyout. We used the old style fasteners then. I'd like to give those a try. Too bad I don't install any LP these days.
 
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