Magic Cut for vertical spars, etc

Perhaps Sean you would like to post some pictures of you using the magic cut on bigwood of millibus length I think that would be a lot more to talk about than those little pictures you posted of cutting wood that could easily be handled with a snap cut
 
I could imagine enough "what ifs" to stay in bed, meanwhile...

Physics are physics, no reason to stick to 4'.

Again. Longer logs, Humboldt.
 
True Sean, but put another way, in the absence of a hinge your options are reduced, not increased. The same amount of cutting. I just cant see the benefit.
 
Just take a little felling lever up, much easier. Can tip huge logs over, predictably and in the direction you need with a standard cut.
 

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Its good to have all the tricks and tools in your bag that can be used when needed and appropriate for the job... august made a video promoting the speed of just chunking down a tree as a fast technique that leaves the ground guys free to process the material... While I agree with Sean that the physics may be there in longer pieces, I don't see that the advantages are so great as to over-ride the need for a hinge... on the other hand when taking smaller pieces (chunking) there is no need for a hinge... the snap cut or diagonal cut would be considered industry standard...

I never really messed around with the diagonal cut too much... probably should try it..

A red oak log, 4' long by 20" diameter weighs something north of 500 pounds... pushing that piece over with a snap cut is going to be a lot harder than letting the saw do the work... and there is always a chance that a piece that big is going to sit down on the bar..

maybe the diagonal cut made with back chaining to fill the kerf up with sawdust would be faster and just as effective as the magic cut. Pretty sure someone around here does that.. would like to see some video..
 
Its actually been so long since I used it that I forgot to cut a narrow notch.. you don't need 45 degrees with the cut I showed...

Silly waste of time eh???

Rather than get into an online pissing match, perhaps a race is in order...

stock saws and new stock chain .. I run a 461, 24" bar ...

looking for a straight stick 18-20" diameter oak.. 4' lengths .. 3-4 cuts from the bucket...

and to make it a little more exciting, we (all) could put a little wager on it...

Hey, I wasn't trying to come off pissing 'match-ish" (even though I'm the best tree cutter-downer in the galaxy :lol:8) )
I just literally thought it was silly, so much so that I subconsciously figured you didn't care much about it either. Plus you know how I cut, usually one pass on shorter pieces, either with a push or a salami. Bad Trees 7 Huge pieces one cut. I don't have time to race. :)
 
Reg pretty much invented something like that. I always assumed as an effort to deal with UK micromanagement or indoctrination of notch sizes.

Or was his invention to move blocks that had sat down on one pass through cut… I don’t remember.
 
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It's actually to club any OSHA-type person that wanders onto the job site and attempts to micromanage.
 
I picture the magic cut for elongated sections, not short fat ones. But it soon becomes redundant or impractical just outside of the parameters of too short or long sections. Its probably not worth arguing over. I just personally wouldn't encourage it over the other options out there
 
Thanks Daniel, “ batteries seven“ (as Siri calls it) many have said is my best vid. It was the last edit I did using Sony Vegas before I switched (probably permanently) to Mac.
 
Good to know some details about your video editing process -- I've been wondering. I use iMovie and Final Cut Pro for my editing work, some other programs for titles and what not.
 
Where is your stuff? I’d like to see it. Final Cut Pro is pretty amazing. imovie is pretty in unamazing.
 
Love this one Stumpshot!
Thanks! That one got the Daniel Murphy seal of approval, too -- although the skidsteer was used after the fact to grab the log and lift it off the deck without scarring the decking or steps -- no pulling over necessary. I'm trying to get a GoPro or other HD camera so we can get some better quality shots. My handheld digicam with HD capabilities shows its age at 10 years old. But videos are pretty far down the priority list, mostly just for customer education/entertainment and to have a rudimentary video presence. I think it gives customers a sense of security so they can get a feel for who is going to show up and do the work. With yours, they get the whole Reality Tree-Vee experience!

Now back to your regularly scheduled thread. (But that was a nice hinge & holding fibers!)
 
I modified a prybar into a look like felling lever, but I very rarely use it because I hate to hear it banging on my chainsaw during the climb.

I found the usefull length for the magic cut is between 3 and 5 log's diameter. Under 3, it isn't worth it and the log can stall easily on the cut. Over 5, it becomes risky or at least worrying (in case of bad reading the local lean).
 
Daniel, how does the back cut height compare to the face cut floor height?

Thanks.

All you gotta do is watch the video closely to answer that question... Though it's really just common sense.. your photos put the back cut below the notch kerf, which is unnecessary, and slightly counter productive...

A couple people have mentioned that doing so will prevent saw snatch.. Sorry guys.. you don't understand how saw snatch works... there is NO CHANCE of saw snatch when the notch is deep enough to undermine the COG...
 
I've never used one. Anyone else besides Mick have experience with them?

Yes, I do. On the ground it is always next to me when felling. Great for the split level cut on small back leaners, breaking out face cut wedges, tipping a balanced tree...also mine has the cant hook on it too, great for rolling hung up stuff.
I've never climbed with it.
 

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