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Thread: Magic Cut for vertical spars, etc

  1. #1
    Treehouser Sponsor SouthSoundTree's Avatar
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    Default Magic Cut for vertical spars, etc

    Originally brought to my attention by
    Gord's TB post, years ago.
    Deep horizontal


    Sloping cut, conventional or Humboldt--- forms the full bypass at traditional hinge area


    Low back cut/ snap cut



    All three cuts ( I was sloppy... Not a clean, 2 plane intersection). Normally, green wood releases. This is a dry, log, small enough you wouldn't think twice about a snap cut and push, or cut through and push single handedly.






    Slight tap and it's off.


    Out the door in a few minutes. Hope this clarifies from the discussion in the cool Euc WR thread.https://www.masterblasterhome.com/sh...285#post669285 God bless consistent friction! SRT!
    --Sean--

  2. #2
    TreeHouse Administrator MasterBlaster's Avatar
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    So, it's just undermining the center of gravity (COA), like Jerry showed in his first book? Am I missing something?

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    Monkey for Hire Sponsor biggun's Avatar
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    Thanks. It was all in the terminology. That is pretty much how I do it. Front horizontal add a snip or face and then back it under to form the step and push.
    Rich.

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    TreeHouse Administrator MasterBlaster's Avatar
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    The best part to me is making the backcut lower than the frontcut... you'll never get your saw snatched!

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    Bamboo Plantation Owner Sponsor Tucker943's Avatar
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    That's a saw snatcher there.

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    TreeHouse Administrator MasterBlaster's Avatar
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    Why do you say that? Ever since I first saw that method, I've always successfully used it when blocking down a spar. It's physically impossible to get a grip - what's gonna hold it?

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    TreeHouser Sponsor treesmith's Avatar
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    I had a saw ride a cut to the ground about 27 years ago when trying to "jump cut" a gum chunk. It was about 12" in diameter, and Asplundh's method was undercut it 1/3 to 1/2 and them make the top cut 2" beyond the undercut. When it went, it took the saw with it. There was nothing I could do. I later learned that making the top (or secondary cut) behind (or below) solves the problem cleanly. The biggest remaining problem is not nipping the corners.
    "Honor is what no man can give you...and none can take away. Honor is a man's gift to himself."

    -Rob Roy McGregor

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    Bamboo Plantation Owner Sponsor Tucker943's Avatar
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    If a piece goes over while your bar is coming on lower them the apex of the notch, you run a good risk of saw snatch. I've parted ways with a saw or two.

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    TreeHouse Administrator MasterBlaster's Avatar
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    Take another look... it's impossible.


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    Treehouser Sponsor mistahbenn's Avatar
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    My method for rigging big wood is similar to this.... make a 80%undercut, then make a face of say 50%, (undermining the centre of gravity) then make the backcut slightly below the under cut, and push the piece off, no hinge! works nicely, I have a vid somewhere...
    "....oh and I fingered a couple of honeys once in the church graveyard."

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