euc removal with wrench

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Yeah, not me, I don't come across too many euc around here
 
Yeah that was an awesome vid, lotta good techniques and action and editing. I was loving the music too but then later some of it seemed off time with itself, anyone notice that?

The bark on those eucs looks really cool, at least to me whose never seen a euc.

Who is Jack Price? Let's get him to join the House!!
 
Good video. God bless consistent friction.

Kevin, you have any of your work pics to post? Post more often, ay?

I wish I climbed more spreading hardwoods that seem prevalent around your parts.
 
Really well done. Thanks.

Don't know why you guys cut out chunks like that though. Why sapwood cuts? Why pound wedges into the sides?
 
I presume the sapwood cuts, nipping the sides of the box/backcut, is to prevent sapwood-tear down the stem. But never having cut euc before, Im not positive.
 
Overall, looks like a very efficient job.

Personally, I really, really like "Gord's 'magic cut'" for chunking down vertical spars. Ropes are way too much work, add wedges in there, add tying up one or two groundies, add have a second rope ready to send up while the first is being unburied or climber waiting for rope to be freed to then have up two rope (hauling line and pull line), then get the climb line tail managed. No bashed ropes.

Frequently, residential work doesn't allow a lot of good line angles when pulling chunks, as yards can be small/ obstructed. Groundies exert a lot of downward energy, losing efficiency. Alternately, if you can get a good line angle by backing up, where the rope runs more horizontally, you have more rope to carry and manage.



This climber maximize their leverage by choking on the back side and running over the top. My impression is that this technique is virtually as easy as choking on the front, yet often not done. Helps keep the knot from getting pinned under the log, more often.

They were dropping wood in to a tight hole, with a bad bounce that would have hurt that house.


The magic cut: Deep facecut, undermining the center of gravity, full dutchman, low back cut. Tips itself off with a surprisingly decent amount of directional control for no hingewood. Only the climber involved, no excess pulling up excess ropes, groundies processing wood rather than trying to bend/ break a hinge and overcome the center of gravity of a heavy chunk.

Save time, take a break.
 
Sean, why a dutchman instead of a normal open face? Dutchman takes less cutting but its no fun when the piece starts toward the lay and then stops when the Dman closes. I asked Gord this way back when but didn't get an answer.
 
Just go try it in no risk situations.


You undercut the dutchman. Another way to think of this is that you cut the first kerf (front) of a snap cut, add a snipe/ kicker (slope cut, preserving the dutchmen). Last undercut the hinge (which is set up with a full dutchmen, maybe an inch to three deep).

Three cuts, no additional effort. Probably, to pull a number out from my ear, 20% more cuttting, zero percent more hauling up gear and tying up groundie(s).

I have dumped good sized logs off with this (easily 10' by 20", having double cut with my 192t (so light compared to an MS361. This was back in the day). Don't cut too deep. Be extra away of barber chair prone trees that have stood back up somewhat after having the head weight off, as the internal forces have changed a lot.

There have been times with small chunks, say 4-6' tall, that I 'd cut a very shallow angle face cut beyond the Center of Gravity (more cross-cutting and efficient) , a full width, deep dutchman, and back strap release. Larger pieces get more of a wide open face cut for a bit more directional control.

MAGIC CUT is very aptly named. We have more straight up trees than less, here. I can chunk down a tree with a high TIP in an adjacent tree in no time with a 361. Probably half as much time or less than pulling it with a rope, plus I'm letting the groundie have a break or work on other things, as aforementioned.

Try it!


P.S. Your face may need to be deeper. Try a humboldt. I've only ever had the log stop when the face closed without enough power to snap the hinge, in which case it has an obvious lean and an easy access finishing cut of the hinge.


Why would you use an open face with hinge rather than no hinge when you have enough directional control? Like slash cutting a little tree, rather than facing and back cutting?
 
With a normal open face, the weigh of the tree or the rope pulling is here to brake the hinge's fibers. They are extremely strong and only a heavy load or a hard pull with a good leverage can free the piece.
A short log, even a fat one, represents almost no load at all (from the braking fibers point of view). So you have to make a extremely thin hinge if you want that the log frees itself. Firstly, it's difficult to do accurately, at least for me. Secondly, when the notch closes, if a side holds longer than the other, the log is pulled to the side of the intended lay.
With the magic cut, the dutchman gives a rest to the log and acts like a false hinge, allowing you some time to finish the cut. Sure, the log stops moving when it touches the duchman, but it can go nowhere because it's supported by the full diameter on the dutchman's edge. The hinge can be cut partially, the log stays there, slightly bend over, no move at all to the side.
When the hinge is completely cut (by a straight cut or a mismatch cut), the log rolls over the dutchman's edge, takes some speed and pass the trunk's side straight in line with the lay. No parasitic movement to the side.

In fact, don't look at that as a dutchman, but really as a big snipe, which is actually exactly what it is.

OOOps, way too slow to write my answer.
 
I wouldn't call it a snipe cuz a snipe is added to an already open face. Unless you want to call a kerf the least-open face box possible.

I'll have to try it from the ground, surprising I haven't tried it already. I do many cuts past COG but have an open face on them to keep it simple.
 
Yes Kevin. Me too.

I had an idea what is going on in my wee brain but if someone is any good on coral draw or some other simple art package it would be greatly appreciated.

I generally just do a step cut and stick a small snipe in the direction of the dz. quick push and it's a goodun'
 
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