The Official Work Pictures Thread

Forgot to say, that's TreeSmith climbing. I tease him about his baby saws a good bit. :P He needed a longer lanyard when he was using the bigger saw, but one more cut and it was done so he toughed it out.
 
I'll clip a big saw right on the hook. I like it a hand's reach away. I've never been a fan of long lanyards.
 

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Anytime I see a big saw like that and the climber is off the ground...it's a big tree to me. I don't like big saws in trees...I don't gotz the guns you got!!
 

That is a massive stump that is well ALAPed! What's the purpose of the cross hatch?



Nice to see you and Scott working together Carl. Been quite the while since you posted some tree work :)
Damn big tree Rich. Hella saw hand abuse for certain.


Here's another job from last month or so, I've got several videos on youtube I need to make public.

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One of my favs...

That's a dang huge pick. Yeah... I find that the crane removal guys usually prefer a bar that goes all the way through the stem, for some reason that I could never understand. Maybe it's just the mental satisfaction of totally KNOWING that absolutely ALL of the wood fibers are 100% severed. One little freakin pine fiber will hold the freakin world from lifting.

You know another reason I love you Butch... is because you work nice and tight to the stem. You see all these young jackasses nowadays who like to work with all kinds of slack between them and the tree, but then they're all plumb tuckered out after, like, their third tree. I feel like, "awwwhh... Ya all tuckered out there kido? Well, maybe try loosing some of that 'easy-flippin' slack, and conserve some of your energy." Dang kids these days.

I dunno... Maybe everyone's back is different. Maybe it's harder on a guy's back to work closer to the stem? I'm being totally serious: I literally don't know. Maybe THAT'S why my back hurts so much. :lol:
 
But you need some room in front of you if you want to turn the saw around the trunk during the cut. Even more if you have to pull the big saw with a big bar out of the kerf, the arms are really short if you are close to the trunk. A fat willow with the 3120xp and a 44" bar come to my mind...not really fun this time.
 
Sure! Just let out your lanyard when you need some wiggle room... cinch back up when done! :beer:

It just never made sense for me to have my ass stuck all out there...
 
See... that's what I'm talking about.

Marc: I perfectly understand your point about having to make the odd cut with some big, huge guide-bar now and again... and like Butch said... slack out, and then suck back in. Just blows me away to see all these young kids pouring sweat out of their foreheads because they're working so inefficiently. Remember Bixler?... that guy worked way too far out from the Pine stem, imho.
 
Maybe it comes from the fear to gaff out. The more upright you are, the more chances you get to slip.
Perhaps that's less a concern with the very thick barks and the tree gaffs, but with thin bark and/or short gaffs, that's real (at least for me). I'm far from comfortable/confident with the spurs, as I don't trust them at all, so I didn't experiment much. For me, gaffing up 40' is a huge climb.
The way they teach the spur climbing is to keep a good angle between your legs and the trunk. That aims the spikes more toward the trunk's center and put your weight on them within the same axis, instead of downward.
The rule of thumb given in the book is the length of the forearm and the fist, between the trunk and the belly. Legs straight, with the torso in line with the legs (not ass sticking out). You have to adapt it to accommodate the lean of course. That gives some room to work the gear and the chainsaw, reduces the risk of gaffing out, but that's not too far, avoiding being out of reach and keeping reasonable the load on the legs and the back.
At least this spacing works well enough for me. As a bonus, I appreciate that it allows me to have a look down to position my feet.

And hard on the back.
The legs take a serious beating too by the leverage, especially at the hips.
 
Practice, practice, practice. Use a high-TIP and practice. Get some time with little spur-outs. No big deal.

Gaff profile is important.

How people get by without good gaff-work, IDK.
 
The human body posture has evolved to support an upright spinal column. The farther you get away from that on gaffs, the harder it is on your whole body.

Not to mention, the farther out you are leaning away from the bole, the more work it is on your upper body muscles (chest, arms, and hands) to haul yourself close enough to the tree for every single flip up of your lanyard (or flip line, or safety) to clear the back side and move. A much more tiring process than it should be, and that leads to fatigue earlier than need be, and that leads to accidents that needn't be.

If you can't spur climb correctly, then you shouldn't be calling yourself a tree climber, imltho.

Of course, the same must be said for a plethora of other climbing techniques :D.
 
Find a suitable tree, and with a belay-line to an appropriate anchor (SRT device on tree or someone with a saddle), practice climbing on spurs without a lanyard or climbing-line.
 
I drool every time I see that Hi Lift Carl...in my dreams I would have one like that :)
 
Find a suitable tree, and with a belay-line to an appropriate anchor (SRT device on tree or someone with a saddle), practice climbing on spurs without a lanyard or climbing-line.

Not my advice. But that's ok...Sean and I do a lot of things differently, and we both get it done.

Learn by practice to properly use your flip line and you'll be better served. Find a good spur climber (which might be far different than simply an experienced one :)) to watch you and give pointers.
 
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