Back cut higher than face?

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Greg, do me a favour.

Get a long piece of dowel rod.

Then cut two pieces, one about 10" long and the other 30" long.

Then take a firm grasp of each end of the dowels and break them by hand.



After you've done that, tell me again how it takes more force to break a short hinge than a long one!
 
Stig, I think he more on about ease of getting a tree to commit rather than which is stronger.
 
I'm thinking more in the line of bendability than strenght.

Guess I could have phrased that better.
 
Yeah, it is interesting how many different factors influence that one portion of timber felling when you stop to think about it
 
If you can get a tree to fall easier with a higher stump shot than a level one, show me proof I'll be the first to spread the good word.
Greg

I agree with that.. it takes more energy to trip the hinge, because you have to split the wood fibers the length of the differential... that can take some doing, especially if they are down in the trunk flare, as anyone who has split firewood knows.. This is somewhat species dependent, and another important variable is how much pulling (or pushing) power there is to trip the hinge. Once the tree goes, its up for debate if the stump shot offers any more control (stronger hinge). I think that is also species dependent, with the better hinging wood like elm and hickory hinging stronger from stump shot, but the poorer hinging wood like tulip not faring so well. What often happens with a high back cut for the inexperienced is the added resistance to the hinge (from the need to split the fibers) keeps the hinge from tripping, (especially when there is limited force taking the tree to the face) and the faller tends to overcut the backcut, taking out the hinge completely or at least making it thinner than it should be, thus losing strength in the hinge and possibly causing saw snatch. I AM working on a video to demonstrate this principle. When a fall requires directional precision, I keep stumpshot to 1/2-1" max. Or if I AM plunging, I'll keep it at level or within an inch.
 
Greg, do me a favour.

Get a long piece of dowel rod.

Then cut two pieces, one about 10" long and the other 30" long.

Then take a firm grasp of each end of the dowels and break them by hand.



After you've done that, tell me again how it takes more force to break a short hinge than a long one!

Stig, I'm not disputing that it takes more force to break a short hinge then a long one.... Did I write that in there?

what I thought I read in this thread was that the tree will tip easier by placing a higher stump shot, instead of level.I obviously read wrong, at least I think I was, and went off on a tangent.
 
I must have misread you completely.
I thought you argued that a level stump made it easier to tip the tree over.

I think this is where I go hide behind the fact that English is not my native tounge:lol:
 
Now I'm lost in my non native tounge and I have to read again all the thing to get the subtleties of who wanted to say what.
:shifty:
 
If a level stump makes it harder to tip the tree over, then it stands to reason that it would also make it harder to wedge over. I don't believe that is the case, or is it? With trees you have the weight factor when positive lean begins, that is different from breaking sticks, so easier or harder might be relative at one point and change after another.....it seems.
 
Translation wasn't necessary. I'm fluint in Typonese. :D
 
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