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My luck i would trip and spike my head on it or something. Years ago (before i was born i think) we had an ironworker fall from height here into some rebar on a bridge job, terrible to even think about :( that's why they require those rubber end stoppers on them now, at least pad the pointy...

Did you mean rings?

And a block has a better bend radius with far less friction, allowing more of the rope to be loaded, spreading the load over more than just the end.

Blocks are better on the rope anyways, efficiency is a thing. I'm kinda surprised they haven't made a giant radius one yet, one that was actually designed to give the recommended bend radius and support the rope better, basically a non spinning pulley shape. More bulky yes but better for rigging...

That forwarder setup is so cool!!!

I always figured about 500 lbs per yard.

You're still tied in with your main climb line, you can just toss it and it'll hold you so you can climb over there. No longer are you limited to where you can physically climb to, or the routes needed to go there, you simply toss, ascend while letting out your climb line as needed, then lanyard...

So that's my problem, nice. Thx man!

I try to pin it to my chest/beer gut, that seems to help me :lol:. Your saw has to be cutting good and straight, i find when i hand sharpen several times the cut will start curving right in the cut (silver maples really seem to accentuate that too), so i gotta use a grinder every now and then to...

This could be you.... Internet pic.

Guys with cold hands, have you tried wearing nitrile gloves (the surgical/mechanics kind) under your gloves? It adds an surprising amount of warmth with minimal dexterity loss, and if you need to use handwarmers they hold them right on you so they work better. Thicker gloves might be another...

Lots of the older caterpillar production floors use wood pavers, excellent shop floor. Much easier on you than concrete, they just don't like water very much, a line will leak and it'll swell up the floor. They use 4x4s on edge bedded in sand.

Oh I'm not doubting you, I'm 2k miles away! Kinda crazy i drive that far round trip to go to Florida, with the kids too lol

I was wondering the same thing, and guessing that's why he didn't just flop the thing, right?

A handful of skids doesn't weigh thousands of pounds, and they're not always needed. But sometimes they are. You never drive on hard surface then place a stabilizer in the yard? Don't own plywood or mats so you can get your truck places it couldn't simply drive thru the grass to? Never work in...

The pad goes on top, the cribbing distributes the load to the ground. Longer gives you more area, which distributes the load over a larger area, which is needed for weaker soil conditions. Thinking an outrigger pad is all you need for all ground conditions is simply incorrect and dangerous.

I like the 4x6, more versatile. Not a crane outrigger, but you get the point, since it's the work pic thread. You want the cribbing to go past the outrigger pad, you're going up so you need to be wider. You'll want full layers not a box crib, but don't underestimate the importance or utility of...

That's the thing, you have little chunks, which are unsuitable for cribbing stuff like that, you need longer pieces that can spread the load out. If you had actual skids, say 4 feet long, you'll get a bunch more on there than filling a toolbox. Lots of cranes around here run angle "boxes" of...

Weld some angle on top of the toolbox, then you can stack cribbing there and just bungee it down.

Same, so much so i try to teach it to apprentices if we're using a rope enough. Often even tied with a bight, very handy knot for so many different things.