• Brock Mayo's Avatar
    07-03-2018
    Murphy, I never thought I'd hear the Humboldt being promoted from the east coast! I can't imagine feeling as good about an inch or two of stump shot on a conventional in that situation. A couple questions for you... why the vertical speedline on the last cut? And, if you were doing that same job tomorrow, would you make those same cuts? Thanks for the update forestkeeper, reading Kenny's posts has become a real hobby of mine. I do pretty good these days, but he always loses me on the last paragraph.
    76 replies | 2288 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    06-24-2018
    For sure, need more Kenny on this one!
    76 replies | 2288 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    06-24-2018
    That's interesting Murphy. I've heard an argument made, using the spar push back of a narrower face cut to counter the forward force of the block catching the wood. I don't think this guy goes 45 degrees, but argued that the open face is already pulling forward on the tree when the hinge breaks and then the wood catching on the block pulls even more... Hinge thickness seems to be a key factor as well. Cutting tops is not a time I want a thick hinge.
    76 replies | 2288 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    05-03-2018
    Man, Just started looking at the nylon highway links. So many crazy bowlines and looks to be some good break testing results of progress capture devices. The tandem prusik seems hard to beat...
    22 replies | 952 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    05-01-2018
    Hey, can I get some instruction on how to properly Jed a stump? Sean that blower trick sounds awesome!
    314 replies | 7734 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    04-27-2018
    Thanks Kenny. When your talking about the bowline with half hitches, would you use the end of the blue half inch stable braid, or some other anchor rope? That would be my normal tie off, but I was worried about the weak half hitches and the square corners on the beam... I had not thought about grabbing some bigger stable braid and tying it off. I've never used tenex that way, but I'm guessing it would also work tied in a half hitch to a running bowline? Great license plate!
    22 replies | 952 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    04-20-2018
    Wow, thanks again TreeSpyder. Makes sense balancing the beam closer to the center. You can't see them but I did thread a couple gate hinges/pole step kind of lags into the predrilled holes on the beams so if the sings slid they couldn't slide off. I was surprised, neither sling moved at all, and I picked the beam up vertically off the one spar. I'm hoping to find a couple eye bolts that fit the drilled holes to clean up the anchor points a bit. The boating rat tail info, was exactly what I was curious about. Also, I remember finding your hitch pictures about a decade ago when I was first looking into advanced hitches. The color change at the one end of the hitch cord is key to figuring out what is going on. Thanks for all your work over the years! I think Butch might need to start developing a TreeSpyder translator app. I'm getting better, but I think I'm still only comprehending 80%. Thanks again everyone!
    22 replies | 952 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    04-19-2018
    Thanks guys. I'll go with the pulley. Seems like the right sized ring floating between the hitch and the over sized block could do the tending job if needed. Not as solid as the right sized pulley though.
    22 replies | 952 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    04-17-2018
    Thanks all, I've been wondering if a french prusik or VT would be better than a standard prusik for heavy static loading? Not necessarily with my situation with 1120lbs, but with heavier loads. All the friction hitch break testing I've run across was more geared toward climbing setups. Thanks treespyder for the detailed response. I never would've thought about the tenex flatness equating to more grab. Makes sense... You did loose me on the last paragraph about Fore-planning? Kevin, any good ways to insure that the hitch can't get sucked into the block? I'm wondering if a pulley with tighter cheek plates would be a better option? I would hate to have my backup wreck the whole show...
    22 replies | 952 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    04-16-2018
    Nice, thanks guys. I've always thought of tenex hitch cords as not the best due to the lower melting point. But I guess that soft hand creates such a good grab that heat isn't the problem. I'll give it a go!
    22 replies | 952 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    04-16-2018
    Hey all, I'm planning on using a portable winch (PCW5000) to move some laminated beams across a creek for a trail bridge rebuild. I'm looking for a friction hitch backup to self tend at the ground redirect going to the winch. This will most likely be a 5/8 inch block. I'm wondering what the strongest friction hitch is, and some recommended hitch cord that would work well with 1/2 inch stable braid? Also, how to get it to self tend smoothly with the larger opening on the block? The beams weigh 1120 lbs. Or, is there a better way to back up the winch? Thanks! Brock
    22 replies | 952 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    03-18-2018
    Thanks Sean, great pictures!
    49 replies | 6071 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    03-04-2018
    Thanks Sean, I tried 5/16 a while back and had the same results
    49 replies | 6071 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    03-03-2018
    Is 3/8 inch tenex the right size if you want to fit the tubing down the center?
    49 replies | 6071 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    02-17-2018
    Thanks guys! Yeah I've always heard the open face to be the best when you need it. The "magic cut" is what made me wonder the other day. I was watching how far the piece would jump away from the tree, not a problem with a good person on the rope, but probably less than ideal. That cut is the single biggest time saver for me Sean! I should probably be sending you or Gord money everytime I use it, which is about every vertical spar. Thanks!
    76 replies | 2288 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    02-17-2018
    Hey all, I'm sure this has been discussed before, but what is your preferred facecut when you are negative rigging? Maybe the question should be what is the safest notch? I've heard some theories about a narrow notch pushing the spar away from the rigging and balancing the load better on impact, but I've also heard the open face is the safest...
    76 replies | 2288 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    12-01-2017
    "I've spotted 45* downward, when dropping logs off a spar for mill logs/ machine handling. I wanted them as long as possibly, without crushing a shed at the end of the lay. Its more accurate than a groundie's eyeball, or mine, especially from up in a tree." Hey Sean, can you explain this a bit more? Are you using the smart phone clino to measure where the spar will hit when cut from the ground?
    62 replies | 2384 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    11-29-2017
    Thanks Nick! I know very little about splicing, but it seems that the lock stitching requirements are more based on tradition than actual testing. I agree that a nice whiplock is a great finish to a splice, but if I could buy that same splice for half the price without the whipping (and not die using it), I probably would. I think the first rule ANSI should adopt is: "If more than one needle is broken during the lock stitching process, the splice requires no further stitching"
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    11-26-2017
    Thanks guys, yeah I normally make my cut around two firewood rounds high. The homeowner wanted to mill that log, so I cut it low. Will cutting off the corners of the hinge help with root pull, if needing to cut low? I normally preserve the corners at all costs, but wondering what precautions you all take when you have to cut low to the ground?
    320 replies | 32933 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    11-26-2017
    Just finished page 30 of this post. Took me quite a while, but I learned a lot! There's probably an existing post on the subject, but I was wondering if someone could explain how and why a low stump on certain species will produce root pull or fiber pull off the desired lay? Recently I had a port orford cedar spar stall when the face closed, and then rotated 10 to 20 degrees to one side as it slowly broke the hinge wood. It might have had a hidden knot, but the hinge was pretty darn straight and even. I figured it was just the low stump and maybe the stalled hinge break? Any tricks or things to look for when cutting low to the ground?
    320 replies | 32933 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    11-17-2017
    Can you post some of those diagrams/pictures from the original post. They don't seem to show up now days...
    6 replies | 493 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    11-06-2017
    Thanks for the feedback. I had a hunch you were messing with me Brocky, I'm a bit slow sometimes :)
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    11-04-2017
    Not quite the NICCS. My stitching doesn't go very far down the rope, not sure if that is a big deal? Brocky, I'm just asking about the lock stitching (white thread) you might have to squint to see it.
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    10-29-2017
    What do you think of this pattern?
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    10-01-2017
    Thanks Sean. I'm having a hard time picturing what you described. Is it invisible just because it's the same color and follows the rope's strands? I do like to follow the ropes strands instead of just stitching straight down the rope, but didn't know if that was okay to do? Is it important that the stitches go straight through the rope or can they be at 45 degree angles?
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    09-25-2017
    Thanks guys. I cant seem to find Nick's invisible lock stitch. Ran into some old broken links and whatnot. I can see how passing through the rope at 45 degree angles would make it possible to reinsert the needle at the same exit point and never see the stitching... Is that the invisible method or is there more to it? Thanks for the help!
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    09-22-2017
    Thanks Flushcut. I've been seeing quite a few lock stitches that are basically the first half of the samson instructions. Seems like plenty to me, I cant imagine pulling a splice apart even with just two stitches through it. Nobody wants to tell a guy how to make his stitches invisible???
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    09-19-2017
    Hey all, I've read all the old posts I could find on securing a finished splice. I'm wondering what is needed at a minimum? It seems the samson lock stitch that passes through the rope ~12 times is way over kill compared to a whiplock, that only passes through the rope 4 or 5 times? Ignoring any legal concerns of not doing what a manufacturer calls for, what is really needed? Also, I read mention of an invisible lock stitch... Is it fact or fiction? Cheers! Brock
    24 replies | 2635 view(s)
  • Brock Mayo's Avatar
    09-04-2017
    Hey Burnham, Was the blue water version made out of rope or webbing? Thanks greengreer, that does make sense. Cheers!
    4 replies | 520 view(s)
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