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  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    By the way, in response to your "want to come in above "a guy with a pickup and chainsaw"", I wish I had all the money in one big sack that I made in the simpler days. Like I said, I'd drive 170 miles to flop those trees for $1000 in a heartbeat. And I'd come in my pickup, with my chainsaw. I'd likely bring three, along with three throw lines, a few ropes, and a block or two. I did a couple of jobs years ago out of the trunk of a Saturn sedan. The cash in hand afterward was all the balm my pride might have needed for working out of the trunk of a car....
    44 replies | 617 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    I'd drive up there and drop them for $1000, and it's around 170 miles for me....
    44 replies | 617 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    In the second pic, the tree in discussion is fourth from the right. The service pole is a reference, as they tend to be 6"-8" in diameter...the lid of the propane tank is a reference (typically 14"-16" diameter)....the AC unit is a reference....my point was mainly in response to Jonny's post: "It's already a skinny tree, so I doubt there'll be much wood to allow for a thick hinge." I don't think that tree is so skinny that hinge failure is a concern. Far from it. And yes, the line on the heavy-leaner was acting as a pretensioned guy line to not only help tip the tree in the desired direction, but, in conjunction with the tension of the limb, act as a lever to help prevent hinge failure due to the hollow.
    44 replies | 617 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    We cut a HEAVILY-leaning ash tree the other day. It had two main forks, Primary slightly leaning, slightly lower one leaning very heavily to the west, with yet another off of it growing out at around 45*, also to the west. Fall had to be due north. I took the lowest one off, and set two pull lines, one in each fork. I put a block on the line from the one on the heavy leaner, through which I double-lined a rope back to my portable winch, which was set at about 15* out from directly behind the lean. This enabled me to flex that fork hard against the lean. The line from the most vertical fork went through a tail block, then a re-direct block, and back to the Boxer. I snugged the winch tight, snugged the Boxer tight, notched, back-cut, bumped the winch a tad, then used the Boxer to rip it over. Went smooth as butter. Without either of the lines, I could not have pulled it into the lay as it was hollow, and hinge was totally unreliable.
    44 replies | 617 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    Gary, the difference is, that in this instance, the pull SHOULD be directly opposite the lean, so barring rope or TIP failure, there is no way that limb is going to be a hindrance. Each to hs own, but I like simple/fast when possible. As long as the pull line is set at least two forks above the long limb, I see no problem. As to what Ryan said, I'd say that tree is at least ~14" at knee-height...more than enough for a substantial hinge.
    44 replies | 617 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    Why? Assuming there is no compromised wood in the few feet above that long limb, there is no reason not to expect the limb to go with the tree. If I were at all concerned with the limb, I would set a line on the limb out a few feet, then run it through the second fork above, thereby using the limb itself to lever the tree over. Second line in top if preferred... The biggest concern I'd have with that tree is the amount of pull distance required before the hinge broke, insuring that the entire tree was committed to the lay and that limb didn't cause roll/deflection due to huge failure if the pull ran out too quickly.
    44 replies | 617 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Day Ago
    Looks like 1-1/2 hours and $400.....to put them on the ground....clean-up will be extry....
    44 replies | 617 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Week Ago
    Are the Defiance actions built on modified/customized 700s, or are they built from the ground up?
    617 replies | 32335 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    I saw several YouTube vids regarding the Katrina confiscations, and read quite a bit about it as well. Hard to imagine a red-blooded American taking another's firearms when he had done nothing amiss with said firearm....and even more difficult to believe the folks handed them over.... There was a lot that went on in the Katrina aftermath that warranted taking names and paying visits afterward....
    617 replies | 32335 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    treesmith replied to a thread HUNTING 2017 in The Rec Room
    That's where I try to shoot all my deer. Absolutely no meat damage, and some room for error at longer ranges and with wind drift.
    172 replies | 8774 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-14-2018
    I bought a new MS 250 last week. I learned a long time ago that using a smaller/lighter saw for limbing while cleaning up makes for less wear on the back/shoulders at the end of the day.
    46 replies | 1752 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-08-2018
    I favor a Munter hitch (with 3-4 half hitches), as I often tension by hand as I'm tying off, and it always unties easily.
    55 replies | 1616 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-08-2018
    I have used the Maasdam many times, and will use it again, no doubt, but I find it painfully slow, especially when gearing it down to a 3:1. I use the truck/Gehl/Boxer 90% of the time, simply for the speed of pull.
    39 replies | 1040 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-07-2018
    I drove a 1995 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 for 13 years that had a 5-speed manual. I bypassed the clutch-starter switch right off the bat. When pulling a leaner, I'd pretension, notch and start back cut, then just lean in and wind the starter a second to further tension it (in 4-LO). I loved that manual tranny for pulling trees.
    55 replies | 1616 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-10-2018
    Ah...thought you meant you had to unload manually at the woodyard. I've heard of that in the olden days.
    40 replies | 1675 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-09-2018
    Unloading? Never heard of that! They unloaded it for you at the woodyard here.
    40 replies | 1675 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-09-2018
    They closed the 5' pulpwood yards around here years ago. I used to have several guys I could call who would come get any kind of wood but hickory (not sure why but the pulp yard would not take hickory). My first pulpwood truck had a rear loader. The second had a split rack with the loader between the two racks, roughly 60/40 split. My last "log" truck had an actual Big Stick loader with a log heel. Cadillac....hydraulic boom!
    40 replies | 1675 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-09-2018
    I had one that looked a lot like that, Butch. Once you mastered it, it was rather efficient. My last one had a collar that turned the boom for you. Really helped when working alone.
    40 replies | 1675 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-09-2018
    Not sure how it would fit our needs, but I once contemplated an I-beam/trolley mounted in the roof center of my chip bed, to use somewhat like a septic tank truck. Chain hoist or small winch to do the lifting.
    40 replies | 1675 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    08-25-2018
    Kenny's posts sound like Spock.....all knowledge...no emotion....
    27 replies | 1168 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    08-03-2018
    So THAT'S why you're weird, Murph!
    178 replies | 11434 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    06-22-2018
    I use ropes and wedges together in big/leaning trees. After tensioning the line, I notch and start back cut. Once there is sufficient room (not to hit wedge with chain), I drive a wedge in reasonably tight, add tension, then continue the backcut. The wedge is a sure sign whether or not the tree is moving. I've cut big trees before where there was a lot of tension on the line, and there was not enough movement in the tree you could detect it by eye, but that loose wedge told me it was moving.
    49 replies | 1572 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    04-19-2018
    A large washer floating on the line right behind the prusik will help prevent that, plus, the flat surface of the water gives a more efficient advance of the prusik.
    22 replies | 1193 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    04-16-2018
    treesmith replied to a thread Gecko feedback in Climbing Forum
    Thanks everyone. I'll look a little closer at them. I think 7-1/2 hours is the longest I've been in the hooks at one run (not standing in them the whole time, mind you, but up the tree). Four to five hours is rather common. I've often wondered if the Geckos would make it more bearable.
    17 replies | 1066 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    04-16-2018
    I?ve been climbing on Buckingham steel hooks for over 32 years now. About to get them paid for, so I thought I?d look into something lighter. Who all has tried the Gecko Ultra Lights, and what are your thoughts? They?re pricey for sure. I have my original set of Bucks (the ones with the lower strap the wraps around the shank, and a newer pair with the split ring lower strap. Two other sets of Buckinghams with replaceable hooks, and one pair of Buckingham Titaniums. Also have a pair of Klein aluminum climbers. They?re all about the same, but I?ve read some rave reviews on the Geckos. So....do you like ?em, love ?em, hate ?em....?
    17 replies | 1066 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    03-15-2018
    You'll look forward to 80' ascents once you get the Wraptor!
    83 replies | 3232 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    03-06-2018
    treesmith replied to a thread New stump wheel in Gear Forum
    I've decided on the Greenteeth Quadwheel. Now to save up the money to pay for it!
    10 replies | 608 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    02-26-2018
    treesmith replied to a thread New stump wheel in Gear Forum
    I did that on the stock wheel on my old machine prior to the Greenwheel. Lost a (Greenteeth) pocket while grinding, so had to take the opposite off to balance. Wound up taking off three more sets, so I was running twelve teeth instead of twenty. I guess my gripe with the Razor wheel is cost of teeth compared to Greenteeth. (As well as ease of replacement).
    10 replies | 608 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    02-25-2018
    treesmith started a thread New stump wheel in Gear Forum
    I bought a new (demo) grinder last year...2016 Carlton 5014, Kubota 44-HP diesel, blade, remote, Razor wheel, etc. Love the machine....like the wheel...hate the tooth cost. Thirty-six teeth @ $15 each is a pill to swallow. I had switched my old grinder to a Greenwheel about ten months before taking the plunge for a new grinder, and it really sped up the grinding. For the new grinder, I'm looking at a Greenteeth Quadwheel, or possibly an Alpine Rhino wheel. Anyone here have any experience with the two? The Quad has 12 teeth total, at $10 each, with each capable of one rotation, yielding (hypothetically), 24 teeth (essentially two sets) for $120. I haven't been able to find pricing on the Rhino wheel online. Seems you have to call or submit a request to get a price.
    10 replies | 608 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    02-25-2018
    I always do one strand one way, two the other way. Makes a neater eye.
    29 replies | 1384 view(s)
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  1. I'm about 40 miles northwest of Tuscaloosa. Between Reform and Millport.
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    Where at in Alabama are u from? I'm in Birmingham...But bout to move back to the coast here in 3weeks...
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September 27, 1967 (51)
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