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  • treesmith's Avatar
    22 Hours Ago
    The oldest saw in my truck currently is a 192T that I bought (used) in 2009 I believe. Second oldest is a 200T bought new in 2011. They proceed from there. I have put new carbs on two 200Ts several times, as the ethanol gums them up. The 2011 200T has not been used a lot, as I use another 200T with 14" bar most of the time, but it still fires up when called on. I'd guess the leading cause of failure in chain saws (or any two-cycle apparatus) is failure in fuel/oil mix. I buy my oil at Walmart by the gallon, and refill my bottles as needed. I run around 24:1-32:1. I have never run 50:1 in anything of mine. Another tree guy near me has had several saws fail in the last year. I'll wager his guys mix the gas and mess up. I've seen boat motors that were over 30 years old still crank and run. Two-cycles are long-lived if taken care of. Of course use counts the most. I have three 200Ts that have never tasted fuel yet.....
    45 replies | 487 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Week Ago
    I understand what you mean, but it uses the ENTIRE line.....the line passes through itself in its entirety, just as if you girth hitched a sling to a tree, but instead of two parallel legs, one goes through the other. I'd say a whoopee sling would be stronger than a single leg dead eye sling of the same material if the tied sling was attached single-leg around the tree.
    24 replies | 649 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    1 Week Ago
    I was hoping for an explanation as to how his apparatus was "more accurate" than the APTA, but I guess he was too busy to type out the essay in reply.....
    104 replies | 2130 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    How so? How can a tied sling be stronger than a whoopee if it's the same material?
    24 replies | 649 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    Thanks, Cory. I missed that thread. I am wishing I'd made it a whoopee instead, as it's slow to tie/untie every time it's moved when blocking down big wood. The rigging thimble did nicely the one time I've used it. We rigged down some 400#-500# red oak chunks, and it did well.
    24 replies | 649 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    2 Weeks Ago
    I bought a set of the large rings last year, and spliced me up a set on a length of 3/4" Tenex Tec. I have used them a few times, and can tell a difference in the shock-loading of large pieces vs using a block. I know a lot of folks have gotten into using rings, and wondered if there is any drawback to them. I'm pondering getting another set (likely medium this time), and splicing a double set onto a whoopee sling. Here's the one I spliced up last year, along with the rigging thimble I spliced up. Any thoughts? Pros? Cons?
    24 replies | 649 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    By the way, in response to your "want to come in above "a guy with a pickup and chainsaw"", I wish I had all the money in one big sack that I made in the simpler days. Like I said, I'd drive 170 miles to flop those trees for $1000 in a heartbeat. And I'd come in my pickup, with my chainsaw. I'd likely bring three, along with three throw lines, a few ropes, and a block or two. I did a couple of jobs years ago out of the trunk of a Saturn sedan. The cash in hand afterward was all the balm my pride might have needed for working out of the trunk of a car....
    56 replies | 1448 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    I'd drive up there and drop them for $1000, and it's around 170 miles for me....
    56 replies | 1448 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    In the second pic, the tree in discussion is fourth from the right. The service pole is a reference, as they tend to be 6"-8" in diameter...the lid of the propane tank is a reference (typically 14"-16" diameter)....the AC unit is a reference....my point was mainly in response to Jonny's post: "It's already a skinny tree, so I doubt there'll be much wood to allow for a thick hinge." I don't think that tree is so skinny that hinge failure is a concern. Far from it. And yes, the line on the heavy-leaner was acting as a pretensioned guy line to not only help tip the tree in the desired direction, but, in conjunction with the tension of the limb, act as a lever to help prevent hinge failure due to the hollow.
    56 replies | 1448 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    We cut a HEAVILY-leaning ash tree the other day. It had two main forks, Primary slightly leaning, slightly lower one leaning very heavily to the west, with yet another off of it growing out at around 45*, also to the west. Fall had to be due north. I took the lowest one off, and set two pull lines, one in each fork. I put a block on the line from the one on the heavy leaner, through which I double-lined a rope back to my portable winch, which was set at about 15* out from directly behind the lean. This enabled me to flex that fork hard against the lean. The line from the most vertical fork went through a tail block, then a re-direct block, and back to the Boxer. I snugged the winch tight, snugged the Boxer tight, notched, back-cut, bumped the winch a tad, then used the Boxer to rip it over. Went smooth as butter. Without either of the lines, I could not have pulled it into the lay as it was hollow, and hinge was totally unreliable.
    56 replies | 1448 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    Gary, the difference is, that in this instance, the pull SHOULD be directly opposite the lean, so barring rope or TIP failure, there is no way that limb is going to be a hindrance. Each to hs own, but I like simple/fast when possible. As long as the pull line is set at least two forks above the long limb, I see no problem. As to what Ryan said, I'd say that tree is at least ~14" at knee-height...more than enough for a substantial hinge.
    56 replies | 1448 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    Why? Assuming there is no compromised wood in the few feet above that long limb, there is no reason not to expect the limb to go with the tree. If I were at all concerned with the limb, I would set a line on the limb out a few feet, then run it through the second fork above, thereby using the limb itself to lever the tree over. Second line in top if preferred... The biggest concern I'd have with that tree is the amount of pull distance required before the hinge broke, insuring that the entire tree was committed to the lay and that limb didn't cause roll/deflection due to huge failure if the pull ran out too quickly.
    56 replies | 1448 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    4 Weeks Ago
    Looks like 1-1/2 hours and $400.....to put them on the ground....clean-up will be extry....
    56 replies | 1448 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-23-2018
    treesmith replied to a thread HUNTING 2017 in The Rec Room
    That's where I try to shoot all my deer. Absolutely no meat damage, and some room for error at longer ranges and with wind drift.
    180 replies | 9984 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-14-2018
    I bought a new MS 250 last week. I learned a long time ago that using a smaller/lighter saw for limbing while cleaning up makes for less wear on the back/shoulders at the end of the day.
    46 replies | 1906 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-08-2018
    I favor a Munter hitch (with 3-4 half hitches), as I often tension by hand as I'm tying off, and it always unties easily.
    55 replies | 2027 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-08-2018
    I have used the Maasdam many times, and will use it again, no doubt, but I find it painfully slow, especially when gearing it down to a 3:1. I use the truck/Gehl/Boxer 90% of the time, simply for the speed of pull.
    39 replies | 1310 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    12-07-2018
    I drove a 1995 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 for 13 years that had a 5-speed manual. I bypassed the clutch-starter switch right off the bat. When pulling a leaner, I'd pretension, notch and start back cut, then just lean in and wind the starter a second to further tension it (in 4-LO). I loved that manual tranny for pulling trees.
    55 replies | 2027 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-10-2018
    Ah...thought you meant you had to unload manually at the woodyard. I've heard of that in the olden days.
    40 replies | 1817 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-09-2018
    Unloading? Never heard of that! They unloaded it for you at the woodyard here.
    40 replies | 1817 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-09-2018
    They closed the 5' pulpwood yards around here years ago. I used to have several guys I could call who would come get any kind of wood but hickory (not sure why but the pulp yard would not take hickory). My first pulpwood truck had a rear loader. The second had a split rack with the loader between the two racks, roughly 60/40 split. My last "log" truck had an actual Big Stick loader with a log heel. Cadillac....hydraulic boom!
    40 replies | 1817 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-09-2018
    I had one that looked a lot like that, Butch. Once you mastered it, it was rather efficient. My last one had a collar that turned the boom for you. Really helped when working alone.
    40 replies | 1817 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    09-09-2018
    Not sure how it would fit our needs, but I once contemplated an I-beam/trolley mounted in the roof center of my chip bed, to use somewhat like a septic tank truck. Chain hoist or small winch to do the lifting.
    40 replies | 1817 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    08-25-2018
    Kenny's posts sound like Spock.....all knowledge...no emotion....
    27 replies | 1299 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    08-03-2018
    So THAT'S why you're weird, Murph!
    178 replies | 12628 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    06-22-2018
    I use ropes and wedges together in big/leaning trees. After tensioning the line, I notch and start back cut. Once there is sufficient room (not to hit wedge with chain), I drive a wedge in reasonably tight, add tension, then continue the backcut. The wedge is a sure sign whether or not the tree is moving. I've cut big trees before where there was a lot of tension on the line, and there was not enough movement in the tree you could detect it by eye, but that loose wedge told me it was moving.
    49 replies | 1877 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    04-19-2018
    A large washer floating on the line right behind the prusik will help prevent that, plus, the flat surface of the water gives a more efficient advance of the prusik.
    22 replies | 1287 view(s)
  • treesmith's Avatar
    04-16-2018
    treesmith replied to a thread Gecko feedback in Climbing Forum
    Thanks everyone. I'll look a little closer at them. I think 7-1/2 hours is the longest I've been in the hooks at one run (not standing in them the whole time, mind you, but up the tree). Four to five hours is rather common. I've often wondered if the Geckos would make it more bearable.
    17 replies | 1126 view(s)
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  1. I'm about 40 miles northwest of Tuscaloosa. Between Reform and Millport.
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    Where at in Alabama are u from? I'm in Birmingham...But bout to move back to the coast here in 3weeks...
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