Inspect this splice! It wasn't me.

Evan Sussman

TreeHouser
Joined
Feb 26, 2013
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Location
Stanwood, Washington
What do you think of this splice I paid for on my vortex climbing line. The guy who did it is a pro boat rope splicer, I had him do one on my velocity before and it looks better then this. After bringing up lock stitching in the x-ring thread, I'm thinking both of these should be lock stitched too. In his argument, it's an old rope splice, thought this end of the rope was barely dirty, and doubtfully used. The biggest thing I'm concerned about is that I witnessed that he didn't taper the core, hence the bump.


btw, I paid $30, what's the going rate for a splice like this?
20130421_152145.jpg 20130421_152150.jpg
 
Don't think that bulge is right...Nick has done several for me and never any bulges. I think it doesn't look very pro...should not look like that.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
Not saying it's a sign that it'll hold forever, but it's been climbed on and bounced and doesn't appear to have moved yet. I've been meaning to mark it.

As far as the bulge, I figured the worst was that it was going to be a point of abrasion on the cover.
 
From what I understand ( Im no splicer) there really shouldnt be a bulge and yes the taper is important. That being said that is when the rope is subjected to nearly full capacity say 90% MBS. At that point the diferent tensions on the fibers at that point will not distributed the load evenly and it will break at that point. That being said at this load range any climber using the rope will have a snapped spine and intestines hanging out his rectum. I would have no problems climbing on that but it is not a first class splice by any means.

Just my laymans view...
 
My understanding is that the taper is where the breaking strength draws from. A good taper, high break, bad taper low break. Because a spice essentially adds to the amount of fiber in the 'area' of the splice they rarely break 'in' the splice, usually just below the throat. My guess is that splice would break right at the bump and at a lower weight than a properly tapered splice.

NickFromWI should be able to offer a more expert view. I have only done a few but they dont look like that one.

The going rate for a climbing line hand splice from a major splicer (ABR, Iron Street, Sherrill) is $25. $15-20 for a sewn splice.
 
Looks like a crappy taper on the core. I think samson's instructions have you just cut it off at a 45 deg angle and remove 3 pairs over a 1/3" fid. I could be wrong so read the instructions to confirm that.

That looks like he just nipped the core at a slight angle it and tapered the last inch.

How many climbs do you have on it? You won't die, but I'd cut it off and redo it myself before the rope is really used and much more difficult to splice.

For $30 bucks that's a very "eh" job.

Nick will chime in too I'm sure.
 
I'd chop it off, that's not a good job at all for $30. Like others have mentioned, the rope will break at a very low MBS at that point, a proper taper is key to insuring a strong splice. Chop it off and resplice.
 
get a refund. They did a poor core tail taper. There will be extra chafe at the bump and your splice is weaker than it should be.

That person should not be charging money for splicing. Anyone with 1 hour on youtube will see the errors in this splice.

Not to be rude, but....
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #20
Alright, I wanna get it done right. I'm gonna see if I can do it. Other the good scissors, tape and a coat hanger what do I need? I think ill send the old eye to iron street to get it tested...
 
Evan- there are several threads in The House of Splice that talk about what's needed. You don't need much and chances are you have it all around the house already. Sharpie, marker, tape, ruler, scissors, awl.

Flush cut- yes, except as the chafe builds at the bump, this splice will get weaker and weaker.

love
nick
 
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