Knotless rigging

emr

emr

Cheesehead Treehouser
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
2,193
Location
Neenah, Wisconsin
I am just wondering what everyone is using in their knotless rigging systems for their slings. I just got done splicing up some 1/2in 3 strand slings that I am going to try. We have mostly been using sewn webbing slings but those always make me nervous. We also have some slings that we spliced from All Gears 24 strand webbing, but again that makes me nervous because they are made from Dyneema. Lastly, we have some rope slings made from various types or rock climbing ropes but they are getting old. I think 3 strand might be the way to go, but they are kind of bulky and a bit heavy. Out of all of the materials out there I am sure there is no perfect sling material but is 3 strand the best?
 
A lot of things have a place, but Jebus; get the tree down, get the check in the bank, and get knee high in some water. It is just tree work after all. Most of the time it takes longer to futz with sending slings back and forth when a knot could be untied and the next piece on the ground. Where's the general advantage?
 
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  • #4
Butch, That's what I most of the time. Odds are these slings will go unused for a year and the I will toss them. Old habits are hard to break.
 
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  • #5
What's the advantage? Well its having the right tool for the job. Some times it is way more efficient to use that system. I assume you don't use it and you probably wont but that's ok. To each their own.
 
I have spent tens of thousands of dollars on rigging gear in the 99 months I've been doing tree work. Now I spend that money and more on toys, vacations, and other things not related to making money.

What job equates to "knotless rigging" being the right tool? I'm all about quality tools.
 
I'm sorry, I missed the "Sling" part and concentrated on the 'knotless' part. I'll either use just the sling itself or if it's heavy I'll bust out a clevis.
 
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  • #8
Ok for those who use knotless rigging, see my original post. For those who fail to see the use, I will start a new thread so you can discuss the merits of not using it.

P.S. I really like the clevis idea. I may have to try that one.
 
I meant to say I used tubular webbing. IMO, knotless rigging is best suited for light pieces, sometimes many light pieces at a time.
 
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  • #10
I couldn't agree with you more! We sometime push the limits on light pieces and that's why all of the different webbing slings make me nervous.
 
I haven't run into a situation yet that required slings or knotless rigging. I can picture cranes...but knots are quick and easy to tie. I don't see an advantage unless maybe using a "zip-line"?
 
i only ever use knotless when i have to rig a bunch of small branches or in a zipline type situation. i love ganging up four or five branches on one rope so the ground guys arent staring at me while they wait for something to do. i could also see the usefulness of knotless for keeping pitch of your cherry rigging line.
 
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  • #17
Last Friday we used the sh!t out of the knotless system. We were pruning a few large limbs from a cottonwood that was growing over a house. The tree was about 15 ft from the house and the limbs went more than half way over the house. The roof was super steep and walking on the roof was not an option. Once the climber got out to where he needed to be to make the cuts there was no room to let the pieces drop. All of the branches needed to be cut very small and it would have taken forever if we would have taken each piece individually. The climber was able to cut several branches at once and on the last cut of the set I would lift the load to clear the house. The way we operate, this was the most efficient way to work the tree. Once we were able to cut it back we used the GRCS to lift the stem..... knotless and GRCS on the same tree. Go figure.
 
The chock loading with heavy branches or chunks is very hard on the crossing-over of the half hitch. That had always bothered me.
The knotless system is more friendly for the rope in term of wear and tear. The sling or the loop runner take the bite instead of the rope. Easier and cheaper to replace when needed.
And the rope is not so close to the chainsaw !

I use 3 strands polypropylene rope, cheap one from Leroy - Merlin (our Wallmart I think), 14 mm (9/16"), spliced by my self.
Nowadays, I make an other set, for heavy load, with Tenex 5/8" and special splices.
 
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  • #20
We just picked up a rigging plate in spring. Its amazing how big of a difference that makes.... nice little bit of kit. I have also used a big steel rigging ring. Both work well.
 
I like rigging with loop runners on the light stuff cuz its gets the rope back to me just a little quicker than waiting for groundies to un-tie. It does get annoying sometimes as I like to sling the tail around the next piece and the darn loop runner catches on everything and it won't wrap around as easy. I start removals with a bunch of loop runners on the saddle but end up tying running bowlines before I know it. Maybe it saves a lil time in the beginning, who knows.
 
I tried it and like it when I have to rope out lots of smallish branches: those ones that are too large to just let drop, but not large enough to warrant tying them on by themselves. My technique is to wrap each limbwith 36" long 3/8" yalex eye-eye slings with a carabiner on each one. Tie the end of the rope to one branch, then clip all the biners to the rope. The bottom branch is the stopper that keeps it all together

Say rigging out one of these goofy trees:
97421d1235542358-norfolk-pine-i-think-norfolk17.jpg


No biggy- get up there and start cutting. But put some delicate landscaping below and whatever else that is pretty, delicate, and expensive and all of a sudden you have to rope everything. Are you going to rope one at a time? Use the end of the rope to tie clove hitches around every limb so you can send bundles down? All of a sudden the knotless rigging starts to make sense.

love
nick
 
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