Short bar techniques.

sawinredneck · Mar 8, 2011

This was started on another forum in conversation, it was a bit tongue in cheek, but my back is liking the idea more all the time.
As I'm an idiot and can't seem to get beyond the idea that I want to continue on as best I can, the idea of a small saw (read light) with a 13" bar is becoming appealing to me. I'm thinking of hot rodding a 40cc saw to get the most out of it.
But I've no real idea of the proper techniques for falling and bucking with one. I've always been of the mind to use a bar at least as long as the tree is wide, or just a little short. I've done a few 24-25" trees with an 18" bar, but I don't really count that as the same as a 24-25" tree with a 13" bar.
So what are the felling tricks used to keep everything in line?
How are the easiest ways to quickly buck up a tree with a small bar?
I've just become proficient with the larger bars, so this will be all new to me, so lots of help please!

MasterBlaster · Mar 8, 2011

Heck, just start cutting! You'll need to get started sooner, anyhow... short bar and all that. ;>]

woodworkingboy · Mar 8, 2011

MasterBlaster said:
Heck, just start cutting!]

I think so too, common sense from experience is a great teacher with short bars. As far a felling goes, most manuals accompanying saws provide some basic info.

bill22 · Mar 8, 2011

If the bar is too short to make the felling [back cut] in a pass and will leave a plug of wood,bore into the face before hand and cut it from there.

SouthSoundTree · Mar 8, 2011

When double-cutting, aim your gunning sight to the farthest possible object for more accuracy (as goes with long bars).

I will bore into one side for the back cut, then can often progress toward the back of the tree (opposite the lay) until the tip pokes through the far side. I can pull the bar out, slot it into the same kerf and cut toward the hinge, leaving the backstrap in place for the final cut.

If you are boring into the backcut from both sides, overlapping the 2 kerfs will work fine if they don't match exactly. If the tree leans heavily enough, and rips your backstrap, you risk the saw getting thrown if your second kerf is above the first.

SoonerFan · Mar 8, 2011

Just ask Stig. He will love this thread.

Burnham · Mar 8, 2011

Stig posted some drawings he made of the technique, step by step, in some thread...I don't know where. Anyone recall?

stig · Mar 8, 2011

I'll take some pics tomorrow for you Andy.

Stihl has just put out a new 40some cubic saw in their pro line MS241.
It even comes with full arctic package.

If it runs as well as the 261 it will be a damned good little saw.

I'm thinking of ditching my 260 and getting one of these. If I do, I'll tell you all about it.

sawinredneck · Mar 8, 2011

SouthSoundTree said:
When double-cutting, aim your gunning sight to the farthest possible object for more accuracy (as goes with long bars).

I will bore into one side for the back cut, then can often progress toward the back of the tree (opposite the lay) until the tip pokes through the far side. I can pull the bar out, slot it into the same kerf and cut toward the hinge, leaving the backstrap in place for the final cut.

If you are boring into the backcut from both sides, overlapping the 2 kerfs will work fine if they don't match exactly. If the tree leans heavily enough, and rips your backstrap, you risk the saw getting thrown if your second kerf is above the first.

Thanks, didn't think about being able to bore into the cut made on one side. Most times I see the start on one side and just sweep across the back cut, making it look a lot easier than I'm sure it really is!

I've read the manuals, and watched the videos Jay. The manuals just touch on it and show the basics, I figured there would be a few here that had some tricks that were outside the box and quicker.
Yes, Stig was the first one to come to mind when this idea came to me.

Tucker943 · Mar 8, 2011

SouthSoundTree said:
When double-cutting, aim your gunning sight to the farthest possible object for more accuracy (as goes with long bars).

I will bore into one side for the back cut, then can often progress toward the back of the tree (opposite the lay) until the tip pokes through the far side. I can pull the bar out, slot it into the same kerf and cut toward the hinge, leaving the backstrap in place for the final cut.

If you are boring into the backcut from both sides, overlapping the 2 kerfs will work fine if they don't match exactly. If the tree leans heavily enough, and rips your backstrap, you risk the saw getting thrown if your second kerf is above the first.

Bingo. Of course, one cut fits all should never apply to falling trees but this about sums up the majority of trees

woodworkingboy · Mar 8, 2011

I saw some literature that Husqvarna put out once on falling techniques, including with short bars. It was rather detailed with a lot of photos. Some things in there that I had never seen before, appearing to be techniques from that part of the world. It was in Japanese, so possibly specifically for this market? A good resource I thought.

sawinredneck · Mar 8, 2011

Yeah, Jay, all of the videos I've seen aren't in English either!

brendonv · Mar 8, 2011

I'm looking forward to Stig's pictures.

sawinredneck · Mar 8, 2011

I figured if nothing else, we could all learn a bit from it, it's not a normal topic for sure, Brendon!

gf beranek · Mar 8, 2011

The European sawyers are masters of short bar felling techniques.

Al Smith · Mar 8, 2011

For several years all I had was a 2.3 cubic inch Poulan s-25 .I dropped some fair sized trees with it .Took a while but they all fell .

CurSedVoyce · Mar 8, 2011

Ditto on the Stig pics and lesson. My little 345s are actually very practical with a 16 bar. I could use some coaching. I am also thinking of picking up a couple 026s and playing with them as well

HolmenTree · Mar 8, 2011

I posted this awhile back, you want some real fun with a quick handling snappy saw? Try a "mild" modded 372XP with a 14" b/c.
Willard.

sawinredneck · Mar 8, 2011

Light Willard, light!

CurSedVoyce · Mar 8, 2011

HolmenTree · Mar 8, 2011

sawinredneck said:
Light Willard, light!

Yes it is , try cut and handpile an acre of timber into 2 ft blocks, any weight saved is a blessing

I could have saved a little more weight by running Oregon LG rather then the heavier LP.

Willard.

CurSedVoyce · Mar 8, 2011

I think what Andy means Willard is that the power head alone on your saw is more than what he wants the saw and bar to weigh.

HolmenTree · Mar 8, 2011

CurSedVoyce said:
I think what Andy means Willard is that the power head alone on your saw is more than what he wants the saw and bar to weigh.

Gotcha, but I think if Andy ran my 372 he wouldn't want to run anything smaller.

Willard

CurSedVoyce · Mar 8, 2011

It would cost him dearly in PT the next few weeks

sawinredneck · Mar 8, 2011

No Willard, I've run a 372, I've an 046 and a 350, I want something lighter than my 350 right now! My back doesn't care for the heavy saws much right now.

Short bar techniques.

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