Dwarf Trees

Old Monkey

Treehouser
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Mar 9, 2005
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I get called all the time to remove or hard prune a tree that someone says was a dwarf when they bought it and is now huge. I also had another customer tell me that the trick of her dwarf apple was to not prune it very hard it would grow out of its dwarf form. I intend to read up on dwarf trees but in the meantime, what do you guys know about dwarf trees?
 
The trees I see in orchards that are real dwarfish are on trellises or poles for support. I think the ones that don't need support are semi-dwarfs. Pruning them to keep them small makes sense. I see lots of tree pruning styles looking over orchards. Got any around you to look at and talk to the farmer? They should have a little time to spare this time of year.
 
Darin, are you looking at/for individual trees that are dwarfed like weeping caragana? I believe the plant breeders can initiate (or restrict) a gene that keeps a plants potential to grow limited. That is what they are going in cereal grains so they can be straight cut rather than swathed prior to harvest.

Growth regulators, like used around power transmission lines effects the buds growth potential. I don't know exactly how it works though.
 
My experiance with dwarf fruit trees is limited to those my dad planted .Now keep in mind my old man never pruned anything .Bad plan on those apple trees .Just because they were short didn't mean they didn't produce tons of fruit .So much it broke the trees down .

He planted the things in the early 60's and I cut the last one down a few years back when the big ice storm did the thing in .The trunk was over a foot thick and it never got over 10-12 feet high .It would get so loaded up during a good growing season the limbs bent clear to the ground . Now had the old boy trimmed them proper they would most likely still be here today .
 
There seems to be a cycle that tree go through, and at some point they become "leggy". They exhibit a growth spurt of wood, rather than foliage. This usually happens after a drought period, when the tree goes into survival mode. Apical buds are the trigger. and Coder explained that they have discovered that stored Branch tip) reserved are closer to source than sink (trunk or roots).

Some fruit trees set seed (fruit) on last years wood, some on new wood. IMO Fruit bearing trees must be kept in check with pruning, to keep the fruit accessible and keep the wood structure intact from breakage.

I look after about 50 apple trees, I always try to watch the structure of the scaffold limbs. An example is to leave fruit buds on the bottom on the limb (after reduction) than on the top.
 
My understanding regarding fruit trees that the most important decider of whether it's a dwarf or semi-dwarf is the rootstock (Malling 1-4) I have a couple that were sold to me as maturing the smallest possible size and they have FAR exceeded this representation. I have had no trouble keeping them at about 20', but have had problems with too much fruit (no June drop to speak of) and distended branches from the weight. On the other hand, this has pleasantly transformed a "Centennial" into an almost-weeper and makes it really easy to pick.
 
Darin, Most of the big "Dwarf" trees are either standards that were mis-labled or semi-dwarf trees that got poor pruning. True dwarfs are pretty well restricted by the root stock-poor pruning can really screw up the growth pattern but even it a bunch of epicormic shoots make it "leggy" it won't get huge.
 
Fruit trees are managed by their pruning to produce fruit the way that they do. My guess is that normally maturing/ nonpruned trees don't have as much problem with the fruit load. Its normal to thin the fruit when on orchard- aintained trees every year, both for quality for the remaining fruit, reduced fruit drop before ripening, and reducing the fruit weight load.

I recently read that apple trees should be thinned to a fruit per 4-6", on average, for best quality of fruit. This is done when the fruit are dime-sized.

Good fruit tree pruning will help both to avoid, and deal with with inclusions and other structural issues, especially important since the weight cycles every year, significantly, especially if the fruit is not thinned. More supple branch structure that bends under load rather than breaks is sometimes developed/ hopefully developed.

Some fruit trees will go through stress where they won't produce much fruit some years, followed by too much the next year.
 
Labour of Love, what do you mean by June Drop?

June drop is the tree's own, natural attempt (usually sometime in June) to drop away a large portion of the fruit that it knows it will be unable to mature. Somehow, the tree knows what it's capabilities are for growing/ripening a certain amount of fruit and tries to rid itself of what it hasn't the reserves to mature.
 
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  • #16
I am thinking of buying a dwarf Myer Lemon and keeping it in the house through winter. Have any of you cold weather folks done this before with a citrus tree?
 
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  • #18
I barely have room for one. I figure you get more bang for your buck with a lime or lemon than an orange.
 
My dad with his many hobbys did have a grapefruit tree he had planted from a seed .It never produced fruit and only got maybe three feet high .It did however last over thirty year and did quite well under he tired of fooling with it .

Hard to say but I suspect the seed might have been from a hybredised tree plus being a lone tree perhaps there was no means of fertilization to produce fruit . On that though Mrs Smith ,my better half has a potted palm about two feet tall with nary a coconut in sight .If it would fruit they wouldn't be any larger than a marble .
 
Over the years, I've had a few different sorts of citrus fruit growing indoors. The Meyer lemon never produced much, although the variegated leaf one is quite lovely. The most reliable for me has been the Calamondin - looks like a miniature orange, is very tart and has huge seeds (un-proportional to the size of the fruit). But, it's self-fruitful (needs no pollination) and bears year around. When the fruits become ripe, a new crop of buds form and bloom. Like all citrus, they smell wonderful. They are easily kept small as they are small trees - the largest one I've seen growing outdoors was about 15' X 15' (tall & wide).
 
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  • #22
Do you have a greenhouse or do you bring it in the house int winter and take it out in spring?
 
A 30 year old three foot tree? Never seen one before. How can it be called a tree?
Well ,kind of the runt of the litter I suppose -----

It acted like a regular citrus tree as far I know .Unlike the hardwood trees of course it wouldn't really shed leaves but it did go into a "dormant " stage every so often .Fact is one winter while the folks were in Florida I thought I killed the damned thing by not enough water .Turned out to be just one of the dormant things .
 
My mother took in my yiaiya's (Greek grandmother) lemon tree when she couldn't take care of it anymore. It' was in a pot slightly smaller than a whisky barrel, They would get it outside on the deck in the summer, and then it stayed by a sliding glass door the rest of the year. I don't remember her pruning it at all, but maybe she did. It was about 3 ft high from the soil line, and it bore about two lemons every year. I don't think the lemons were much to speak of, but just one blossom opening would FILL the house with fragrance. It would have been over twenty years old....I'll have to ask next time I call home.

I remember as a kid, my sister put her pet toad in the pot and it burrowed down and spent the winter there. Ha!
 
Do you have a greenhouse or do you bring it in the house int winter and take it out in spring?

South-facing window, indoors year around - far too much aggro shifting outside, then back inside and having to quarantine 'em (I have 2) until I'm sure the bugs are gone. They always seem to acquire some sort of whitefly when they go outdoors. Same problem with Rosemary - it prefers being outside, but isn't really fond of being brought back indoors.
 
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