Blocking down a spar. How do you do it?

How do you block down a spar?


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SouthSoundTree

Treehouser
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Got the poll set up, so this post is redundant.

I watched Aaron struggle on the spar yesterday with a lot of one hand on the saw, one hand on the block trying to fight the bind until he could power through with the saw, or fight it out and finally go for a snap cut.
 
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  • #3
Yes, Wiley. Properly working saw for sure.

If I have the space, to drop chunks instead of rounds, I try to "magic" them off. Least amount of effort, though some sloped ends on every couple of firewood rounds.
I did have one recently that was about 6' tall that sat down rather than rocking off, as I didn't have the center of gravity undermined quite enough. Was rather vertical, so while not 100% calm, cool, collected, I wasn't panicked either. A couple of wedges sorted it out.


Pull rope only if I really need it.



Sap wood cuts, as needed
 
I voted for them all.
no definitve way, all methods are used depending on situation
 
Smaller stuff or chunks where I can get leverage to push then I'll just cut straight through. It's a lot easier from a bucket because you can position yourself higher in relation to the work. Bigger stuff I'll snap cut and on really big fat rounds I'll snap cut and push it off with the boom. :/:
 
I do what works. Often straight through unless I gotta worry about some snaggy type bark like birch or something swinging a block off course, then I'll make a kerf for a face cut and just have at er from the back. If I have room to send good sized pieces I'll often make a deep undercut to undermine the COG and then let the wood do the work. Snap cuts usually only if I need the piece to be secure while I park the saw to facilitate throwing the piece into a drop zone. I'f I'm negative blocking then I pretty much always make a face cut and back cut.
 
Got to be a mix and match here, start off with the step cut, snap and chuck upto around 20" then deffo cut through and push. Possibly with a wedge on a string to back up when Im tired!;)
 
Butch, I smashed my thumb doing that about 15 years ago. My saw was extra sharp that day and cut through the log quicker than I expected and I pushed the bottom of the log right out causing the top to come back on me. It came down and smashed my thumb on the top of the spar, took 13 stitches to sew the pad of my thumb back on and I still have scar tissue that keeps callousing up every couple months.

Now when I push on logs I make sure I have enough leverage to push the top in the proper direction instead of sliding the bottom out.
 
I screamed like a little girl. And I absolutely despise blocking down big logs while on spikes. Ever since then I would rarely take spar pieces longer than 3'-4', only if it had a lean toward the lay.
 
I don't mind blocking down spars, but if I'm doing it then it's going to be in 3' chunks. Which is where the hopped up chainsaws come into play. :D
 
I voted tag line with a face cut, but when not rigging and others are busy I'll put in a little dutchman on the notch and push after making a snap cut.

I like the easy ways.
 
Safest, easiest and efficient way possible. Every tree lends a different plan. If I can notch and take 8s + I will.. If I have to dice up pizza I will. Wedges are handy.. What will my rigging handle? What will the tree handle.... Drop zone?
And what Dave said :D Sharp and fast!
 
Not sure what the "magic cut" method is all about but I like to cut 90 percent through, remove saw and meet first cut coming down at 45 degrees to cut the last 10 percent from opposite side of first cut. Blocks then sits down and you can throw it to target area.

Personally I think the worst part of removing trees is rigging down a spar when it can't be blocked down, but I rarely do it. Might not be that bad if ya did it routinely - or from a bucket!
 
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  • #23
Kinda wanted to generate some discussion, and just see what people had up their sleeves.
Aaron finished blocking down the big fir today. Said that none of the pavers broke.



I've been wanting to try using dowel rods as rollers for wide rounds. I saw that big block pusher for thick rounds that are too heavy to push.

I have a large maple to remove, and I was wondering about having to quarter the rounds of the main trunk to push them off. Don't know if I can get a crane in on the dead end street without looking at a $535 street obstruction permit, plus a traffic control plan, and a certified flagger. I'm hoping to maybe rig it down to the main trunk, then have a smaller crane lift small pieces off the trunk, but barring that, I may have some good sized rounds 42" or so. Don't know if the center is rotten or not. Won't be shocked if it is, having been topped a while back.
 
Well using the power of the force wasn't an option so I put cut straight through. On bigger pieces I flake off a piece of bark and wedge it in the kerf and then use the bar to help slide the piece far enough off the side that I can launch it with no problem. Smaller stuff I send down in sizes the guys can carry, usually three firewood lengths. I've gotten really good at marking out 16" pieces.
 
I'm with those who say, as Stephen did most recently, that it totally depends on the specifics of the situation of each cut, let alone each tree.

Having said that, my preference is to take long enough lengths that I can undermine the COG with a deep face and backcut up to a thin hinge and either let gravity take it or set the saw aside and give it a little push...but I am more willing than many climbers I have worked with to step up high (relative to the backcut) to give myself decent leverage.

Obviously, if they are felled free without LZ restriction, I take as much length as I can...I shoot for 1/3 of the total spar length with each felled section, so they land flattish.

I'm more comfortable than some I know with negative blocking, maybe 'cause I've the good fortune of having a few skoocum rope handlers to work with (which is not to say I haven't been rattled off my spurs a few times over the years :D). I much prefer to take the time to set rigging and take maximum lengths the rigging can handle than drop off pizza rounds free. But if I do have to go that route, I usually backbar all the way through, allowing the chips to fill the kerf and keep pinch at bay (and keeping the chip from filling up my face and shirt) :).
 
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