Suggestions for helping a pecan tree

I have been asked by a local church if they might be able to prolong the life of this large pecan by removing some of the foliage to offset the defect/rot in the trunk.

There are some large broken limbs that I will be removing to make it safe again. Is there any likelihood that they can prolong the life of the tree by thinning the crown...one of the concerns will be that removal of too many limbs at one time can allow the possible introduction of more disease organisms to the tree. My instinct is to just manage the tree for safety while it eventually succumbs to the obvious trunk defect/rot.

If you are real bored there is a large set of pictures here:

http://garylayton.smugmug.com/Tree-stuff/Trees-at-Powder-Springs-UMC/13985218_5iLjF#1028330829_W54Dg

Their other trees have various problems...from a split trunk (pict. 19) to exposed roots that need to be covered. The 35-40 foot pecan at the end of the parking island appears to have been planted too deeply...or filled in around it when the parking lot was made...I excavated a side of the tree to show where the root flare starts...the flare is not visible above grade. (pict. 26-35)

Any input is appreciated.

That tree needs to be put out of its misery. Any green you remove will just be more nails in the coffin.

Looks like an old lightning strike.

I was thinking an old tear out.

I certainly wouldn't remove much if any green, unless I was removing all of it.

What are there long term goals?

I agree with Carl, looks like an old tear out. It looks like the decay has effected close to 1/3 of the trunk circumference. If it mine and I lived in the land of litigation lawyers, I would turn it into firewood.

Can you drill the sound part of the trunk to establish how much good wood is in the trunk? All the TRC I know of involve the amount of sound wood and % of loss on the circumference.

Was a dignified tree in its time. The risk of killing someone based on location, species and size of piece apt to fail are used to determine the risk rating, it is the owner that sets the tolerance of risk they are wiling to take.

For me, when it gets to the point of spending good money on a bad project, I lean towards removal.

I would start by telling them to move the picnic tables somewhere else.
That'll lower the risk a bit.

Carl,

They are interested in getting as much use out of the tree as they can...good shade, been there a long time...however, safety is going to be the biggest consideration. There are not any targets in the immediate area...the BBQ shed is far enough away to be safe.

Good idea, Stig, on the tables.

If safety is number one I'd be making a undercut number two and a backcut number three.

hahahaha...well put....simple as 1-2-3

Awwwwwe ... Nuttin a little concrete, bailing wire and duct tape wouldn't fix...

Don't forget some lightning protection.

I would be hanging some tinfoil in the branches to scare off all of the squirrels, so they don't get all of the pecans.

Just kidding, I'm not sure what to do with that one, I guess I would just try and make the owner happy, since it is GOD.

Gary, do you know how long ago the injury occurred? There seems to be some amount of callus forming which is a good sign, but hard to tell without knowing the species too well and the amount of time that has elapsed. Are pecans good compartmentalizers? I like the idea of moving the benches, this seems like a good approach.

In terms of removing foilage, this won't be good for the health of the tree but will be great for the structure of the tree if done wisely, just have to balance those two. A crown reduction and some thinning (to lessen the sail effect) would definitely help if the decision to preserve the tree is made. Also, a nice layer of mulch around the tree and maybe even get a soil test done to see if any nutrient deficiencies exist; soil tests are cheap and worth the time/money IMO. I would try and push for preserving if they were open to it (and aware of the risks), just needs some TLC. Cool project, let us know how it turns out!

jp

Newfie said:

Don't forget some lightning protection.

Click to expand...

I already listed bailing wire







God is gonna strike me down now, I just know it

I wouldn't want to take additional foliage away from it. It is already going to be losing some with those broken limbs.I'd suggest that if they want safety and longevity of the tree, they can restrict access to the area. How is the compaction? Mulch and water, as needed. Recommendations that I've heard are up to 1" per week as a non-species/ ecosystem specific amount, natural precip and irrigation combined.

When did the storm damage occur?

What orientation is that cavity to the predominant wind? Often the most overlooked part of the tree is what you can't see(new figures suggest that between 50 and 60% of a trees total volume in subterranean). Roots not only take up water and nutrients, they anchor the sucker too! If that is indeed decay, determining what type of pathogen it is!

As far as pruning the green part, remember there is a direct correlation between root and shoot! If the tree is stressed by nutrient deficiency, it's defence systems are unable to ward of further attacks by bacteria, fungus and viruses. Old trees like people are slow to recover from stressors. The vascular system becomes less efficient, so pruning the top may add to the death spiral.

It pisses me off that NOW the tree is a valuable assest. Why didn't they spend a few bucks earlier to enhance the soil, structure...... Trees are an asset, assets require maintenance and management, maintenance and management cost money, and hopefully money isn't the limiting factor. Trees do shed limbs, thats their nature. Sometimes your left with an ugly wound on a tree that is in a prominent spot. Stuff happens. Maybe it was lightening struck, hard to tell from 2500 mile away.

Like anything in life, you only get out of it what you put into it. I am a pretty good arborist, there are a few things I can't do, make up for lost time, and resurect dead trees. TRA is subjective at best. Knowing what the annual weather is, the site, and even the "feel" of the ground, are factors in making the final call.

Perhaps a short post and rail fence can be constructed around the dripline and place placards describing the risk the tree presents and its significance to the property on this fence. Mulch the interior of the fence and declare a no-fly zone. Remove only broken branches. Consider cabling/using bracing to support weak limbs. Thats if we're keeping it.

Looks like the park is well used, given the condition of the turf around the tree. It would be imperative to educate the client on liability issues regarding a well defined risk factor. Once these issues and risks are clear to the client, they make the call.

It's not good shade, it's unsafe shade. The only thing I would do to it is remove it.