How to fell a leaning tree.

Which way?


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    17

emr

Cheesehead Treehouser
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
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leaning tree.png The other day, we were removing a boxelder that was leaning really had to the side. We wanted to drop it at 90 degrees to the lean. It got me thinking about how to place the face cut. How do you guys do it? Do you make the face cut parallel to the ground or perpendicular to the tree stem. I will attach a pic with the two options. I am also talking about just the stem. For the purpose of this discussion, lets not factor in any canopy.
 
Level face, pretty much always. A side benefit, with a leaner, is that a level face allows for a wider cut, and wider means stronger. Strength of holding wood is helpful to help counteract the lean weight.
 
Usually level, although sometimes I go perpendicular to the spar. On limbs I usually go perpendicular to the limb.
 
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  • #5
I was thinking about making this a poll, but I dont know how I would vote. I have done both. I just cant get my mind around the logic of using one over the other. To me it sounds like both have their merits but is one better and safer than the other? Who knows?
 
I guess I'm an idiot, angled.

I habitually make my face cuts with respect to the wood rather than the ground, maybe it's one of those rules I should re-examine.
 
I'm with MB and Blinky.

The reasons:
Keeps the gun true.
It keeps the hinging fibers operating in one plane which *should be* (haven't quantified it, so I won't say "is") stronger. One day I'll apply noggin power to quantify/solidify this point.
Adding length to the hinge is nearly moot. On a 20* leaning stem, cutting it level adds 6.4% to the hinge length, on a 10* lean it adds 1.54%.
Probably forgetting something other point.
 
Eh? I am a fan of the "angled" or rather 90*/Perp. to the wood fiber as the picture on the right illustrates.
 
I remember a tree dude telling me that cutting like the first example

could create a slightly weaker hinge than in example #2.
 
I cut most leaners 90* to the lean of the tree as in #2. I often also use more of an open face cut if I am to swing the tree up to 45* or so from the natural lay. Once I approach the 90* mark, I will cut more of a conventional face that is parallel to a level plane.. like level with the ground. Seems to allow the tree to commit more to the face when pulling out 90*. But hey.. I am no internet expert... Where is that guy anyway :/:
 
Here I am! :D

mac1.gif
 
I have done both, but most often keep the face cut parallel to the ground (or one might say parallel to gravity, as sometimes the tree is on a severe slope and parallel to the ground is then a meaningless descriptor). Seems highly situational which I use; somewhat driven by gut feeling; most times I insist upon a rope to oppose the lean, especially the less-strong-wooded species.
 
Carl,
If in doubt stand in the line of fall, facing the tree and hold about two to three feet of your lanyard with snap end hanging freely down and the vertical line it describes is pointing to the center of the earth, and a line 90 degrees to that is "perpendicular to gravity" in our hillbilly vernacular.
 
I seem to recall Jerry saying parallel to the ground in his book, but always wondered if he should have added a paragraph. The wood fiber issues is something that trips me up.
 
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  • #25
I am glad to see I am not the only one not sure about this topic. Thanks for all of the comments so far. Pretty interesting stuff.
 
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