Going Dutch

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Now THOSE were cool. It's been a while since I've seen some new advanced falling techniques like that.
 
Good tricks but it drove me nuts that he didn't get a good shot of the stumps afterwards.
 
I'm with you Darin, at least on the dutchman. The other cut would have had me running alot sooner!
 
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  • #12
If you ain't Dutch you ain't MUCH! :D
 
This ones pretty cool
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:O

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That's a real cool technique, using the weight of the tree to settle on the kerfs, along with the holding wood on the far side to swing it around. It's friggen brilliant! Thanks for posting it!

Lots of in the woods clearance work coming up, I'll be wanting to try it for sure.

I think caution about cutting too deep as you work around to the far side back cut, kind of vulnerable there working at the base of the lean, if the tree lets go before it swings away sufficiently. I think that's why he sets his axe on the ground in the back, as a reference for leaving sufficient holding wood.
 
Cool, hope he drops by the treehouse.

I like how he ducked under that spar coming down in the first vid Willie posted, that takes experience.
 
From what I saw he under cut the humbolt a tad on the down hill side in addition to leaving a little dutchman down hill . Now did he make a tapered back cut leaving meat on the up hill side.? I could'nt see the way he did it or see much of the stump .
 
That was really cool. Can someone explain the soft dutchman a little better?

I think that calling it a "dutchman" is kind of confusing, because it seems like instead of undercutting on the lean side of the face, he does it on the opposite side in a couple passes, each one shallower than the one above done before. Maybe he's got a little undercut going on the lean side too, as Al said? It looked like his last shallow cut trough the slope of the face, was about even in depth to the top face cut, so if you figure he's about two inches deeper on each cut as he stated, then with the three cuts he's four inches or more around the opposite side past the face. He leaves more holding wood on the back side opposite the lean, so when the tree goes over and swings toward the greater holding wood there, it drops down into the kerfs, and the settling accentuates the swing. Got to leave good holding wood on the far side, or it won't work.

Hope that might be of some help. :|:

No shat!
 
I can about 90 degrees of swing ,usually .The last one I tired to do would have taken about 120 and like a dummy I snipped the wrong side of the hinge and thus had to practice taking down a leaner .:roll:

I don't think I'd make it as a faller on the slopes .
 
on his initial horizontal cut he cuts well into the favor side of the tree. Often time this is enough kerf to get the swing you want though it can be sharp.
He added 2 more kerfs that by pass the corner on the angle cut, I see that this kept a much smoother action in the swing.
What happens is the kerf closes on the lean side, when it does it starts a pivot, depending on the amount of holding wood on the uphill side, you can get the tree to swing quite a ways.
 
Wiley, his kerfs only bypass the corner on the far side it seems. Does that concur with what you're saying?
 
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  • #24
" Smasheesh, drug of choice for the timber faller"
 
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He put his axe in the back cut like you might do with a wedge, loosly. That way you can see subtle movements, if the handle lifts, the tree is setting back, if it lowers, the tree is commiting
 
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