Cow or timber

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Greenhorn

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Never really gotten into alot of complex rigging situations thus far, but I have an American elm in the morning that I will have to dust off the block and assorted pulleys for. Question is, what hitch is everybody using to attach slings in the tree? Looking at cow and timber hitch now.....

THANKS!
 
Cow hitch is nice and reliable.

The cow has a minimum of four tucks/wraps.

The timber has a minimum of seven tucks/wraps.
 
huh ? Boden can you post a pic of what your tieing ? I'm guessing you mean on the tail end.
 
Cow hitch untill the sling gets to short, then timber hitch or then its time to switch to bigger block with longer sling so back to cow hitch.
 
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thanks guys, the number of wraps etc is what I am after, cow looks a bit more complicated...
 
I only have a sling on a porty, and an odd one in the tool box for god knows what. Typically depends on tree diameter.

Loopies for blocks in the tree. No fiddling with knots.
 
Ummmmmm to me; a Cow is like a sling choked with 1 leg cut open; it is best if that leg is then stoppered or secured.

They both start with a Back Hand Hitch (which if placed on a krab is more familiarly called a Muenter); but with different finishes. Cow comes back thru where first leg did, to form like a choker on 1 leg so can make by grabbing eye and tail and choking around and releasing tail/ bitter = Cow Hitch. Timber makes a loose braid around self to finish (after Back Hand Hitch), so is more dependent on convex mount at nip points of braid. Each is stronger if taking a Round Turn rather than a single Turn around standing; like a dbl.Noose does (see both ABoK 1669 pix, and note also another feature, how the first tuck doesn't come under immediately, but goes over, then under).

As a Timber can also be described as a form of Half Hitch (not the kind of half as precedent of running Bowline etc., but the kind as hitch formed around self); a little study of these pics from ABoK show that it is best to not tuck as soon as possible on braid of Timber, but rather go over, then tuck(see fig.8 Hitch #1666, fig.8 Timber 1668). This gives extra frictions and places that tuck farther from Standing (see Anchor simbol by Half Hitch w/ better Nip ABoK 1663 vs. skull symbol on regular Half Hitch ABoK 1662, or even how slipped 1664 is better than 1662) . At Standing position, we have the most force pulling away from spar/ mount, so least trapping pressure. In fact increasing 'twirls' / 'braids' give extra securing frictions(that reduce the pull against subsequent nip positions) and nips/ traps-but the most important feature would be to finish or at least pass thru the point opposite of Standing, that pulls tightest into spar, to secure most, like in
If pulling straight away , perpendicular from mount, things are kinda neutral, but if pulling along the spar / mount, prefer the Turn / Round Turn around Standing to be against the direction of pull. If less line, will go with Timber, if there are flat spots or indentations around mount, go more with Cow. Have, with more line, gone kinda hybrid from Cow, to the Timber braids, finishing with tuck/ slip opposite Standing.

Notice how all these hitches are for right angle/ perpendicular pull to host spar / mount; thus pulling along length of host spar / mount is a bit compromised (notice reference slightly to this in #1733), use extra care, don't pull into reducing taper, try to dawg on imperfections / swells and /or cut own bedding kerfs or humboldts for such to lock into is most positive. MR. Ashley in his ABoK bible even separates pulls perpendicular to the spar and pulls pairallell / along spar into 2 different chapters- that are right next to each other, because of these mechanics, defining them as separate and distinct.

Many knot secrets in these simple pages below. Though off topic; notice the sweet simplicity of mr.1709(and it's comments) for utility apps.



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Either one, depends on how long the sling is compared to the tree.
 
The guy that showed me the timber hitch always used a maximum of 2 wraps, and never had a problem with accidental loosening etc. It's been the same for me, although for no particular reason I often put in 3 wraps.

Not saying it is the right or best way, just saying it is one way that has worked well for me.
 
I used a timber hitch on a re-direct in which I was pulling a heavy back leaning tree over with my forestry truck and I put five wraps on it. I pulled pretty hard on it and the first three wraps tightened up but the last two were still loose. Still a timber hitch depends on friction against the bark of the tree and as such there is a big variable there. I always put five wraps in it and spread them out as far as possible.
 
Preferably a whoopie sling, but otherwise cow on smaller diameter until I run out of sling, then timber hitch on the bigger stuff.

The only reason I use the cow really is to avoid a long dangling tail.
 
I always thought the amount of wraps on a timber hitch really was about making sure the wraps extended at least three quarters of the way around the stem. ?? 5-8 whatever wraps does not so much matter?
 
My teacher just pointed out how the first wrap is like a chinese handcuff- the more pull there is on the eye, the tighter the wrapped end will be captured/crushed against the tree. So he said one wrap is all you really need but put in 2 for security.
 
My teacher just pointed out how the first wrap is like a chinese handcuff- the more pull there is on the eye, the tighter the wrapped end will be captured/crushed against the tree. So he said one wrap is all you really need but put in 2 for security.

I would say that one wrap or even two may be not enough. I guess it depends on the dia. and also importantly, the species.
You would never put one or two wraps on a big euc. log. Either it would slip, or what often happens is the bite of the rope simply peels the bark off.
 
I typically go 180 degrees around the stem for a timber but I go further on smooth barked species like sycamores.
 
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