Rivet Spinner

brendonv

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Mar 6, 2005
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Oxford, Connecticut
So,

I am all setup to do my own chains, spinner, punch, and a roll of chain. I have never seen it done and would like "instructions" so to speak on how to to the rivet part....

I broke and old chain apart, and tried spinning a rivet. The two are riveted together but it's super tight....:lol:

Can I get some insight?

8)
 
First put a drop of oil on the rivet head before you spin it .Spin tighten ,spin . Periodically test the thing to make sure it doesn't get tight as a bulls arse during fly time .

It just takes a little practice, you'll get it .
 
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  • #5
The pre-riveted strap goes on the stationary spinner handle side, and the other part goes on the threaded handle side?
 
Opposite that. The threaded side sets the tension, the spinnin side spins it.

So the preriveted side's head goes on the threaded handle, the tip of the rivit hits the spinner's anvil.


ETA, maybe I misunderstood the question or the terminology?
 
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  • #13
The directions I got with the kit had words and letters missing from the photo copy....

I did the first one backwards, on a junk chain. It all makes sense now doing it RIGHT.

Looks like I can make 23 20" loops, pretty good deal.

My math could be wrong but $12 a chain?
 
$12 per loop is about right for 20" loops based on what you paid for the chain. I think I'm at about $15-$16 per loop on 84 or 93 link loops. Beats paying $30-$40 at the dealer.
 
12 bucks is a good deal if it's Stihl chain .If not and either Carlton or Oregon it's about the same as Baileys ready makes .
 
I posted this in the OCGD thread but figured it was worth repeating here (for future reference).

On my spinner, I know exactly how far to turn the threaded side while spinning the rivet head side. It's about one turn from where I start, so I spin the spinner side about 4-5 times while turning the back part one turn, then back it off.

I have several of those little white tubes of grease that come with new Husky saws. I dab that on the rivets before spinning them. I can't find any other good use for it other than greasing the sprocket bearing once every couple months.
 
Ive never even thought about greasing the rivet before spinning.

Wouldn't the amount you turn the threaded side vary depending on the rivet / chain size? I just eyeball it. I get it as tight as I can without any binding.
 
Even if you get the rivet too tight, it loosens up when you put it on the saw and run it around a bit....in theory.
 
Yes John, different chains are slightly different widths. I was speaking about running up several in a row of the same size.

And actually, since all my chains are .050 gauge, the thickness of the drivers is quite similar even on different pitches. The 3/8" lo pro is a bit skinnier but the .325 is almost the same width as the full size 3/8".
 
I have found that their is a slight money advantage with making my own chain, but not alot.
I use Stihl chain.
To make the chain just that right amount of tightness takes some practice. If you look at the size of the existing rivet heads and match that, you should be good to go.
Never have used the grease, seems like it would help things a bit.

Biggest problem I have had is miscounting the links. Ever get half way through the count and have you wife come in and start asking questions about something? :)
I have a pile of bits of chain left over from the spool. Someday I will make up some chain from them.
 
Frans, Bailey's has a chain link count sticker you can put on your workbench. Or you can just put a nail in the end of the bench and mark off your common chain lengths.
 
Yea, I had one of those, took up too much room on my bench. Besides I like a bit of excitement :thumbup:
 
Funny, I have one of those, and have been getting around to using it for like fifteen years. Mounting it on a board and covered with some plexiglas, seems the ticket.
 
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  • #25
It's stihl chain Al.

I got it setup just for convenience of needing a chain, go and make one kinda thing.
 
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