Where to buy carbs for Stihl

CurSedVoyce

California Hillbilly
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
41,923
Location
Near Yosemite in CA USA
Little project I have decided I am going to try....
I have these FS250s (Brush Cutters) that I have decided I would try and make one work again.
Fact is I have three for parts I should be able to make one out of. All have lost compression though. Soooooooo.
Back in my teens when I was working on mopeds, some I could just hone out the cylinder, install new rings and piston kit and get going again if it was not scoured badly.
Of course what killed my Stihls were the infamous, self destructing Zama Carbs that are on them.
So the next step is not to be raped by my local dealer here and buy the carbs elsewhere for closer to reasonable. If this works I should be able to put one back together for 1/2 or less of what they want to do it for.
I will also need a 40mm cylinder hone if anyone knows where would be a good place to get one. Mostly need where to buy the carb at present.
Lucky me that Baileys has the piston kit since it is the same as the 200t.
 
What does your dealer want for the carb? I think they can run anywhere from $35-$65 each. Still less than an hour of shop time.
 
"plus labor"???
You just said you've rebored cylinders before. But you need to pay a shop to swap a carb on a weedwacker? It's two screws, two linkages and either one or two fuel lines that slip on without clamps. If you seriously cannot swap out a weedwacker carb then I highly doubt your claim of being a moped mechanic in years past. Simply impossible.
 
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  • #5
Umm Brian..... chill.....
No I did not say I "bored cylinders". I have honed them.
Most of why I often don't do my own work is just for lack of time and tools. Now it is more money that is driving me to do so instead of throwing money at a problem.
It has also been 30 years since I did small engine work and it was for only 2 years when I was a friggen teenager. I often held down more than one job when I was younger, so I have done many things. I never said I could not do the work, just that time is a factor. I am trying to lower my repair costs and retool to do the work myself when I have the time.....
So I am asking here.... Does someone have a good resource for Zama carbs so I CAN DO MY OWN WORK. I am perfectly capable of doing the work B!
Someone piss you off today? WTF?
 
Sorry Stephen. But once you get 'retooled' I think you'll find it very simple to swap a carb. You should be able to use the tools included with the Stihl tool kit you got when you bought it (scrench, tiny screwdriver, torx driver). You may need a 5/16" (8mm) wrench or nut driver and a pair of needlenose. Sorry your dealer charges so much. If you can post up a part number I'll call my guy and see how much they run here.
 
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  • #8
Thank you for apologizing and I am sorry I snapped also.
Swapping carbs is no problem... Already done my 455 and FS55, and one FS250 because I had a couple new carbs from other repairs done in the past. Tooling meaning Tach, hone, full set of torx etc. And a work bench to call my own.... The IPL lists a few different carbs for the FS250 so I have to go out and pull one as soon as momma gets home to take over the kiddos. Then I can see what one is on it. I appreciate you checking with your guy there once I get the number.
Not to derail also... Seems most everyone up here is price gouging lately. Even the feed stores. Fence wire is double what you pay 45 - hour away... Its friggen ridiculous. Feed more than double. Premium gas just went over 3.00 gal. Stihl full synthetic mix is almost 10.00 per bottle that makes 5 gal. Trouble is they gotcha as by the time you add in time and fuel to go get it cheaper, well you get the picture :P
 
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  • #9
Ok I pulled the latest carb on the last self destructing FS250.
Zama Carb C1Q S83
Part number 4134-120-0604A accourding to the ZAMA site.
 
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  • #10
Ok pulled Cyl head off... no scouring, normal wear looks like...
Little mark on the piston skirt. Honing will work plus new piston kit.
Carb has not worn on the throttle butterfly bushings, just a broken return spring. I think I will start with a new carb though and see if I can order the spring for this carb to use as back up.
What usually happens is the bushings wear quickly (twice a year in my case) and then the carb leans out. After about 2-4 times this happens.. it's too late. Cooked. One time it was once. How we came to find out about the problem.:what:

I took some pics but I just found out the card reader is dead and I can't find the cord to the camera:what: I just bagged and tagged everything and put it away so I aint pulling it all out for pics again till I start the work another day. Then I can show ya'll what I am dealing with.
 
Are the Cali carbs different than other states? I don't know if the Cali standards are more stringent than the other 49, requiring a different, leaner carb.

IMO the operator (or the equipment owner if he's within earshot) should usually be able to tell if a machine is running too lean. This is where the "I don't want to adjust the carb and void the warranty" mentality ends up costing people thousands of dollars through burnt up equipment.

Here's a hint- If a machine requires the choke to start any time other than the first start of the day, it may be too lean. If the machine is 'cold natured' and needs to 'warm up' before it will rev up to full throttle, it's set too lean. Here's the carb adjustment page again. I'm not trying to be critical, but I hate hearing about people losing machine after machine to lean seize when all they have to do is richen up the carb a little to compensate. Yes, the stupid little limiter caps will probably have to be removed. Those caps have cost you enough money already.

http://www.madsens1.com/saw carb tune.htm
 
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  • #12
Could be that CA requires a leaner carb Brian, I am not sure but it would make sense. When I trouble shot the FS 55 that we use for light detail trimming they had put a CAT muffler on it for CA. I ordered a different one and it works just fine. Does not melt things like the throttle cable and wires anymore..... Dealer did not even pick up on it.. I took it in to show them. They said they have to order the CARB approved muffler for CA no matter so they could not have fixed the issue anyway by CA law.
Maybe your guy could see if there is a carb for outside CA. I would promptly order that one to keep my machines safe.
You are right about hearing it. I ran split teams for two years so I was not always on the same job site. If I elaborate more.. It would be in a private conversation with you out of ears reach of certain some ones on the Skype phone. I can say it makes a difference who writes the check to whom does not:/:
And I thank you for those easy tips about the choke thing and warm up. I have about forgot about some trouble shooting over 30 years. A refresher course is definitely needed. I really need to order that tach. I am going to start checking the RPM every morning on the equipment. Ounce of prevention is a pound of cure thing. ;) Will make my job a LOT less stressful!
 
With regards to honing a cylinder ,it's usually not neccessary on a plated one .

It might be beneficial if it has pulled a bunch of "tramp" aluminum from a piston but do so very carefully and sparingly because the plating is not very thick .

Now I know people brag on how tough the hard nickle plating is on Stihl cylinders but take it from one who knows you can cut right through .

I think Baileys might carry flex hones .You can use a 3M "Scotch-brite" pad and kerosine and get about the same results .
 
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  • #14
Thanks for the tip Al... I looked the flex hones up on Baileys and they only carry as small as 42mm. The cylinder is 40mm. So I will be shopping and looking for the right hone.
 
Yeah, I forgot about the catalytic converter mufflers as well. If you're running those things stock, full out, they will burn up. I'd be doing some muffler work on any new piece of equipment I bought before it ever got put into service. You HAVE to find a way to open the muffler a little to increase airflow. You can be as fancy or as simple as you like. A hammer and big nail to pound a couple holes in the front of the muffler will work if you're not able to get any fancier than that. Then make sure the carb isn't too lean and you're good to go.

I've never honed a small equipment cylinder. Like Al said, they are plated and the plating is very thin. If you aren't through the plating then it doesn't need honing and if you're through the plating then you need a new cylinder. Carl said that oven cleaner will clean up a jug really well.
 
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  • #17
Hmmmmmm.... Like I said the cylinder looks pretty clean so maybe the pad like Al suggested or oven cleaner will do the trick. Hey if the repair even lasts a season I am ahead of the game ;)
 
Brian doesn't know it yet but i'm gonna corner him in about 2 weeks with a carb screw driver an a coupla saws:/:
 
. Carl said that oven cleaner will clean up a jug really well.
Which is exactly what I should have done while attempting to salvage an 034 cylinder rather than attack it with a flap wheel .

What I have now is a nicely polished up door stop or large paper weight .
 
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  • #21
I will try to polish light with pad and possibly the oven cleaner. As I am going through these I will pick out what is best on them. Hey if I have to buy a cylinder I will still be ahead on one or two. looks like just a piston ring kit on this one with a carb. Carb is what I am hung up on now. I do not want to purchase local and it would probably be cheaper to have some one ship. Not like I have a lot of time to go running an hour each way for it anyway:|:
Off to work again today.....
 
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  • #22
With the truck situation today and then next two weeks being as hectic and expensive as they are going to be.... I will be putting this project on hold. Brian, find out what you can if you want or wait until I get back in town in June. If you do check, could you ask about the return spring on the carb 1123 122 3000 ?
We'll pick this up hopefully with some pics when things settle down about the second week of June :)
 
CSV,
If you want to send me that carb I will do an eval on it and see if it has any internal faults, fix if it possible, and put it on my FS 350 to test run it to be sure, since they use the same carb. I have spares and parts so if it is fixable I can fix it. I will even do a pictorial as I do it and post it here if the Boss doesn't mind trimmer stuff on the saw forum.
According to the current parts list there is nothing specific for CA for this model. I suspect that it may not be sold there anymore as the Carb standards have continued to tighten up, but I could be wrong. But the FS 250 never had a Cat muffler and the only carb is the S83.
Eddie
 
Thanks Eddie. My Stihl dealer told me the same thing today. I went and checked on the carb price for Stephen and they quoted me the same $100 price Stephen got in Cali.
 
Well then we need to check the carb out and make sure it needs replaced first. Maybe it doesn't. I showed how to do a pressure and vac test on one of my posts somewhere, and that is a must do for any two-stroke. I have seen people suspect a carb when it wasn't the problem, so all I am saying is that any running problem or failure requires a complete check for any and all faults before buying parts.
 
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