Spiking....

rangerdanger · Apr 28, 2009

Had a quick question in regards to spiking trees. Possibly this upcoming weekend I may be doing a small take down of a sweet gum. Tree is around 50' tall, with around 25 to 30 of that just trunk. It's around 24" DBH. We pruned it a year ago, so the top is nice and open right now. My question is, when you have the choice, do you spike or set your climbline and climb up. I've spiked a few trees, and this would be good practice, but those few times I've learned it seems easier if you have the option, to set your climbline and go up that way.(homeowners will also be watching, so I don't want to look like a complete idiot.)

MasterBlaster · Apr 28, 2009

It's always nice to have a line set and someone belaying you as you spur up, but you can just as easily go without it.

Mr. Sir · Apr 28, 2009

On a tree like that, I'd just spike up it... with a lanyard, of course.

SkwerI · Apr 28, 2009

24" diameter? Just spike up (with a lanyard of course). Use your lifeline as a second lanyard so when you come to limbs you can lanyard in above the limb before unhooking your other lanyard below the limb.

Brett, quit that.

woodworkingboy · Apr 28, 2009

The Brett lanyard:

Altissimus · Apr 28, 2009

Also RADA you will at times appear to be a complete idiot to the home owners it simply can't be avoided ... spike and safety that stem ... when you get to the limbs and set your line you will look like a seasoned pro ...

SkwerI · Apr 28, 2009

Go kick ass and take names, Adrian.

rangerdanger · Apr 28, 2009

Thanks!!! I think I'll set my lifeline and just spike up, while I'm belayed from the ground. My last couple of tries at spiking I was getting ok at it, where I didn't make a complete fool of myself.

Just have to get used to the feeling of standing on them for a while. Maybe a pair of Wesco's this summer will help with that!!

Jonseredbred · Apr 28, 2009

Knees out and short choppy steps.

Go kill it ranger

sotc · Apr 28, 2009

Adrian, the good news is that 2' diam is probably the easiest diam to climb. If you have a slack tender pully below your hitch let some one tend slack from your tie in while you flipline your way up. Keep your shoulders about arms length from the trunk, that will help keep your spurs in the wood at a good angle.

Mr. Sir · Apr 28, 2009

rangerdanger said:
Thanks!!! I think I'll set my lifeline and just spike up, while I'm belayed from the ground. My last couple of tries at spiking I was getting ok at it, where I didn't make a complete fool of myself.

Just have to get used to the feeling of standing on them for a while. Maybe a pair of Wesco's this summer will help with that!!

Spending ridiculous amounts of money on gear always makes ME feel better!

Maybe it will work for you too.

rangerdanger · Apr 28, 2009

Mr. Sir said:
Spending ridiculous amounts of money on gear always makes ME feel better! Maybe it will work for you too.

Spending a ton of money on gear is great!!!! That's how I get over a bad day, is to order some new gear.

rangerdanger · Apr 28, 2009

Thanks for the tip also Willie. I have a bridge extender that I use with my hitchclimber, so that should help keep my climbing system out of the way while I spike my way up.

I'm also happy I have Jerry's video. His spiking segment is great for beginners like myself!

Mr. Sir · Apr 28, 2009

rangerdanger said:
Spending a ton of money on gear is great!!!! That's how I get over a bad day, is to order some new gear.

Gord · Apr 30, 2009

Spiking really well is deceptively difficult, one of the hardest things in tree work to become really smooth at. Take your time and pay attention to every spike placement.

MasterBlaster · Apr 30, 2009

My only worry is damaging ropes.

sytherstrike · Apr 30, 2009

When I first started climbing a guy told me find a tree that doesn't matter if it gets hurt and spike up it a couple of steps, to where your only a foot or two off the ground. Then set your lanyard and walk in circles around the tree, do it until you can do it without using your hands. Once you get comfortable moving in the tree than going up isn't that hard. Also try to do it with out watching your feet, get used to knowing when the spike is set by the feel of it in the tree.

chucky · Apr 30, 2009

Interesting, but I'm confused about spiking "without using your hands."

C. Kirk · Apr 30, 2009

I still find my self using my hands now & then. I think it do to lake of time on my spikes.

MasterBlaster · Apr 30, 2009

chucky said:
Interesting, but I'm confused about spiking "without using your hands."

It's just an unusual move you master so you'll feel more at ease later in the Real World when you're doing it. I do it all the time working my way around a big cut using a larger saw- walking around the tree with both hands on the 044, 066, whatever.

C. Kirk said:
I think it do to lake of time on my spikes.

I agree.

sotc · Apr 30, 2009

MasterBlaster · Apr 30, 2009

Spiking, not fighting.

Burnham · May 1, 2009

Ranger, you might want to give this old thread a read through...lot's of discussion and good advice in this one from last summer.

https://www.masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?10695-Spiking-technique

treelooker · May 1, 2009

Just lean back and keep the lanyard taut so it does not slide down.

Flakey Foont learned how, but it took him a while.

squisher · May 1, 2009

treelooker said:
Just lean back and keep the lanyard taut so it does not slide down.

That makes it hard to move up too.

Spiking....

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