how to build a fence

Hello all

I want to build this style of fence in my yard. BUT have never worked on anything like this

DO i allow the wood to dry, I will be the one harvesting it from my place. I know to pre drill the holes. any other suggestions


thanks

I have never built a fence of that nature but based upon my experience with wood and outdoor projects I would say that it would be preferable to use green branches. It will be easier to drill and screw into, and as the wood dries/shrinks, the fasteners will hold even tighter.

And as some limbs crumble and fail, you can determine which types of limbs last longest and use those types of trees for replacement slats.

I bet Jay has some advice.

Got any Black Locust ? , or Cedar ?

Osage orange would be great. Red oak limbs hold up quite well. Apple does too. Mulberry is another.

Osage orange would look good and last. Cedar is the only other wood I see that holds its own. I know Locust has a good rep, but I sure see alot that has gone punk.

Interesting.

I would say just start screwin' it together with whatever ya find... when one "slat" rots and falls apart... finding a new one to replace it will be EZPZ...

Gary

Cedar for durability, Mountain Laurel/Rhodies for looks. Just my preferences.

Hmmm, whatever you use, I would make sure you keep the butt end off the ground at least an bit...it's hard to tell, but in the picture it looks like some are touching. Sealing the ends probably wouldn't hurt either.

I was thinking if dipping the ends in exterior paint and YES keeping them off the ground -

Right now, I have what is in the yard as starters, Sourwood will be the end post as the yard is full with that. I am also checking with the local tree guy and see if I can pick from his debris pile

Starting Next weekend and will take photos as I go. Need to learn how to use the drill.

+1 on the Osage Orange.we have fence posts here that are close to 100 years old and still standing.
Some guys I know find them and make Long Bows out of them,anything else will go to hell on ya as "90% of life on earth lives on or in the top 6 inches" according to marv,and he knows 91% of everything,Just ask him.
I did'nt notice what part of the country you live in.

Osage orange, black locust, red oak and believe it or not catalpa are among the longest lasting woods . Western red cedar or red wood of course last long but they are regional to the western states .

Black locust heartwood is excellent, but the limbs don't last long. Same with white oak.

The thought that green wood shrinking around screws will give strength, is based upon using green wood with dry wood, like a green seat shrinking around the dry legs of a chair, something that was done by the rural chair makers. This doesn't much apply to metal fasteners, and actually works in reverse, because the wood will shrink away from the screw head, and become loosened. I guess you could tighten them up from time to time, but shrinking around the shank of the screw won't gain any more strength, compared to a properly sized pre-drilled hole in seasoned wood, being the size of the screw shank into what is being screwed into. The holes in the uprights should be large enough so that the screw slips through with little resistance, and no slop.

I think it would be better to dry the uprights, a durable species as suggested, keeping it out of the hot sun and dry winds. Have extras so that you can toss the ones that don't make it through drying without splitting so bad. Dry slow to reduce splitting, that being out of the wind if possible, and keep them off the ground where air can circulate. Cut them considerably longer than necessary, and trim to length from both ends after the drying. You should be able to trim off the splits. Some species split a lot worse than others. Wood that dimension will dry pretty quickly anyway, unless it's some super dense species.

Green wood does drill easier without splitting, but with dry wood, using a sharp drill bit, and some precautions against splitting, like not being too close to the ends, you will be OK, then lubricate the screws with wax or soap, before driving them home.

Slapping on a coat of exterior preservative every year or so, with an anti-fungal ingredient, should give a good lifetime. Even with dry wood, you might want to go around and tighten the screws from time to time. The change in seasons will loosen up the fasteners.

My 2. Have fun!

Fence?

Nice tidy job.

Thanks WWB, only problem is she emailed me Sunday and said its too high, wants it shortened by 9 inches. Sheesh.

That sounds problematical

indeed. Client orders 8 foot fence with planter box atop. We build it. Client decides whe wants 7 foot fence with planter box on top. Sigh, she will of course be paying for the difference but they never seem to realize that since we are booked for the next few weeks, how much of a wrinkle a day of rebuilding something throws in to my schedule.

9 inches? That sucks.

Sounds like she can wait until you're caught up on your schedule. No need pushing somebody else off because she changed her mind after you did the work.

Paul B said:

Thanks WWB, only problem is she emailed me Sunday and said its too high, wants it shortened by 9 inches. Sheesh.

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You could probably do that with the rear handle 200, but I think I would rather use the 260; a faster, straighter cut.

Sometimes people change their minds when they better understand what's involved in modifying what has already been done. I'd lay it on thick, possibly she will want to reconsider.

I have started. the yard next to me is overgrown and i have permission to thin it. I took down a sourwood and will use that as my posts.
here are the post in the holes - not yet fixed. to much rain to get them setup . (now remember i do not use a chain saw, all my cutting is with a folding Silkey. (thanks treedude) - I have a person that is going to teach me how to use a drill and tomorrow we will start on cutting the rails and the slats.