Ice tail bridge on TreeFlex

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Thinking about replacing my TreeFlex bridge with Icetail splice. Locking brummel on one side, standard brummel on other.
Tail will be tucked for a total of 150mm through brummel and into finger trap.
Lock stitching on both sides.
What do you think regards safety ect??
 
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  • #3
I have a standard Alu ring sliding on the bridge. So your standard loads sliding side to side. Is there a better high BL. hollow braid that i could use?
 
I would cover it with the outer cover of a suitable double braid to protect it. Honestly, I bet 10mm beeline would work best.
 
I would cover it with the outer cover of a suitable double braid to protect it. Honestly, I bet 10mm beeline would work best.

This is a good idea. I've tried technora, vectran, and kevlar as bridge materials and they don't handle that shear loading/abrasion well at all. I really prefer polyester as my bridge material.

Covering your bridge as stated above will allow you to have the strength while protecting the fibers.

Will you share pics of what you make?

Welcome to the tree house!

love
nick
 
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  • #8
Thanks for the advice Wagnaw and Nick. I will get some Beeline ordered in. I've allready spliced the Icetail onto the TreeFlex will post pic soon as. Cheers
 
Welcome StarterSplice.

Seems like icetail and polyester would behave similar. I'm with those other guys on the cover though, I think it'll get trashed quick if you don't.

I've been searching for the perfect bridge too. This is my latest bridge mutation...

VectranBridge_1.jpg
VectranBridge_2.jpg



I made two Vectran bridges using HRC core with locked Brummels on both ends. Then i covered it with the jacket from some old Mammut kernmantle I had lying around, I've used the jacket from Velocity too.

A lucky side effect is that the bridge has a sort of oval crossection more or less like the original webbing bridge. Been using it about three months now. So far, so good.
 
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  • #12
That looks good!
Thinking about ditching the shackles and splicing straight into the webbing, hoping that this will stop the sliding Alu D from catching when turning side 2 side. What u think?
 
If that's what you want... I would be cautious about the possible wear from having fabric on fabric friction. Use of a smaller ring for the center Dee may help without removing the shackles. ...but no harm in trying and seeing if you like it.
 
I'd go with a locking brummel on each end. Unless there's captive hardware on each end and it's not worth unlaying the rope, I prefer the security.
 
I, thou not a splicer, but an owner of a TF, would not use ICE, as i think it is just to soft a cord. either blinky's suggestion, NICE looking bridge, or something with a cover.



That looks good!
Thinking about ditching the shackles and splicing straight into the webbing, hoping that this will stop the sliding Alu D from catching when turning side 2 side. What u think?

CONCERN - about removing the shackles - the leg straps/rings are attached there, where would you then attach those?

I agree that the standard bridge is stiff and the cover does bunch and at times cause the biner to bump as it moves as you turn from side to side.

Blinky's example, somewhat round would move, IMO, smoother.

OH YA

Welcome to the house
 
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  • #16
I've been thinking about the fabric on rope friction, maybe i could put a thimble in each eye splice?
Can eye splices take a 3-way load??
Here is a pic of the bridge.
If you guys think its bad then i will cut straight off!
 
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  • #17
here r some pics
 

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The thing I didn't like about the Treeflex was the shackles, the ring jumping across them during sideways movement was a little alarming I found.
 
The only problem I see is the potential for loading across the eye splice. Seems like I remember somebody on the Buzz doing a Treeflex bridge with thimbles and no shackles. Family Tree maybe?

I had a problem with the ring slipping over the shackles on my BFII. I switched from one big ring to two small ones.

The thing about a bridge is... if it fails, you're dead. It has to be absolutely bombproof if you want to climb confidently on it.
Eliminating the shackles makes sense, they're a potential failure point. I haven't found a good way to do it though; I just keep locktite on the threads.
 
here r some pics

Startersplice, I was on a different climbing forum where they were talking about some testing done on spliced eyes, whipped and stitched in use with friction hitch material. This showed failure rates well below the tensile strength.

Aramid fibers are self-abrasive so their use has been limited. Where they excell at surviving friction heat they fail miserably with repeated bending.

Also on a bridge you have to take into consideration that you are applying additional forces. Check out a sling chart and you will see that a sling used in a similar manner will have a multiplier of the forces that rise dramatically with an increased angle.

I would not use friction hitch material in a bridge application.

Dave
 
Startersplice- is plain to see that you've got the hand for splicing. It looks very neat and tidy. However, when dealing with a high modulus fiber, which are known to be slippery, I personally wouldn't feel comfortable climbing on the technora without a locking brummel on each side. The security from a non locking splice comes purely from compression, which comes from the amount of rope you bury. You sling is barely a foot long. Does the bury run the full length? The bury for that size rope would be about a foot.

How handy are you with leather? Maybe you could protect the webbing to prevent chafe?

Smooth design, though! I might have to borrow this idea for my treeflex.

Love
nick
 
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  • #25
Hi Nick, the bury is only 150mm / 6"
So not long enough from what your saying.
Getting bad vibes about the splice so i'm going to cut it off and start again.
How do you create a locking brummel on both sides with out opening the strands wide enough to poke the entire harness through??
If i re spliced with standard tenex and ran the bury full length 12" with a cover,what would you think about 3-way load ect...
Cheers all for the input
 
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