Welding a splicing anchor

NickfromWI

NickfromWI

King of Splices
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
4,992
Location
Snowless California
I am looking to have an anchor welded that could be bolted to the floor. I would use this to anchor my splices when running them home. What I have in mind is something like the picture below.

I have a guy I found on craigslist that works by the hour ($25/hr). I'm guessing that's cheap and he's probably not a super experienced welder. But this seems like a basic project that might be well within his skill level.

My intention is to bolt this thing to a concrete floor.

I was thinking to use 3" square pipe because I saw that at a hardware store recently. There might be something better to use.

I intend to have something like this welded to the top:
172-0.jpg


Questions I have for you guys:

Can a welder weld a stainless hook to a "regular" metal? (can you tell I don't know about metal?) :|:

What material would you make this out of?

How thick would you make the base plate? I'm thinking 1/4"

How long should it take this guy to make this thing?

How thick of a wall should I look for in the piping?

What, specifically, would be an easy hooked attachment method at the top? Welding a hook, bolting down a hook, drilling a hole in the top to screw in a heavy eye-hook?

I'm having it painted by this guy

love
nick
 

Attachments

  • splice anchor.PNG
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Ummmmm .....
I would simplify (thinking you want to work from your chair at table height etc.) by just having the anchor you have pictured that the welder is going to make include a 1/2 ring (d if you will) welded to it. Then you could use a regular biner in the ring with your splice.
 
3" square tube is overkill, considering they make 10K lb. trailer hitches out of 2" square.

And I agree with Stephen on not welding your carabiner. Use something like this and then clip your carabiner to it.

welded_eye_bolt_a.jpg
 
i like sthpehens idea with the d-ring. if the guy has scrap steel around just let him build some thing. tell him what you want to do and see if he has an idea before you thorw yours out, then if you dont like show him yours :dur: 1/4" is plenty heavy, 1/8" may be enough for the floor plate with 4 bolts and the 2 tubes. again 3" is definatley over kill, 2" schedule 40 may be just right for (even though its overkill) mounting a plate and ring to the top
 
3" 1/8" would be fine as well. 2"x.25" is fine, either has plenty of over kill.

Fwiw, it's tube, not pipe.

1/4" base is fine.

You could weld a ring on top, or if you wanted more versitility, tread the top so you could change out to different heads (pun intended).
Since you'll only be using it for splicing, I'd think a welded ring would be fine.

I don't see why I couldn't make it 30 minutes or less.

There's only 49" of weld in the frame, 61" if you cap the top, plus however you affix your ring/eye bolt. That might take 5 minutes to weld, skipping around to minmize distortion.

ETA:You could make the piece out of black pipe.

Pipe is measured by it's internal diameter and a schedule thickness. I've never seen square pipe. Pipe is used for water lines and poop pipes, amonst other things.

Tube is measured by it's outside dimensions and it's wall thickness in inches/mm. Tube can be just about any shape.
 
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  • #8
Why the hesitancy to put the carabiner at the top? I prefer something that can be connected and disconnected one handed. A stable biner would allow that. A biner clipped to a loop would not.

I understand that a loop would be easiest to make. But if I don't mind paying a little more for the parts and labor, is there a good reason to stick with the loop?

love
nick
 
Not really. It's YOUR project; have it made how YOU want it.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Cool. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't trying to break the sacred, "never weld a hook where you can put a loop" welding law.

I'm looking into having the thing powder coated!

Why not a hook? I need something with a gate. The gates on hooks tend I have retaining pins that are sharp and pokey and the gates themselves tend to have sharp edges. I can't risk something damaging your precious splices!!!

love
nick
 
Nick, as someone who hangs off your splices, I can thoroughly appreciate that statement!
 
NeTree said:
Yes, you can weld stainless steel to carbon steel.
Click to expand...
That plus braze it also if you know how .;) I kind of had to pictorially prove that point a while back to one of my Canadian buddies over the net . I brazed a 1" schedule 40 stainless tube inside a carbon steel socket fitting . Never underestimate the tenacity of old age .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14
I just had a revelation that I had to throw up here for your guys' consideration.

What about a pig tail at the top? I think I could really get down with that.

No moving parts, one handed operation, fast. Hmmm....

Whattya think?

love
nick
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #21
BlackSmith said:
Nick,
Is there any reason why you couldn't just screw an eye bolt into the wall and go from there..?
Click to expand...

Good question, but honestly, most apartment and home walls aren't strong enough to handle the abuse. Imagine finding a stud in your living room, screwing in a half-inch eye- bolt, connecting a 6' piece of room into it, then putting a 2 pound mallet in the end of the rope, hold the handle of the mallet, then taking full swing away from the wall shock loading the rope over and over.

Paint would surely crack, drywall would crack and fall to the floor. Not only that, it's very loud. The wall becomes like a drum.

I'm sure in some homes there'd be a way to do it. And I also recognize that the more you know about how homes are constructed, the better of you'd be at choosing said anchor. The anchor I want can be pulled out of the ground and the end of the lease, the concrete easily patched with quickcrete.

Drywall repairs are sorta expensive and security deposits are very precious!

love
nick
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #23
My initial thought was epoxy topped with sand or crushed concrete just to mask it...but either way. It'll be strong enough and leave little evidence when I leave.

Carl, remember that splice we did at the rendezvous in MS? We woulda yanked a stud outta the wall on that one for sure!

love
nick
 
And that's why I don't have drywall.

1" thick solid pine rough-sawn shiplap boards all over the house.

The trees I cut; sawn and shiplapped by Newfie.

You wouldn't believe how rigid this place is.
 
NickfromWI said:
My initial thought was epoxy topped with sand or crushed concrete just to mask it...but either way. It'll be strong enough and leave little evidence when I leave.

Carl, remember that splice we did at the rendezvous in MS? We woulda yanked a stud outta the wall on that one for sure!

love
nick
Click to expand...



:lol: 200' piece of Velocity that got nicked in the GDMFSOBA middle, +/-1'.
 
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