a few pics

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forestryworks

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a few pics of yesterday's snagfalling
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32" dbh and deader than a doornail

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this was 22" dbh and leaned hard to the right.
i put a chunk of wood back
into the face. it worked like a charm, swung it
right into lay.

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a freshly dead elm - no rot and the tops didn't wobble when wedging...
but i still didn't go pounding... just some firm taps

all the snags were on the edge of a creek bed which dropped off at 100% slopes anywhere from 10 - 20ft down...
and the creekbed was the only access to the snags because of all the greenbriar and thick underbrush.
alot of up and down the slopes - but it was a good workout.
 
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  • #5
sorry for the small pics - cell phone quality...

at first i didn't have a clue what masterblaster mean by underbed, but now i do
 
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  • #8
on the big dead stuff that i don't want to wedge, like the first three pics, i'll cut the face a tad under halfway deep so the tree goes over on it's own... "sawing lean" into the tree if you will.

each tree commands its own face depth, hinge width, etc.
 
Welcome forestryworks, just curious do you wear a helmet as you notch those dead suckers?? Im not too good about wearing one but would for them!!

Keep posting the pics.
 
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  • #10
Welcome forestryworks, just curious do you wear a helmet as you notch those dead suckers?? Im not too good about wearing one but would for them!!

Keep posting the pics.

i always wear a tin hat when i'm in the woods
 
Elm wood is quite resilient and elastic even when dead. As long as it is not decayed, of course.
A hinge works fine.

+1

Not sure about Europe, but in England, Elm was the choice of wood for wagon wheel hubs, water wheel flour grinding gears, and chair seats, because of it's resistance to splitting.
 
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