056 mag 2 question(s)

To finish this 056 I have been working on. I ran into a little stumbling block to finish the drive or clutch side of the saw.

I need some bar studs for the sprocket cover in the picture to fit. Right now the saw has m10/m8 studs. That cover is different from the one on the saw at this time. What I need is a m10/ m8 screw which is the same length as that new gold screw on the left which is m8/m8. I thought I bought the right stud till I removed the old stud. Are these still available from Sthil.??? I hope so or otherwise I have to go shopping for another cover. I like the cover in the pic because it has all the chainbrake parts in it and is almost like new. I didn't realize when I was buying parts for this saw that it does or can use two different type covers.

Except for the drive side to finish up on with some good parts. The saw is pretty well done. I have been running it and like it very much. Powerful old saw.

The only thing I don't like is it so hard to pull over. No decomp valve. Last I checked it had 150 lbs -155 lbs compression. This isn't a bad thing but more annoying than anything on the old arm. I would think with 150 lbs it would pull a little easier.

Other than compression and the engine isn't really broke in. The only other thing I can think of is that the timing might be advanced a little too much. The module in these saws is adjustable. Similar to a distributor only with not so much advance or retarding. There wasn't much to play with so I just set it in the middle. I have the timing numbers and can figure this out if the numbers are the same for a Mag 2 and a plain Jane 056 Which I suspect they would be.

Should I just run it some more and see if it loosens up or do I need to redo the timing???

Instead of putting this in the trading post. Anyone happen to have the bar studs I need for the cover pictured. I would like to replace both of them as the old ones are worn. Also could use set of clutch springs or just a good used whole clutch assembly.

Thanks

If I'm not mistaken the 056 is that tricky son of a gun you have to use a timing light on .

150 pounds on a gauge is not the hard part .Pulling over 93 cc is .

Is the bushing ok in the starter housing ?

I have a couple 056's in a box. I tmight take me a few days but I will check for you.

To my knowledge the bushing is ok. I didn't really check it out. The starter is a little noisy on retraction but I have had much worse. The starter works good enough for me at the present time.

93 cc's I didn't know it had THAT much displacement. No wonder it turns over hard. All I know is I had to find 58 mm piston and jug. Wow a diamond in the rough.

OK Al , you have my attention. Timing light on a saw. This will be a new one. Especially without a battery which my present and past timing light need ( needed )to have in order to check timing. Or do I just hook up to a 12 volt and mark a fin and let the light do the rest.

I have done Wisconsin engines so this isn't new but definately different.

I can wait Jonserd, I have waited this long a little more won't matter.

Aw heck Larry... just send it to me... I will give a loving home, and pull on it all the time...



Gary

Good one Gary A little guy humor never hurts.

According to the manual the points air gap is 13-16 thou . Advance is 26.2-27.5 .This corresponds to 98-116 thou before piston top dead center as measured by way of a dial indicator through the plug hole .

If I read it correctly the air gap is 7-11 thou on the coil .

If the points are not opened at the piston position the stator plate can be moved to adjust so .

Obviously if the timing were early then you move in direction of rotation to retard and opposite to advance .

Nothing was mentioned about an actual timing light ,my mistake .It was rather a static test using a continuity light .About like static timing an auto engine .


They also mentioned a solid state coil but not much more than air gap was mentioned .

Good info Al. Thanks for putting it up.

Unfortunately my saw doesn't have points. The 56 I have has a capacitor(?) dicharge type ignition. I think that is the type of ignition it has anyway. I did some homework on different types of ignitions awhile back but need a refresher and should go back and read up on the different types again.

The igniton module can be advanced or retarded a little,there isn't much adjustment but seems to be more of fine tuning and is no where near as involved as setting a stator plate with points.

The air gap is fixed, which is strange. The module can can go a little clockwise or counter clockwise but no side to side movement. The magnets are the inside of the flywheel. Once the module is bolted,screwed into place that is it no further adjustmentthat can be made. You can't even see the air gap. Unless I am missing something.

This saw reminds me of a 031 I had that did have the points. Took me a long time to find out the flywheel had little windows you could take out to check the points. It also had the magnets on the inside of the flywheel. I think

Strange animal this 056.

Ax-Man said:

The air gap is fixed, which is strange. The module can can go a little clockwise or counter clockwise but no side to side movement. The magnets are the inside of the flywheel. Once the module is bolted,screwed into place that is it no further adjustmentthat can be made. You can't even see the air gap. Unless I am missing something.



Strange animal this 056.

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I've been told the 056 Mag and the 2100 Husqvarna use the same solid state ignition system IE: internal coil .I'll say this ,my 2100 is the hardest starting SOB I have ever had the displeasure of dealing with .Runs fine if you can get it started .

if you have problems with the stud I may have the other cover style if it will get you going. I have a bunch of these saws in boxes around that I need to work on.

Thanks for the offer. PC I'll keep it in mind. Not looking good on that stud at the moment.

For now it is on hold till after the holidays. Seems everyone shuts down till after the new year due to vactions and what not.

I can wait. I have been running the saw with the old cracked cover. I don't like it but the saw isn't a full timer either.

Finally got the new mount for the handle in the mail and got it installed. That was a bigger pain running that saw with that slopped out almost non exsistent mount than the cover having a crack in it.

Getting closer to do some serious cutting.

Sorry, I don't have the 056 parts anymore.

Al Smith said:

I'll say this ,my 2100 is the hardest starting SOB I have ever had the displeasure of dealing with .Runs fine if you can get it started .

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I had a vision of you starting the SOB and muttering under your breath and my off Al. Sorry I .

Well regarding that 2100 I'll either get that bullheaded SOB to fire on command or I'll turn it into a cylinder block for a Toyota .:what:

Psst , I sometimes loose my patience with these things .:roll:

Build a kickstart.

By the sound of things that 056 needs one too . Those people must have been nuts to build 100 cc saws with no decomp ,good heavens .

Jonseredbred said:

Build a kickstart.

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HAHAHA No wheels included