question for stig short bar technique for open face or conventional notch

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  • #80
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This is an example of the plate cut. makes the short bar notch a little easier for me at least...
 
I don’t know if the terminology is right but you could cut a snipe in the angled cut as well Cory. Could’ve got that extra inch or two. Nicely done though. And coming in the work pics strong with a beast!
 
It's not about being a West Coast Faller, it's about being a good cutter. I use to teach rookie college kids for Americorps. They learned how to cut a hinge properly.

I've never, in my limited experience seen good fellers use the horizontal cut second method. I'm sure it works okay, but I'm a gonna stick with the regular, tried and true method for trees of real size.

That works great on reasonably steep ground and small trees/ big bars.
Doesn't work so well on unreasonably steep ground, muddy and rainy, and real work conditions out of the suburbs.

Isn't GOL like freshman and sophomore year boxes? IDK, I was trained by people who fell huge, flaming trees.

Slope cut first...Way to limited, imo, and not just mine.





That plate cut is not a special cut, that's just "cleaning up a face-cut" that want cut right. It's as simple as that. It is not a "cut" any more than any other beavering.



Learn to Humboldt.

Get yourself full-wrap handles-bars if you want a better to to use. Proper size dogs (didn't notice in this video).






Day 1 in the field for newbs (one guy I had on my crew of 9, felling hazard trees all summer was a Phish-head, rocket scientist, as in, he currently works for NASA), practice not needing a "plate cut", and if cut wrong "cleaning-up the face-cut".

Day 1.


Don't overcomplicated a round wheel and simple axle that rolls, turns, and bears a load at speed. The wheel is fine!!!!!!!!!! True story!!!!!!!!

If your really going to stick to those in-the-box GOL techniques, well, stay in your box.




When you want to jack a tree over, ya know, a big tree, do you still cut your sloping first, well second, after starting your back cut and cut your jack-seat? How does GOL do it, as they are logging trainers?
 
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  • #85
How does GOL do it, as they are logging trainers?

GOL teaches the open face, angled cut of notch first, then plunged back cut and back release..

To answer Butch's question... " I don't get it. Why not make the bottom cut right, to start with?"

There are a number of reasons.. I thought we've been through this already... lots of advantages... just showed one in the video.. can easily see the remaining cuts when the bar is short.. I would turn the question around and ask "why not use the plate cut"?.. It takes an average of 20 seconds make the initial cut.... That 20 seconds means nothing to me from a production standpoint. 20 seconds per tree may be a lot to Stig and production fallers, so they would not be interested in it..


But a rookie or noob can use the method to assure the face is clean with minimal falling skills. and How many times have we seen good sawyers fooling around with matching their cuts moving the saw back from one cut to the other, or banging out the face with a hammer. That is wasted time too. Often much more than 20 seconds.

If you don't think that you can benefit from the technique, then don't use it.. It works for me and there are others that have found value in the plate cut offering additional holding strength to the hinge due to the high fibers on the front of the hinge....
 
I don't use the "plate cut" for the same reason I ride a bike without training wheels. If you learn to ride, it's just a PITA to have training wheels.




I could make extra work all day, but why?




I had a little trouble linng this up, dead on, first cut. I was off by a kerf-width on this snag's face-cut.
Cleaned it out. Was a hair out of level, but hit the hole. IMG_20181204_112621645.jpg
 
I'm having trouble with the uploader and editing.

They wanted as many high stumps as possible, so I was cutting over my head with the facecut, then "snagged" the stump to mimic a natural fracture. A little gravy over a simple flat top or leaving a facecut. The thick hinge was ok for fiber pull as a snag. It was audibly breaking fibers with one guy pulling, in the secret special way, so I went to help, and we got it over. My mini wasn't needed, or unloaded, and we were running right to dark with the fell.

My 20" with real dogs just reached across... Didn't want to chase that cut... Trying not to eat sawdust down below the saw.


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Didn't get a good finished picture. I'm satisfied with how it came out. It was awkward, as I cut my spring board seats too open, so was down-sloping, without "corks". I didn't want to get a up there with an MS 461.

The snag is 12-13' tall.

]
 
My friend uses the material from topping conifers to build raptor nests on what becomes the new the top.





Eco-arbo stuff pays. I didn't do it that way for free.
 
The water front neighbor, two doors down, also wants a tall stump or three. And her uncle next door, at least wants a tree down.

Dropped her some chips, she stopped by with a big jar of home made salsa.
 
So raptors nest on a 12-13' fracture pruned stump?

No, just different eco arborist stuff. BIG firs.
He installs wildlife cams for WA Fish and Wildlife.
Got to expense a boat to do nests in a reservoir, recently flooded, or something.


I have 5 cavity nests in a snag at home.




Almost forgot

Dept Of Natural resources pays companies/climbers to create habitat snags in areas, too.
 
I hear you that there's demand for high stumps in your locale. But what about the raptors? I would've guessed them as high nesting birds?
 
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Dang, sideways sucks!



Yes thats what I did. If the face were taller I could have shoved the saw in deeper but I tend to avoid tall faces



:thumbup:
Can you cut the hinge with the bar on an angle, rather that horizontal, fitting the power head into the facecut. The powerhead would be up and bar tip would be down, maybe 10⁰ or so.
 
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