View Full Version : 200t oiler
No_Bivy
02-20-2008, 07:34 PM
being a saw retard..:D.........how do I get to the oiler in a MS200?
Skwerl
02-20-2008, 07:39 PM
it's behind the sprocket and clutch drum. ;)
squisher
02-20-2008, 07:51 PM
You rinse the tank thoroughly already, make sure nothing's blocking the pick-up? I like to add some gas to the oil tank heat things up and create some pressure before tearing into things. Then dump the gas out and back to straight oil of course. :/:
No_Bivy
02-20-2008, 07:55 PM
yeh...several times.....Is it behind that black rubber thingy?
squisher
02-20-2008, 07:59 PM
being a saw retard..:D...
Then give yourself more credit.:drink:
Skwerl
02-20-2008, 08:04 PM
Pm me with your email and I'll send you the parts list. It shows a complete breakdown so you can see what goes where.
stehansen
02-20-2008, 09:44 PM
Looks like a lot of lttle thingies.
MasterBlaster
02-20-2008, 09:50 PM
I'd like to see the space shuttle blown apart like that.
Ax-Man
02-20-2008, 10:27 PM
Looks like a lot of lttle thingies.
Lot of expensive little thingies for what they are.
I wonder what a MS 200 would cost if you bought each individual piece and made a saw out of all the parts. If it is anything like a car it would triple the cost.
squisher
02-20-2008, 10:29 PM
I bet atleast triple.
MasterBlaster
02-20-2008, 10:30 PM
Anyone remember Jennes? He worked in a Stihl factory in Germany. I always wondered if he could pilfer his way to building a complete saw.
Paul B
02-20-2008, 11:20 PM
here ya go Boss:
http://www.columbiassacrifice.com/images/tech_overview/struct_fus/Fus_Struct_ISO800.gif
for more details: Shuttle stuff (http://www.columbiassacrifice.com/&0_shttlovrvw.htm)
MasterBlaster
02-20-2008, 11:32 PM
That's just the fuselage, nergo!
Al Smith
02-21-2008, 12:14 AM
I might add that these little gems are also a royal pain the butt to wrench on .Although not as bad as most little saws.
As a general rule in my little part time working on Stihl saws more times that not if the oiler is not working properly it is something on the suction side of the system.Depending on the saw it could be a gasket,cracked pick up line etc.Some times if you run part of a tank full of kerosine or diesel through the system they clear up but not always.
Some times if you run part of a tank full of kerosine or diesel through the system they clear up but not always.
Really ??? :eek3:
Seems like running it for more than a few seconds like that would get it hotter n' a 2 dollar pistol ???
No_Bivy
02-21-2008, 07:24 AM
PM sent Brian. Al, in the tank, I dont see anything funky. I'll try some deisel in there.
OTGBOSTON
02-21-2008, 08:19 AM
Anyone remember Jennes? He worked in a Stihl factory in Germany. I always wondered if he could pilfer his way to building a complete saw.
kinda like that Johnny Cash song........8)
Al Smith
02-21-2008, 09:30 AM
Really ??? :eek3:
Seems like running it for more than a few seconds like that would get it hotter n' a 2 dollar pistol ??? You take the chain off T .You just run the light distilate through the oiling system in an attempt to get the funky out,if there is any. If you want to run the chain,use auto tranny fluid .Just some old down on the farm type stuff.;)
squisher
02-21-2008, 10:01 AM
I like to add some gas to the oil tank heat things up and create some pressure before tearing into things. Then dump the gas out and back to straight oil of course. :/:
:drink:
my oiler stopped workin the other week,i tried an airline through the tank and the exit to no avail.just part filled the tank with mix and run it without the bar and chain on,hsaking it at the same time and hey presto it was workin again
Magnus
02-21-2008, 01:20 PM
Rip it of and clean it out properly!
If needed clean with gas in there, but it is likly clogged in tube and if it doesn't oil at all there will be no flow to rince anything out.
High Scale
02-21-2008, 04:17 PM
I take the pump off, spin the gear, clear out any crap in the gear threads, blow out the line.
Sometimes I soak the pump in engine degreaser.
Mr. Sir
02-21-2008, 05:31 PM
That's just the fuselage, nergo!
Here ya go, Butch. A bit of light reading for bedtime. http://www.columbiassacrifice.com/techdocs/subsystems/SubSys_Guidance_Navigation.pdf :|:
No_Bivy
02-21-2008, 07:54 PM
Im goin' in...............................:/:
need any help just ask, i took the oiler out and the cleaned everything monday on my 200 at work. Did it on the bumper of the bucket truck :)
No_Bivy
02-24-2008, 05:56 PM
Thanks Brian for the diagram.....Al, you were right, intake hose completly clogged with shat. One blast of air = all better:D Thanks yall8)
Skwerl
02-24-2008, 05:57 PM
All due to those stupid caps that cause all the crud to fall into the tank every time you fill it.
:|:
Glad you fingered it out, John. :thumbup:
Al Smith
02-24-2008, 06:18 PM
Someone once said on one of the forums a cheap paint brush is the best thing you can do for yourself regarding saw maintainance. Brush the chips away from the caps before you gas or oil them,Good advice although most including myself don't do it . Hell I would lose the brush ,no doubt .:(
Skwerl
02-24-2008, 06:21 PM
Al, these caps aren't the same as the old caps from the 70's like what you are used to. A brush doesn't work with these new flip caps on the new Stihls.
Al Smith
02-24-2008, 06:44 PM
Well, I have some made in the 80's if that counts for anything:|:Ha,I know what you mean,I've seen those goofy caps. I wonder what promped them to do that deal??
Skwerl
02-24-2008, 06:45 PM
Al, I'm sure if you go back in the archives of any of the chainsaw forums, you can find lots of discussions on those caps from about 5 years ago. Perhaps you may want to catch up. ;)
MasterBlaster
02-24-2008, 06:54 PM
Somebody go bump my "New Caps" thread at AS, lol!
Al Smith
02-24-2008, 10:27 PM
Somebody go bump my "New Caps" thread at AS, lol! Well,the amount of people that could preform that act are a little bit limited,ya know.;)
those caps are a good idea that needs re-thunk
squisher
02-24-2008, 10:45 PM
Those caps suck. I had zero issues with the old ones, zero.
MasterBlaster
02-24-2008, 10:48 PM
It would be amazing if they would go back to the original.
Freaking amazing!
Ax-Man
02-25-2008, 07:23 AM
I'll go along with majority opinion about those caps that are now standard issue for a pro Sthil saw. I cussed a blue streak when they first came out and the engineer who thought the darn things up.
Having saws with the old and the new style caps in the same saw box. I would vote in favor for the new style caps because of the toolless feature which is a big plus when it comes time to refuel and add bar oil. You don't have to go in search of a scrench to open the new caps. This is not a big deal but does save a little time and a step in the procedure to gas and oil up a saw.
Both style caps have their flaws. The new ones don't work right all the time because of the extra parts inside to get them to lock down and can only go on one way. The old style that use the scrench would get egged out in the middle if the scrench was not applied right. Even if they were applied just finger tight they are hard to get off come refueling time and still need a scrench. Sometimes you couldn't tighten those caps without a scrench or they work loose.
Personally I liked the old ,old style hard plastic ones with the ridge across the top for your fingers to loosen or tighten. Those weren't perfect either as those caps could also work loose and become lost.
I think the new style caps are a good feature but needs refinement.
Let's not be coming down so hard on Uncle Al, the brush idea is an old idea for sure and may not work so good on the newer Sthil caps but a little on site cleaning around the oil and fuel caps is better than none at all. Just getting the coarse build up around the outside of the cap will keep that crud from falling into the oil tank when the cap is removed. I still carry a stiff parts cleaning brush around in every toolbox that is used for on site saw maintenance.
MasterBlaster
02-25-2008, 08:11 AM
Al's idea has merit. And I don't mind needing a scrench cuz I like to clean the air filter when I refuel.
Frig those new caps. It outta be an option.
Al Smith
02-25-2008, 08:48 AM
I have a few older saws that use an oil cap that is the same size as a lawn mower engine. Easy to remove and if you lose the danged thing to can get one at any lawn and garden shop in the country for a buck -2.98.What a novel idea .
squisher
02-25-2008, 10:04 AM
I never used a scrench to put on my gas or oil caps and rarely to never needed one to get them off. Put them on nice and tight by hand and with the way they were oversized they would come off by hand as well. As I said zero issues I never 'wore' one out or had any problems with them at all.
RIVERRAT
02-25-2008, 10:22 AM
I have not had the issues that some of had with the new caps. I do like the old style better
thats the way i am to justin, but as soon as someone else runs your saw they bar wrench it tight
Al Smith
02-25-2008, 10:40 AM
I've got a few somebody layed the scrench to.Why I have no idea but it makes it tough to get them loosened up .Actually they should be replaced but I never seen to think about it until I'm cussing trying to lay the oil to them and no scrench in pocket .Kind of stupid laying profanity on an inantimate object but it seems to work for me .:|: My wife says I act nutz at times,she just thinks it's an act,fooled her .
Blinky
02-25-2008, 06:01 PM
I think dog cussing stubborn stuff like that brings out our super powers... The Human Scrench!
No_Bivy
02-26-2008, 07:33 PM
oiling like a mofo!!!:D stupid spark arrestor got clogged. Anyone run one without?
Skwerl
02-26-2008, 07:39 PM
My next door neighbor has a 2 year old Echo blower. It's been running worse and worse for the last 6-8 months and this morning I saw it in his garbage can at the curb, next to an empty box for a new POS blower. I picked it up and this evening I removed the spark screen. It was completely clogged solid. 2 pulls and she fired up and runs great! Free blower!!!
:D
Oh, and none of my saws have screens in the mufflers. The 200T screen is also a restrictor, so removing it is like an instant 'ported muffler' job. You may need to readjust your carb to compensate for the better flow and increased power.
Cobleskill
02-26-2008, 07:51 PM
I think your neighbor must not know how to mix or maybe old mix? I have screens in place for years with no buildup. I did take them out recently though. Probably cause of info like this.
No_Bivy
02-26-2008, 08:18 PM
I hear it aint good on the ms200's. I used to take em out of my 020's though...pre 98's. saw shop hype? They also say the 200's are gonna be replaced in the next year or two? WTF...no way?
arborworks1
02-26-2008, 09:22 PM
Dang I hope they have a really good replacement. That little saw has made a serious following.
Skwerl
02-26-2008, 09:25 PM
Sorry John, but I respectfully disagree. What you've heard is biased info based on what dealers are required to say in order to remain in compliance with emissions restrictions. When you want to learn how to make your saws run stronger, cooler and last longer, just ask. And your dealer isn't allowed to tell you the truth.
MasterBlaster
02-26-2008, 09:46 PM
No screens here.
i have mine, in a can somewhere:)
Al Smith
02-27-2008, 11:59 AM
Removing the screen in most cases is the easiest way to gain power.Tweek the carb a tad bit and you're good to go .
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