hitchclimber

[OTGBOSTON]

Anybody use this cool little pulley? In the second pic I have it attached to a length of 1/2in which puts it far enough away from me to bodythrust without me having to advance my FH in a seperate motion. The first pic is how I would normally use it while working a tree. Anybody use it a different way?

[No_Bivy]

that is one funky eye splice on that rope...........whats up with that?:/:

[OTGBOSTON]

I knew that would come up:|: It is a f'd up looking splice I know. Stanley Longstaff rewhipped it for me about a year ago for free. He had already packed up his stuff but still took the time to fix it, pretty much sums up the kind of guy he was. I added the blue cord to keep it tight on the 'biner
I will keep it for sentimental reasons but my new tachyon is on order;)

[No_Bivy]

8) sorry it stuck out there.............Have you used this pulley for the "M"

[OTGBOSTON]

8) sorry it stuck out there.............Have you used this pulley for the "M"


Don't apologize, it's ugly, I should have known better than to buy an eye that wasn't tight around a biner and was too small to be gerthed on.

The M, nope haven't tried it

[Wagnaw]

8)...Have you used this pulley for the "M"

I have, and it works great. My only thing is that when you've got slack in the line, it likes to fall down low, which makes you need to bend down to reach the tail and pull out the slack. I like it overall though.

[No_Bivy]

back to the books Wagnaw................:lol:

[Wagnaw]

... I am soooo ready to graduate. :whine:


...busted again. :P

[NickfromWI]

I like my hitch climber so far. I've been using it off and on since tophopper traded me for it a few months ago.

I looked at the rope pic for a second and thought you were climbing on a line that had 3 whippings and no knot (or splice)! I forgot about that color of Fly for a second there.

Now hit the books!

love
nick

[squisher]

If somebody had a pic or a link of the 'M' set-up, some of us less technically advanced types might be interested in having a looksee.:/:

Heh I haven't been able to get out much, I've come lightyears already.:D

[Bodean]

Without, that blue eye and eye (hip thruster) girthed on the krab is doesn't flop around alot? When you're "thrusting"/climbing?

[OTGBOSTON]

no, it stays taught because there is no "slop" in the system8)

[OTGBOSTON]

I looked at the rope pic for a second and thought you were climbing on a line that had 3 whippings and no knot (or splice)! I forgot about that color of Fly for a second there.


love
nick

speaking of bad splices. I bought a beeline fh that had two eyes that flop around on the biner. why would anyone sell stuff like that?

[TreeRhino]

Ever have any problems with the FH getting stuck beneath your anchor/splice? I used the same setup with the mickey mouse pulley for a while but abandoned it when my VT got stuck and wouldn't grab. Was wondering if the hitch climber was any better.

[TreeRhino]

Also, I always used a loop runner. bit more compact

[Hollywood]

If somebody had a pic or a link of the 'M' set-up, some of us less technically advanced types might be interested in having a looksee.:/:

Heh I haven't been able to get out much, I've come lightyears already.:D

Two Tie In Points, one rope, one friction hitch. http://www.treemagineers.com/downloads/hitch_climbers_guide.pdf

In these photos, I'm using the wiregate Revolver carabiner for the pulley. Just trying that configuration. I normally use a locking krab and micro pulley.

[MasterBlaster]

Lotta ropes!

[Mr. Sir]

Lotta ropes!

Just one.

[squisher]

Interesting, thanks!8)

[Ace76]

So where can I Buy one of those pulleys?

[sotc]

i always thought it was 2 hitches, i learned something today and its only 7 oclock, thanks

[squisher]

Yah so with that 'M' and one hitch it's going to keep you centered between your two TIPs no?

[Hollywood]

If you were to hang in mid-air between the two TIPs, theoretically you would be centered in the "belly". When working in a tree; limbwalking for instance, the system is self equalizing within a certain radius (though I'm not sure it's technically a radius) based on the length of rope between you and the TIPs. As one "side" gets shorter the other gets longer. You can move within this zone without touching the hitch. Take in or let out rope to change the distance, but it still naturally equalizes to your position.

[OTGBOSTON]

I like the M hollywood, gonna give it a go tomorrow.

Here's my hitchclimber with the new tachyon and beeline, definately looks better, and more importantly works better:D

[NickfromWI]

speaking of bad splices. I bought a beeline fh that had two eyes that flop around on the biner. why would anyone sell stuff like that?

Simple- they don't know and they don't care. They are just in the business of selling stuff. As long as people keep buying it, why should they bother changing?

I know I loose a few jobs here and there because I try to find out the person's climbing style and try to match them up with the BEST thing for them. Sometimes they just wanna click "order now" and have the thing show up....only to have it floating in the bottom of the tool box a couple months later.

I've yet to try the M system yet. I think I should, though!

love
nick

[OTGBOSTON]

Simple- they don't know and they don't care. They are just in the business of selling stuff. As long as people keep buying it, why should they bother changing?



Thats actually the hitch I was complaining about. I taped the eyes smaller, then dipped 'em in liquid electricians tape, all good now!

[NickfromWI]

From the look of it, that beeline hitch cord should be a lot shorter than it is. Don't you have to pull the hitch down a few inches before any slack is advanced?

[OTGBOSTON]

yup, about four. I think if it was too short the spliced end of the climbing line would intefere with the hitch.

[No_Bivy]

is the red sling to back up the swivel or something?:/:

[OTGBOSTON]

is the red sling to back up the swivel or something?:/:


it does that but it is there because when 'let out' I can thrust by hand over handing while the hitchclimber advances my hitch.(see first two pics)

[TC3]

So where can I Buy one of those pulleys?

Welcome, Mr. Ace !!!
Come join our arguments ! Har !!!

[Frans]

You have the orange webbing strap girth hitched to the swivel which means that the webbing strap is pretty much always attached to your saddle.
Did you do this so you would not have another biner/link in the system?
It seems like I would want to be able to take it off easily.

What do you think?

[OTGBOSTON]

Its always there but by girthing it onto the bottom it stays out of the way when I want to move my fh closer to me by hooking up to the upper part of the swivel. Make sense? sometimes hard to explain even with pics..

[Frans]

Yes it does make sense (at least to me) but then you have a loop of webbing flopping around on the front of your saddle. Seems like it could get caught up in something or even get in the way of your french prussik...

[OTGBOSTON]

no hinderances yet.....

[squisher]

When you change between the out and the in position how do you normally make that transition?

[rumination]

I'm not touching that one...:|:

[OTGBOSTON]

When you change between the out and the in position how do you normally make that transition?

Just have to be on a limb or something to put a little slack in the system and unhook (or hookup).

[squisher]

That's what I was figuring just wanted to know if there was any tricks/tips for doing it on the line was all.

I really like the looks of that set-up.

[OTGBOSTON]

I really like the looks of that set-up.


It works greak for big prunes with lots of up and down and long limbwalks. Its sort of a version of Beddes' "secret weapon" just a little more functional in everyday work IMHO.

[squisher]

Well I think I may just have to hunt down one of these pulleys. Great pics and descriptions everyone.

[top hopper]

Just have to be on a limb or something to put a little slack in the system and unhook (or hookup).



You are "bucking in" for the transition I hope?!

[OTGBOSTON]

Best practice, though not completely necessary.

[TreeRhino]

yup, about four. I think if it was too short the spliced end of the climbing line would intefere with the hitch.


Be careful when thrusting or footlocking a long way. The friction hitch, especially a french prussik, will get caught under your anchor and not set. Not a big deal if you can reach your knot, but definately something to be aware of. I used to use that system, but with a mickey mouse pulley and abandoned it when i had a few scares with my hitch getting stuck. Works better if your anchor is a tight spliced eye rather than a knot, but will still happen. I have a new system that I've been field testing for the last few months that I like. It's a bit gear intensive, but it works.

i set up my regular system (anchor hitch, french prussik) then attached to the middle point on my Versatile i attach a caribbeaner and two foot loop runner. On the other end i have it girth hitches to the lower attachment point of a Croll with another caribbeaner on the upper/side attacment going to a quick release microcender. Microcender goes to anchor side of rope, Croll to ascending side and it's all backed up by prussik. I'll get some pics tomorrow. It's working pretty well. I can unhook in mid air if need be but usually get to a limb first.

[OTGBOSTON]

Be careful when thrusting or footlocking a long way. The friction hitch, especially a french prussik, will get caught under your anchor and not set. Not a big deal if you can reach your knot, but definately something to be aware of. I used to use that system, but with a mickey mouse pulley and abandoned it when i had a few scares with my hitch getting stuck. .

definately takes some time to get it dialed in. I've had a few scares myself:) With the tachyon and bee line it works much better than the fly and tenex. I use a distal hitch, which also helpls grab more.

I'd like to see that system you are describing

[top hopper]

Best practice, though not completely necessary.


I assume to "switch over" you must open the bottom carabiner and remove it from the swivel eye. Is that not the same captive link that holds the loop runner.

So in essence, without bucking in, and making the "switch" you are not secured in for a brief second or two.

[NickfromWI]

I had a version of this system that I could switch from long to short without ever being "unclipped.

I tied my friction hitch, then connected it to a pear biner, along with my spliced end of my climbing line. Let's call this the hitch-biner. On the bottom of that hitch-biner is a 30" sling with a carabiner at the end of it. I clipped that to the bridge on my Master II saddle. The whole setup is now floating 30" from the bridge on my harness.

There is ANOTHER 'biner floating on the bridge. We'll call that the bridge-biner. When I want the sytem short, I bring the hitch-biner down and open the bridge-biner, so now the hitch is floating just a 'biner's length from me. When I want the system long, I open the bridge biner again and let the bridge extend up to the end of the 30" sling.

I'm always secured and I can extend and shorten the system while hanging in mid air.

Does this one need a picture?

love
nick

[OTGBOSTON]

you know we love pics Nick!

I was trying to switch mid air, tuff to do!

[top hopper]

I had a version of this system that I could switch from long to short without ever being "unclipped.

I tied my friction hitch, then connected it to a pear biner, along with my spliced end of my climbing line. Let's call this the hitch-biner. On the bottom of that hitch-biner is a 30" sling with a carabiner at the end of it. I clipped that to the bridge on my Master II saddle. The whole setup is now floating 30" from the bridge on my harness.

There is ANOTHER 'biner floating on the bridge. We'll call that the bridge-biner. When I want the sytem short, I bring the hitch-biner down and open the bridge-biner, so now the hitch is floating just a 'biner's length from me. When I want the system long, I open the bridge biner again and let the bridge extend up to the end of the 30" sling.

I'm always secured and I can extend and shorten the system while hanging in mid air.

Does this one need a picture?

love
nick


Good remedy Nick,

My only problem with that, is now you have a biner to biner link. Which is not really great in my eyes.

[NickfromWI]

Agreed. Not great...but I liked it.

different topic- but why is biner-biner frowned upon, but biner to the little friction hitch rings (that people put on their bridges) is okay?

love
nick

[top hopper]

Agreed. Not great...but I liked it.

different topic- but why is biner-biner frowned upon, but biner to the little friction hitch rings (that people put on their bridges) is okay?

love
nick

Good question!

My guess would be because of the possiblity of crossloading.

[OTGBOSTON]

easy enough to put 'em side by side....

[top hopper]

How so if they are linked to each other?

[OTGBOSTON]

if I'm understanding it correctly the "hitch biner" could just go directly onto the bridge next to the sling biner.

[NickfromWI]

To do so would require you to open the hitch-biner. The reason I was doing it this way was that the hitch biner was never opened- I never needed to lanyard in to adjust the system.

love
nick

[fallguy]

If you can get picture up it would be great for a rookie with a limited imaganation.

[OTGBOSTON]

To do so would require you to open the hitch-biner. The reason I was doing it this way was that the hitch biner was never opened- I never needed to lanyard in to adjust the system.

love
nick

I get it now.

I toyed with a microscender and a length of prussic cord as an adjustable linc but found it to be too much gear.

[TreeRhino]

definately takes some time to get it dialed in. I've had a few scares myself:) With the tachyon and bee line it works much better than the fly and tenex. I use a distal hitch, which also helpls grab more.

I'd like to see that system you are describing

Pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jamesndossett/Gear

They were too big to upload, sorry.

[Wagnaw]

The best way to really appreciate the M-system and the hitch climber is to get up in a tree with a big wide flat top. Also, if you can reduce the friction, it's way nicer too. That's my big complaint... when there's alot of friction, it's a HUGE pain to move around cause you end up pulling alot of rope when you're moving back up.

[MasterBlaster]

They were too big to upload, sorry.

Just steal them. :/:

<img src="http://lh3.google.com/jamesndossett/R-mEPJt1RjI/AAAAAAAAAec/gFgutzYrE9E/P1010223.JPG.jpg?imgmax=512">

[TreeRhino]

[QUOTE=MasterBlaster;215493]Just steal them. :/:

<

Thanks

[MasterBlaster]

Just steal them. :/:

<

Thanks

Quote my post to see how I did it. Quote this post to see how I fixed you errored quote. :drink:

;)

[Frans]

steal it again and flip it, and lighten it!

[Drella]

OTGBOSTON,, I haven't thought about the DropKick Murphys in quite some time--- seen it on your wall in the background!


Just got my HitchClimber today! I'm so excited to go out and use it, but I'm sure I'll get plenty of opportunities to do so soon.
I'm now going to have to sit and think up new ways to confuse myself with all the new possibilities this opens up!](*,)

[NickfromWI]

I got mine (I think from tophopper as a trade...I don't remember exactly) and it gets regular use. I don't use it on every tree, but I keep it close by, in case I'm feeling frisky.

[OTGBOSTON]

lol, you did get it from tophopper! :/: I read it in the beginning of this thread:lol:

[NickfromWI]

lemme go look

[NickfromWI]

Man...how time flies.

[OTGBOSTON]

my basement is still a mess:)

[DMc]

Two Tie In Points, one rope, one friction hitch. http://www.treemagineers.com/downloads/hitch_climbers_guide.pdf

In these photos, I'm using the wiregate Revolver carabiner for the pulley. Just trying that configuration. I normally use a locking krab and micro pulley.

The M redirect is a pretty fancy piece of rigging. I have always liked the looks of it because it is clean. However, you do need to be aware of the ramifications of the above statement: "Two tie in points, one rope, one friction hitch."

If in use you are down in a work position, 20 ft from each TIP, and either one of them were to fail you have a LONG drop. There are four lines coming from the hitch climber, if any one of those are cut, you are going for a fall.

With a traditional redirect, whether tail-tied from your own rope or use a second rope, there is a redundancy; if one fails, you are still tied in.

There have been a rash of accidents lately involving TIPs. When using redirects, we generally use them high in the canopy or out on a precarious limb. And being a redirect it is not only experiencing direct load but side load as well.

So be careful.

Dave

[Drella]

Just practicing the video posting skills,, for the sake of everyone here, I finally got it!...:D



<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ydt-hUT6aGE&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ydt-hUT6aGE&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

[OTGBOSTON]

New twist on an old theme. I've seen this done with a ropeman, and an extra 'biner.
I just added a slipknot, and ran the spliced end of my rope through my swivel..

[Burnham]

That works pretty slick. Tight radius at the swivel, but it wouldn't worry me to climb on it. Nicely done.

[OTGBOSTON]

Thanks B!

I just re-read this thread, looks like I got the HC this time last year. It only took me a year of fooling around with it to get to the stripped down version:)