Root Pruning Kit

[NickfromWI]

I want to put together a kit/toolbag of things to have available when removing/fixing girdling roots. I've done quite a bit already by using whatever tools I have available to me- pruners (which get sharpened a lot!), hand saw, then the rest are crude tools that shouldn't be near the base of a tree (hammer...screwdriver...).

I'm thinking having a chisel or 2 or 3 available would be nice. And 2 brushes...a big one to move handfuls of soil at a time, and a smaller more precise one for cleaning out crevices between roots so I can fit my pruning tools in there.

Are there some obvious things I am missing here? What size/shape chisel would be best? I'm thinking something short would be easier to handle. Also, most chisels are shaped like this: ] on the end...and maybe one shaped like ) would be better?...or like the ] but with rounded edges?...then, I've seen some that are scooped (like if you cut a drinking straw lengthwise)...

Any thoughts? What do you use?

love
nick

[Old Monkey]

I don't have a rounded chisel. I use a 1/2 chisel and go through several times at different angles to get a rounded effect. I would add some sort of clawed digging device.

[top hopper]

I use....

A root pruning saw,
1/4", 1/2" and 1" woodchisel set
small mallet
small hand trowel
small gardening claw
3 piece brush set
kneepads

I keep it all together in a small wooden crate

One thing Ive been meaning to add to the kit is an ergonomic hand trowel, (the one Rainbow tree sells)

[Ax-Man]

I was over at the U. of Minn. website checking out something and they had a little section on root collor excavation using a garden hose with one of those wet/dry shop vacs. I don't know how good it would work but sounded like a good idea at least for the smaller trees. There was some other tips there too.

[Paul B]

pulaski? I have a mini pulaski type thing, felco #4 (the old ones), silky root pruning saw, I think its pro sentei? maybe gomtaro with the funny blade, a couple of plastic hand trowels and a hose end sweeper nozzle (directs the hose water through an opening about 1/4" wide).

[top hopper]

I was over at the U. of Minn. website checking out something and they had a little section on root collor excavation using a garden hose with one of those wet/dry shop vacs. I don't know how good it would work but sounded like a good idea at least for the smaller trees. There was some other tips there too.



Ive considered the shop vac.....

[billcutstrees]

An axe.:D

[NickfromWI]

Is this the root pruning saw y'all're (I love the double contraction!) talking about?

http://www.silkystore.com/Secure/eCommerce/Catalog.asp?prdc=12

love
nick

[Paul B]

Gomtaro 240mm dual blade, fine and coarse teeth . :) but the one you show is probably fine Nick. its a saw you need to admit is going to get beat up cutting in dirt is all I figure.

[treelooker]

I start with a 200t. I;'ll be showing a vid of it in use on a chestnut root friday morning. seminars are boring, HAH!

nick a chisel with a right angle can be useful. A loppers is essential. why dull your felcos in the dirt. seldom have the angle to stroke a saw.

[NickfromWI]

Post the vid for us!!!

[Mike Maas]

Cordless sawz all.

[JonnyHart]

I lost my root pruning saw, but it was very different than the silky. It was a very rigid blade, no flex at all, and had a very sharp point for good ground penetration. Worked nice for cleaning out the little tire pokers on the atv trails.

[Stumper]

My low tech improvised root chiseling system consists of a fiberglass handled Fiskars Hatchet that is SHARP an my axe for driving felling wedges. Set the Hatchet blade where the cut need occur and tap on it with the back of the Axe. Voila! Beautiful cleavage.

[ArborOmega]

small short handle (12")hoe
small short handle(12") maddock
1/2" - 3/4" chisel
fine and hard bristle brush
felco number 4 old style
claw hammer

most important tool is a camera so when I give public talks I can show pictures and remind arborists that if they want results above ground they gotta work below ground

[treelooker]

small short handle (12")hoe
small short handle(12") maddock
1/2" - 3/4" chisel
fine and hard bristle brush
felco number 4 old style
claw hammer

most important tool is a camera so when I give public talks I can show pictures and remind arborists that if they want results above ground they gotta work below ground

yeah the brush is good to have. re claw hammer if the claw is straight it is more useful. i will try posting the vid here
nah its too big:big-tongue4:

[MasterBlaster]

So upload it to YouTube.

[NickfromWI]

Though a bit expensive, and I know the $8 kit from lowes would work fine, I found these chisels that I like.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11345

I like that they are shorter...easier to haul around. I think I am going to get 2 of them. Maybe a 3/4" and a 1/4".

love
nick

[NickfromWI]

Though I know the $8 set from the hardware store would work fine, I found these chisels I like: http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11345 I like that they are shorter (I guess that's what make them "butt chisels?"

Guy, you make a good point about the straight clawed hammer. I've used the claw as sort of a pick axe to break the root apart so I could pry it up. It would have been a lot easier with a straight clawed hammer sharpened like a chisel.

love
nick

[NickfromWI]

I'm thinking this for the root pruning saw: http://www.silkystore.com/Secure/ecommerce/details.asp?prdn=476

Any thoughts?

love
nick

[treelooker]

I'm thinking this for the root pruning saw: http://www.silkystore.com/Secure/ecommerce/details.asp?prdn=476
Small enough to maneuver into a cutting position. Handle formed so hand should be secure when cutting. Dunno how teeth are--they look small and close together so they may clog, and will they stay sharp after getting down and dirty?

[NickfromWI]

That's one of the things I am wondering...Do I want fine teeth or large teeth.

They do have one version that is supposedly resharpenable...but honestly, I don't see myself settling down for a 2 hour session with the silky and a file.

The other thing I liked about this little yellow one is that it's only $26!

love
nick

[NickfromWI]

Guy, it's 4 in the morning!!! Are you just getting up, or are you STILL up?

love
nick

[Paul B]

if you want to spend Silky price, have a look at this one Nick: http://www.silkysaws.com/gomtaro240rc.htm
http://www.silkysaws.com/images/gomtaro240rootcut.jpg

[NickfromWI]

On their website, that is labeled as being sharpenable.

love
nick

[TC3]

An axe.:D

No, really. A good tool to have, fo' sho'.


I don't have a rounded chisel. I use a 1/2 chisel and go through several times at different angles to get a rounded effect.

:scratch:
A rounded affect for what ? I'm not getting it ?

[Frans]

Forget all that hand saw crap.
Buy a cordless sawz-all

[ArborOmega]

Nick why not just use chisels. They are disposable and cheap. I can get through a good size root in a matter of minutes and not have to excavate all that extra dirt to use a saw. The only thing I dont like about the sawsall is that the reciprocation of the blade is not even and you can get some ugly cuts, whereas the chisel is typically nice and clean. However a sawsall would be significantly faster. And the blades dont cost what silky baldes cost.

[Frans]

metal cutting blades can make a smooth cut.
But yes, having the end of the blade slam into the dirt is a hassle, so ya gotta dig a bit.

[Mike Maas]

Chisles are a pain. Not that they don't have their use, they are slow. Sometimes to get a root off, you need to make several cuts. The sawzall blade just pokes through dirt like it's not there, but it does take a steady hand when you are up against another root or the trunk.

Cordless tools are awesome. Pick a good brand and size and stick with it. Then if you need a tool, you can go on eBay an just buy just the tool, get a toolbox at walmart, and use a battery from an existing tool.
If you don't own a sawzall of some sort, you're really not a man yet.:P

[NickfromWI]

I need a kit that can be used while walking around sites with hundresds of trees (schools, neighborhoods, business centers, etc) A sawzall might work, but would not be feasible to carry. A chisel will be slowe, but easy to lug.

love
nick

[squisher]

Eh? We carry chainsaws around why couldn't a sawzall be carried around?

[Frans]

I need a kit that can be used while walking around sites with hundresds of trees (schools, neighborhoods, business centers, etc) A sawzall might work, but would not be feasible to carry. A chisel will be slowe, but easy to lug.

love
nick

Nick, if you are doing an evaluation, then the basic tools for revealing defects are necessary. Such as a small hand trowel, amongst other tools such as: Clineometer, microscope or jeweler's loupe, increment borer, GPS, etc. etc. etc.

When you do evaluations, you must not alter the existing features of whatever you are examining. Should you cut a root, and their is a failure, it will come back to you.
So if you want to cut roots, then get the right tool for the job. It should include a Forester's or surveyor's vest. They have numerous pockets for all those little tools and then a good bag which you can hang off of your shoulders to carry heavier items such as a hammer to test soundness.

JUst a thought....

[Paul B]

surveyors vest (usually has a special pocket for increment borer) for stuff and perhaps a carpenters belt for hammer, mallet, mini pulaski...

[NickfromWI]

This particular kit will be for going around sites and just seeking and removing crossing or girdling roots. The organization I work for hasn't been very keen on getting great nursery stock in the past...sort of a "heck...it's free...we'll take what we can get" sort of mentality. As a result, we constantly find trees suffering or dying...often times I also find major root issues down below.

I want to be able fix the issues before they become problems. We're training volunteers to go out with me and the rest of the tree care crew to find roots like this and "fix" them!

love
nick

[Paul B]

my consult gear, not root pruning specific is in a rubbermaid bin at home/office. depending on what I expect to encounter or what the job scope is I tailor what I carry to the field. Normally i take tree # tags, aluminum nails, rubber mallet, mini pulaski, 30X lighted magnifier, binoculars, rite inthe rain notebook and pen, DBH tape, digi camera and tool belt to hold the stuff. Other stuff I have if needed: GPS, Silky root pruning saw, pick axe, caliper guage, pressure nozzle for garden hose, digital sonic distance meter thingie, long drill bit for drilling and looking at sawdust, set of four little scratching tools (suggested by Bob Wulkowicz a few years ago), bright pink "HAZARD TREE REMOVE" tape and a roll of yellow "CAUTION" tape, compass (for the clinometer thingie built in) and uhm a can of red log marking spraypaint. :D
Wish list: Increment borer, clinometer

back at the office a number of good books and.... a link to the Treehouse for advice! :D

[Frans]

Nick, carrying a cordless sawzall is surely a great way to quickly cut those roots. It is not too heavy, and gets the job done efficiently

[Chisel Tooth]

What's wrong with the battery powered sawzall?

[Frans]

What's wrong with the battery powered sawzall?

:?


Nick: I need a kit that can be used while walking around sites with hundresds of trees (schools, neighborhoods, business centers, etc) A sawzall might work, but would not be feasible to carry. A chisel will be slowe, but easy to lug.