Sharpening

[brendonv]

I have to admit...I am horrible at sharpening chainsaw chains. Is there any tool to help me get it right, then phase away from the tool eventually? I have read somewhere about "pferd" or something like that.

I have never really gave any interest in the saw, as long as it's been sharp, clean air filter, and gassed up, that's all I have every cared. I recently got a new chain and realized I can never get it to cut as good from out of the box. That new chain ripped ass too, I'd like to get them like that.

Tips, tricks, advice.

Thanks!

B

[Skwerl]

When I was starting out, I couldn't sharpen chain very well either. At first I was paying the saw shop to sharpen my chains but they usually burnt the crap out of them and ground off too much. Of course that had nothing to do with the fact that I'd run them until they couldn't cut any more.

So then I bought one of those $35 dremel type grinders that clips to your truck battery. Then I was Da Chit because I could grind my own chains on the job! 8) I used that for about a year and a half to two years. But the stones were expensive compared to files and I was getting better at keeping my angles right. Then once I started using files I realized that a sharp file could file as fast as the electric grinder.

Been using files for the past 15+ years and never used any type of guide other than the scribe mark on the top of the chain tooth (Stihl chains) and my eyeballs. Read the literature from Oregon and Stihl on chain sharpening. Focus on the 3 angles and identify them on your chains, both new and used. Once you can 'see' what a sharp chain should look like then it's simply a matter of using the file to make the dull tooth look correct.

And as an old tree guy told me many years ago, it's like masturbating. Just get the right stroke and keep repeating it until the job is done! :lol:

[OTGBOSTON]

There is nothing better than a sharp chain.

keep practicing.:D Some of those guides are good but really your eye is the best judge. The only thing I use a gauge for is setting the rakers. and the most important thing to remember is that a well used chain should out cut a new chain every time.:D

[Mr. Sir]

And make sure you use a SHARP file.

[OTGBOSTON]

And make sure you use a SHARP file.

good tip. I'm sure we've all tried to sharpen with a file that was found at the bottom of the toolbox, covered in chips and bar oil;)

Advice I once got from an oldtimer: "It's much easier to file a chain correctly when you're in the shop with a proper vice and have a nice coctail to sip on" "It really sux to file a chain on the jobsite"....

[squisher]

Biggest thing I can recommend for learning to file and for safety is never use a dull saw. Stop and file as soon as you've lost your razor edge, do not use it until it can't barely cut anymore. A dull saw is extremely dangerous, extremely!

I have a strange way of filing but it works for me I hold the saw on my lap and hunker down right over it, then I flip the saw backwards so my stroke/angle is the same and same hand running the file. This works for me although I've never seen anyone else do it. Find what works for you and don't be afraid to expirement a little.

I never used gauges/guides hell I don't even use a handle on the file. For rakers(which are very important to keep your saw biting well) I just lay the flat file across the tooth I'm checking and the tooth in front of it(on the same side of the chain) and visually check the 'gap' looking for abouts a dime's thickness of light between the file and raker.

Evenness all around is key to cutting straight and smooth.

[squisher]

Here's a pic of my backasswards filing. I file one side like that and then flip the saw 180 to do the other side. I know bloody Canadians.:D

Damn it almost makes me cry seeing my old Chevy in the background. Atleast I still got the beautiful kiddo though.

[GASoline71]

I learned to file free hand from my gramps and other old loggers... I have gotten decent at freehand over the years... no guide or jig needed.

There is a small file guide you can use called a File-O-Plate.

They are made by Carlton... Bailey's sells them. Super cheap and EZ-PZ to use. It not olny helps you get the angles right, it helps in filing on the riders at the proper depth. However they don't work on skiptooth chains... so I have no use for them...

Here is a link to the ones at Bailey's store... Carlton File-O-Plates at Bailey's online. (http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=kw174&catID=273) Just pick the one for the size of chain you have. They are pretty slick.

Or there is the Filemate... Sold at Bailey's online as well... (http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?PageNo=2&SKW=kw174&catID=273http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15225&catID=273)

Gary

[Frans]

silvey 510. 8" grinding wheel so no burning of the tooth

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=45575&catID=

[GASoline71]

Yep... that's a great inexpensive way to sharpen chains Frans... :roll:

Gary

[Frans]

8)

[sotc]

like squishy said, find your own comfort. i like to sit indian style with the rear handle tucked in and the bar on top of my legs. i find the worst tooth and count how many strokes it takes to clean it up, then every other tooth gets the same amount of strokes. i file with out a handle also but switch left hand, right hand, left hand. brians angle pics are good, the file tang shoul be a little lower than the end.

[treesandsurf]

I've found that putting the chainsaw onto a vice and being able to use both hands to sharpen makes a huge difference. A friend showed me how to use the roller file guides and it helps a lot as it forces the file to sharpen the upper portion of the tooth rather than digging into the side and bottom part when doing it by hand.

Half way down on this page they sell them:

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/chaintoolfile.cfm

jp:D

[MasterBlaster]

...rather than digging into the side and bottom part when doing it by hand.

I always lift up as I file.

[Greenhorn]

vice is key for me, been "getting by" doing it for a couple of years and then it just clicked - my groundie said stuff was sharper than new all of a sudden. Just gotta learn to feel when the angle is right with equal abrasion on both sides of the tooth.

[MasterBlaster]

I gotta have a vise if I'm gonna be accurate with the longer bars. I'm sure ya'll have seen my set-up.

[Al Smith]

In the woods I just cut down into a round ,sit behind that thing and file both directions ,over the top .It seems to work better for me .

[Burnham]

I try real hard to only file in the shop, on the bench with a vise and GOOD light. I much prefer to carry a couple of spare chains for all three saws all ready to go and change them as needed, so I can avoid field filing. Trying to do it quickly under pressure to get back to cutting always ends up being likely to produce poorer results for me.

I hand file, and it might be that I'm the only guy here running chisel tooth chain and filing with a six-sided flat file. Few are dumb enough to even try. :|:

Now this takes a whole 'nother level of learning to do worth a toot over round filing. In fact, I can't really recommend it unless you already are quite good with a round file. Three different angles to hit precisely, simultaneously, and continously through every stroke.

I don't even know that I can say doing so gives you measurably better cutting chain for day-in day-out saw work over round filing a chisel cutter. But I figured that there had to be a reason the chain manufacturers built 'em that way, so I try to keep 'em the same.

[Al Smith]

It's just a matter of preference I guess . I know trimmers that prefer to carry extra chains and have them resharpened by a shop .Doesn't make sense to me but to each his own .

In the overall scheme of things the secret is sharp,no matter how it's done .

[Big A]

I just try and get them right in the vice in the workshop, using a roller guide as mentioned above. Then if they need a light touch-up in the field, then I know the angles are going to be pretty spot on. I also use the dremel type device for longer bars to get the worst nicks out, then finish with a file, rather than burn too much into the cutters.Also I always check the depth gauges in the workshop, I hate to do them in the field!!

[Blinky]

How many sharpenings are you guys getting from a file? Seem like I can never get more than 3 or 4 with a 20" chain.

[Al Smith]

I have no idea how many .I buy them two dozen at a time and they just end up in a drawer or coffee can when they get dull,for whatever dumb reason I save them .:?

[Burnham]

How many sharpenings are you guys getting from a file? Seem like I can never get more than 3 or 4 with a 20" chain.

Sounds about right...my only saw with SUCH SHORT bars is the 200T :P:lol:, but I guess I get about the same, maybe a little more...sharp files certainly make the job soooo much easier.

If you keep the files stored where they don't get banged up, and blow/brush the filings out of them you'll get some bit more life from them.

[GASoline71]

I only get about 3 - 5 sharpeings too... I keep my files seperated in the box by sliding them in drinking straws. Saves them from gettin' banged around in the tool box. Not sure if it really helps... but I do it anyways.

Gary

[TheTreeWiseMen]

I've had this little gizmo for years 'n' years. Sticks on your bar with 2 magnets and the criss cross lines are all 35* on one side and 30* on the other side. Keep your sharp, clean file in line with the lines on the gizmo......et voila, all your top plate angles are sharpened to exactly 30 or 35 degrees. I was taught to start with the most knackered tooth first, no more than half a dozen strokes on each tooth and to tap the file periodically to lose the filings out of the rasp. In the top photo you can just make out the number 35* in the top left corner of the gizmo.

[Mr. Sir]

That's pretty slick. Where can we get one of those gadgets?

[TheTreeWiseMen]

That's pretty slick. Where can we get one of those gadgets?

Ha! That's the big question......I was looking on line (before I went out to the job site and took it out of the truck) and couldn't find one anywhere. Maybe someone over on Arbtalk could find one for you and ship it from the UK.

[Husky D]

Hi guys, new to the forum. Agree with all the advice and would just add little and often is best (yes i am talking about sharpening!) never let your chain go dull as it takes so long to get them back compared to a few light strokes to put the profile back. If you have to take your cutters back a long way due to damage use your file handle to knock of the chrome burr to stop it peeling off. I usually sharpening free hand in the wood but never be to proud to use a vice in a workshop to get them back accurately and if you do use the file guides available make sure to touch them on your top plate and on the raker so you gullet the tooth properly.
Looked in for a while now but taking the plunge and posted so hope its not telling you all something you all ready knew.

D

[Skwerl]

Welcome to the party, D. Glad to have you. :)

[brendonv]

Thanks for all the advice. I am ashamed to say the file I have been "trying" to use is from last year! No wonder why these things won't get sharp.

I am going to go buy a box of files for each my 200t and 460 chain. Can anyone confirm the following...I need a 4.0mm file for the 200t, and 5.5mm file for the 460. I should probably pick up depth guages too, anyone know the correct sizes for each?

[Blinky]

Good advice HD... don't be a stranger.

[TheTreeWiseMen]

5/32 for a 020 or 200T, can't remember the others!

[Skwerl]

5/32" for the 200T (3/8" lo pro)
and 7/32" for the 460 (3/8").
Pick up a cheap wooden handle or two also. I prefer the small wooden handles over the big obnoxious plastic handles, but maybe try one of each and see what you're most comfortable with.

[brendonv]

Do you know the depth guage settings Brian?

[Skwerl]

Actually, no. I just eyeball my depth settings the same way as Justin and others. When the chain is filed about 1/3 of the way back and quits biting as well, I'll take 2-3 swipes off each raker. Then again about 2/3 of the way back I'll do it again.

I also prefer a bench vise to hold the saw when filing (you guys saw the setup I made for the hitch on my old bucket truck). I don't have a vice on the new truck yet so I try to do all my filing at the shop. Rakers only get filed in the shop on the bench vise.

In the field I'll just use a stick or small chunk of 2x4 to stick under the bar so I can keep the saw steady.

[Burnham]

You can buy one at your Stihl dealer for not much...works on all chain sizes.

I got one in a tool kit that came with one of my bigger saws, I'm pretty sure...maybe you did too and don't recognize what it is?

[Burnham]

I also prefer a bench vise to hold the saw when filing (you guys saw the setup I made for the hitch on my old bucket truck). I don't have a vice on the new truck yet so I try to do all my filing at the shop. Rakers only get filed in the shop on the bench vise.

In the field I'll just use a stick or small chunk of 2x4 to stick under the bar so I can keep the saw steady.

If you have a decent sized round of wood, or a stump, just cut a kerf a couple inches deep it that and set the bar and chain in it...keeps it right steady. A bit awkward to lift and advance the chain around to get to the teeth, but a solid platform to sharpen on.

[Skwerl]

You're showing your age, Burnham. I haven't gotten a free depth gauge with a new saw purchase in over 20 years! :lol:

[Bowtie]

This may have been posted to death, but I use a Granberg file and joint on all my chains. It has spoiled me on hand sharpening. My angles are always true, and I end up with razor sharp chains. I set my file depth a little lower than most, so there is more hook than say a new stihl chain. Therefore I end up sharpening a little more on full chisel chains. Semi chisel for the dirty stuff I use maybe less hook than most, so they dont cut quite as fast, but keep the edge longer.

[Stumper]

Brian, First you tell us that filing is like masturbating and then you tell us that you prefer small wooden file handles. What are we supposed to think ? Why did you poison our minds with this excessively personal imformation?:P

[brendonv]

Tonight I mounted a vise on my chipper...it's at chest height and I find it helpful seeing it at my face than bending over. I found a box of files I had for my 200 chain and I'll be damned new files are the shit. I don't know why or how I have been using old files.

[Al Smith]

.I need a 4.0mm file for the 200t, and 5.5mm file for the 460. I should probably pick up depth guages too, anyone know the correct sizes for each? Well I suppose that's the sizes if you are metricly inclined . 5/32" and 7/32" respectively .

Now that deal of how much mileage you get out of a file,it won't be nearly as much if you filing hard as rock Stihl branded chain .That damned stuff is about as hard as tool steel .

[Will]

I have to admit...I am horrible at sharpening chainsaw chains. Is there any tool to help me get it right, then phase away from the tool eventually? I have read somewhere about "pferd" or something like that.

I have never really gave any interest in the saw, as long as it's been sharp, clean air filter, and gassed up, that's all I have every cared. I recently got a new chain and realized I can never get it to cut as good from out of the box. That new chain ripped ass too, I'd like to get them like that.

Tips, tricks, advice.

Thanks!

B

Hi brendonv, I sharpen all my companys chains on a bench chain grinder. Cant beat it for consistancy. It takes a lot of skill to operate one though. I think lots of people try one and it doesnt work first time for them so they give up. Also iv tried the Pferd tool you mention and found it files the depth gauge/rakers down too far. I wrecked a chain finding out.The one i used was for 200t chain.

[TheTreeWiseMen]

That's pretty slick. Where can we get one of those gadgets?

http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products/climbing.php

TT488 Filing guide - plastic with magnet. It seems to be the one! Thank Pete Mctree, he found it....

[squisher]

I never used gauges/guides hell I don't even use a handle on the file. For rakers(which are very important to keep your saw biting well) I just lay the flat file across the tooth I'm checking and the tooth in front of it(on the same side of the chain) and visually check the 'gap' looking for abouts a dime's thickness of light between the file and raker.

Evenness all around is key to cutting straight and smooth.

This will work if you don't want to buy some gauge to lose or have to use, adjust your depth for what you're typically cutting. More of a 'gap' is of course a more agressive bite.

And like Brian said when the saw isn't 'biting' 2 or 3 strokes with a flat file should be all you need. Just remember same as everything with a chain to keep it even.

[Ax-Man]

I have no idea how many .I buy them two dozen at a time and they just end up in a drawer or coffee can when they get dull,for whatever dumb reason I save them .:?

Your like me Al, just can't throw them files away for whatever reason. It is not like they are going to quit making them and won't be able to find them. Never know though hard times may return and you might have to reuse those files because you can't afford new ones :lol::lol:

I have found them old files to be useful around the shop for filing inside of holes in mild steel.

Not to contradict previously posted info. The correct file for Sthil chain if you have the regular 3/8th's pitch for the bigger saws is 13/64th's dia. It is an oddball size. 7/32th's will work. That file size is for the .404 pitch chain.


Average depth gauge setting for just about all Sthil chain is .025 thou or 0.65mm. The Sthil mini narrow kerf is 0.46 mm without looking at my metric conversion chart I would guess this to be about 0.20 thou.

Glad to hear your getting your own customized set-up for chain sharpening Brendon. One of these days if I ever feel brave I am going to take some pics and show my own set-up for in the shop bar maintenance and chain sharpening with some different tools I have aquired. It is a little on the overkill side but has made improvements in my chain sharpening.

[lumberjack]

Larry is right on the 13/64's for 3/8, but IMO just go with 7/32, the 1/64" (.0156") extra helps me.

[Al Smith]

Not to contradict previously posted info. The correct file for Sthil chain if you have the regular 3/8th's pitch for the bigger saws is 13/64th's dia. It is an oddball size. 7/32th's will work. That file size is for the .404 pitch chain.


Well that fact doesn't surprise me in the least bit.The right way,the wrong way and the Stihl way . Great stuff but typicaly different by design . Oh damned good chain chain also but real pricey .Then again it's tough stuff ,most likely the best if you want to pay the price .

I do have a couple of loops of it and will say it really stands up .One is a 24" loop of .404 on a Mac super 44A that even after 4 years of occasional use I've never laid the file to it .Then again it's nearly 50 years old and doesn't see much action . On the other hand I'm 60 years old and see a lot of action .:|:

[Jamin Mayer]

For the field I use this. http://www.acehardware.com/largeImage/index.jsp?LargeImageURL=http%3A//ACE.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE3-4024904dt.jpg

For bad chains (hit hidden rock or metal) I use a grinder. I've got this.http://www.right-tool.com/or10begrwas.html

[DTW902]

I carry extra chains for all the saws, and change out when they start getting dull. I sharpen all my chains in the shop on the chain grinder. I use borazon wheels and sharpen a bucket full at a time.

[Cobleskill]

I think not dragging the file on the backstroke makes them last longer. Also banging the chips out. Oily chain makes the chips stick to the file, so if I have the time and patience sometimes I swab out the teeth with a rag first to get the oil off.

There is a flat stamped sheet metal guide I used for a couple years. It helps you develop an eye for angles and depth. I finally tossed it and went to freehand.

[MasterBlaster]

I think not dragging the file on the backstroke makes them last longer.


Heck yea. I see someone do that and I think :|:

[fallguy]

If you take a peice of standard blackboard chalk and rub the file on that it will keep from filling the teeth also. I do this when I sharpen broadheads. I think you would have to clean the chain first or the oil and chalk would get to be a gummy mess.

[Frans]

I use borazon wheels and sharpen a bucket full at a time.

I've got a Borazon wheel. Expensive (300 bucks), but they cut the tooth, rather than grind the tooth. And dont seem to heat up the tooth either. But, they don't cut very smooth.
Also they last a very long time. I have had mine for a couple of years and it cuts just as good today as when I bought it.

[Al Smith]

For what it's worth all grinding is a form of cutting .

A wheel,whatever it's made of will not burn if it is clean .It's when it loads up with grinding residue that the actual burn comes into play .

If you had ever been around any industrial grinding operations you would know exactly what I'm talking about .

[DTW902]

I've got a Borazon wheel. Expensive (300 bucks), but they cut the tooth, rather than grind the tooth. And dont seem to heat up the tooth either. But, they don't cut very smooth.
Also they last a very long time. I have had mine for a couple of years and it cuts just as good today as when I bought it.

Frans I get my wheels from these folks. Last time I ordered some they were on sale for like 80.00 bucks. I have had good luck with them they cut cool, smooth, and last a long time.
https://shop-foley-belsaw.com/foley/5.cat

[Frans]

Thank you Dave

[brendonv]

Well, my new vise works tits! Along with a new file, because the vise is at chest level, I can get the angle's better it seems. Saw's were ripping today!

[Burnham]

You're showing your age, Burnham. I haven't gotten a free depth gauge with a new saw purchase in over 20 years! :lol:

Damn!...and I've been working so hard to keep my age from showing, too...:D

[Burnham]

You're showing your age, Burnham. I haven't gotten a free depth gauge with a new saw purchase in over 20 years! :lol:

Damn!...and I've been working so hard to keep my age from showing, too...:D

That must be why my depth guage is looking a little the worse for wear :).

[Burnham]

You're showing your age, Burnham. I haven't gotten a free depth gauge with a new saw purchase in over 20 years! :lol:

Damn!...and I've been working so hard to keep my age from showing, too...:D

That must be why my depth guage is looking a little the worse for wear :).

Now that you mention it, I recall being underwhelmed with the tool kits from the last few saws...

[Al Smith]

They make a "stump " vise for those inclined to use it.I've got one made by Stihl,someplace but I know not where in all my junk .

[Cobleskill]

It always suprises me how many people who should know better drag the file on the backstroke. Same thing with a hacksaw or hand carpenter saw. Not that we use those tools much anymore.

[Al Smith]

Not that we use those tools much anymore.--only as a last resort in my case .

[Paul B]

I have a Husqvarna stump vise, cant tell you how well it works, I have only used it twice, not enough to form an opinion :shifty:

[brendonv]

I've got the Stihl one too, it's a nice vise.

[Al Smith]

You just clamp the thing on the bar,near the end and rest the saw on a log or something,back of the pick-em-up ,whatever .

[Burnham]

Al, I think the idea is to hammer the vise down into a stump or round of wood, stabilizing it. The slot at the top of the points alows a pry bar entry to remove it.

[MasterBlaster]

I guess you could do it either way, eh?

[Frans]

What does the cutting on a saw tooth is the very thin layer of chrome. The body of the tooth is soft steel.

When you file, you cut the tooth into the proper shape/angle(s) etc.
As you push the file through it's stroke, the outer layer of chrome peels away.
This peel (like an orange rind) peels backward and generally stays hanging on the tooth.
Flicking it off with your finger nail, or lightly dragging backward through the stroke does not effect the way the tooth cuts, only removes the peel of chrome.
If you are dragging the file forcefully, it will perhaps dull the file and broaden the cutting edge. Which will make the chain cut slower.
IMO

[Burnham]

I guess you could do it either way, eh?

I reckon you could, Butch.
:)

[sawinredneck]

You guys sharpen chains?
Crazy!! I thought once they got dull you just chucked them and bought new!!!





















Nah, I kid!! I carry spares with me as well. Rocked out chains see the grinder, then a file. I have an old bar I cut down and ground out. One side is .050, the other .063. Pop it in the vise and I am good to go.

[Skwerl]

Brian, First you tell us that filing is like masturbating and then you tell us that you prefer small wooden file handles. What are we supposed to think ? Why did you poison our minds with this excessively personal imformation?:P

Wow. I'm impressed with how much good information has been consolidated in this one thread. And no insulting or condescending remarks, except for Justin's here. :what: At least everybody else has been willing to put forth helpful and useful information.
























:P

[Jamin Mayer]

Anyone think I'm crazy? I bought some ABN Cyclone Wheels today. The first time I have ever bought some.

My rationale for purchasing them are as such:
Faster Grinding
Less heat (cooler grinding)
It will keep its shape
No fine particulate matter in the lungs

Today I had my groundie sharpen about 20 chains today. I heard him coughing. I don't know if the grinding was irritating him or not, but it was "the straw that broke the camel's back" for the purchase.--I've been wanting to get them for a while now, and today was the day to get them.

Please tell me I didn't make a foolish decision.[-o<

[stehansen]

Jerry B's book was pretty helpful to me.

[Al Smith]

Today I had my groundie sharpen about 20 chains today. I heard him coughing. I don't know if the grinding was irritating him or not, but it was "the straw that broke the camel's back" for the purchase.-- Just as a precaution any time you do any type of grinding it's a good idea to have plenty of venilation . It's not a bad idea to wear a mask although most of us don't to be quite honest about it .

[Jamin Mayer]

It's not a bad idea to wear a mask although most of us don't to be quite honest about it .

True. I had a box of masks ready for him, in fact, in front of him, but he didn't grab one. After a couple of hours I finally took one out and told him to put one one.:what:

[Tom_Scheller]

I can never find a way to sharpen comfortably. I seem to be able to throw wood around all day without a problem, but 10 minutes stooped to touch up a chain and my back is aching. Even at home I can never seem to get comfortable, worse part of my week for sure.

TS

[C. Kirk]

I do most of my sharping at the job site by hand.
I like this for sharping at home. Work on all size files.

[Skwerl]

Hey Brendon, how's the filing technique coming along? Did you pick up some extra files when you bought that 361 the other day? :)

[brendonv]

Technique is def. getting better. The vise on the chipper is def. a setup I am comfortable with now. At chestish height, it seems I can get my angles right more consistently. I blame this on being able to see it closer, instead of bending over on a bench vise. I found a couple files I had bought a while ago, using old files def. was one of the problems.

[Jamin Mayer]

I tried the Cyclone wheel with one chain the other day. Wow! It cuts the grinding time in half and it's clean.

I'm glad I bought the wheel.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=AB6+18&CAT=

[sotc]

just need one in 8" diameter now

[brendonv]

What's the reason I get this little spot where the arrow is pointing that doesn't get hit by the file? As I understand it has no impact on performance, I just don't know if my technique is screwy?

[MasterBlaster]

Too heavy handed, and pull up a bit as you push.

[lumberjack]

I'd say it's what's left of the original grind on the chain.

Get a picture from the other side, looking straight at (90* to) the "hook" of the cutter (other side of the tooth please), and another picture straight down on the tooth. From the looks of it, that's nearly perfect! :) :thumbup:

If he was making a gullet the angles of that and the angle of the rest of the filed area would be the same, and there's no marks on that area from the file.

[brendonv]

Too heavy handed, and pull up a bit as you push.

I'm def. pulling up, thats why I thought this was happening. I'll go take a pic.


I musta moved when I was taking the first pic...

[sotc]

looks beautiful, you should go back and grind or file that out about half way through th life of the chain

[lumberjack]

If you're trying to match the factory, your top plate angle is a bit too steep, but nothing drastic.


When I hold up I hold up like I'm trying to file towards the middle point of corner of the witness mark and the corner of the edge (in your picture, that's roughly the angle I'm going for, the angle doesn't change as the tooth gets shorter).

It's about time to play with the depth rakers!

[Skwerl]

Looks great, Brendon. Carl was correct that it's just the mark of the original factory grind. After 2-3 more filings you won't hardly notice it.

Your angles look great. Don't change a thing. :)

[brendonv]

Good to know. Now I don't mind sharpening, doing it at chest height standing up helped big time.

[Drella]

This took me years to perfect. Just as important as the tooth, is the raker being properly filed down. If the raker is left high, you may have a sharp chain, but would cut like it was dull...

[biggun]

As has been said angles are critical to the cutter type. When sharpening I always rotate the file away from the tooth whilst lifting slightly. I find it keeps the tooth clean and real sharp.

[Drella]

rotate the file away from the tooth whilst lifting slightly.

I found that this takes quite some time to learn to finesse the file in such a way.

The slight upward and backwardly stroke is most crucial! -is backwardly even a word?

Years ago when learning, I found that sharpening the outside tooth, I would push harder "with my left hand," than that of the inside. This would inevidentably cause the outside to wear quicker, that and the fact that it gets more abuse anyways...

[Drella]

I'm sure this might help keep the angle correct. (http://www.pferdusa.com/photos/600/201/KSSL.jpg)

Sometimes, depending on how I'm bent over the chain, or how tired and how uncomfortable I am kneeling over the saw, I start to get sloppy.

And my file handle, different than what I linked to, helps quite a bit in keeping the angle honed...

A common mistake also is to push down. This will gouge the inside of the tooth and leave the top of the tooth virtually untouched. \ Plus, as you're looking at your chain from above, seeing a shiny edge on the top of the tooths cutting edge, is good gauge of telling when your saw needs filing.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3239/2754819713_08e2fd6491_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3013/2755666092_179e8fc23c_o.jpg

I hope you don't mind that I took liberties with your photos. They were quite the snap-shots and I just couldn't resist...

[Magnus]

Filing is personal and everyone has their own way of filing and cutters shaped as they feel are best.

I file freehand with saw standing on end with bar up. This gives me better control and it is easier to hold angles.

I file so the traces in cutter are in level with top plate and if needed I clean out bottom after...

I try not to get too much of point in top corner as this will grab rather than cut and gets dull too fast.

As standard I touch it up every tank, to hold the sharpness and give it a better beating when I clean/service the saw in the shop. There I file freehand in a vice set up in chest height and this will give me same angles when standing as it is when I sit on a stump...

[hornett22]

if you ever need help learning and are up this way,i'd be glad to show you how to do it. my cell is 860-916-3290 Steve

another trick to getting more life out of your files is to use a file brush.you'll have to find them online or at an old school hardware store.the box stores won't have it or know what it is.Snap On used to have them but no longer offer it.it has many small bristles and gets the metal filings out of the file teeth.

[JonnyHart]

Yeah we had one of those at a company I used to work for, not a bad idea, I used it mostly for cleaning cooked wood off the cutters so I could see the edge. :)

[Jonseredbred]

I am a pro sharpening with the "wave" cut as shown in the picture above.

[Magnus]

I get minimum 50-60 sharpening out of each file.
I wipe off the file after each tooth, rotate it after first stroke so I don't fill the file up with the crap on surface of the tooth and finally clean it with apple cider vinegar so it takes the burr of the files cutters. Lifting file on return gives it a longer life too.

Doing this gets the most out of each file.

Not all files last this long, but most last much longer.

I file 5-6 chains a day in average I think... Mostly 15" .325 and 24" 3/8.

[MasterBlaster]

Apple cider vinegar? No shit? Anyone else do this???

[BlackSmith]

Dad used to sharpen his files with a mild acid bath...

[MasterBlaster]

So where do you get mild acid? What is a brand name?

[Blinky]

Apple cider vinegar is an excellent mild acid.

[MasterBlaster]

Does regular vinegar work? Doesn't it make the file rust???

[Blinky]

I don't know about using it on files. Seems like it would make'em rust if you didn't neutralize it somehow. Water might be good enough.

[Magnus]

It could I guess, but if you use the file it won't...

Don't let it sit in it... Just dip it and uot it with "handle" or mount down, vertically for a bit, then rinse it off in water and Hokus pokus....

It has bite as new again...

[Al Smith]

Does regular vinegar work? Doesn't it make the file rust??? Actually one in the same .White vinegar is just apple cider type that has been distilled .

You smash the apples in a press,squeeze out the juice,presto sweet cider . After a while the yeast from the apple skins causes it to make alcohol but the reaction continues and it turns sour,presto vinegar . If you want to stop this add some raisins and sugar ,presto apple jack .;)

I may be incorrect but I think the mild acidity of vinegar is ascorbic acid .Which by the way is an excellant glass cleaner .It actually etchs the surface of the glass microscopically . Trivia 101 .

[MasterBlaster]

Vitamin C?

[Al Smith]

Vitamin C? I think so .Good for what ails ya . My grandpappys cure for every thing .A table spoon full of vinegar and a teaspoon of honey .