View Full Version : what does my new ms200t need??
PCTREE
06-21-2008, 03:18 PM
OK just picked up a brand new 200t and was wondering about what I should do for break in and then to get best performance????
Thanks
Skwerl
06-21-2008, 03:39 PM
Remove the muffler screen/ baffle and throw it away. Tune the carb so the saw runs correctly without running too lean. The adjustment limiter on the high speed jet is just a collar that slides over the screw. It can be popped off with needle nose pliers or even a screwdriver.
That's it. I have three, ranging from 1.5-5 years old and all three run great. Waiting for an extended period before removing the muffler screen accomplishes nothing except making the saw run hotter and slower during break in. Do it now.
MasterBlaster
06-21-2008, 04:52 PM
I want one of those rear handled models!
PCTREE
06-21-2008, 06:19 PM
how do you one hand a rear handle model?
MasterBlaster
06-21-2008, 06:25 PM
It's easy. :/:
Frans
06-21-2008, 07:41 PM
OK just picked up a brand new 200t and was wondering about what I should do for break in and then to get best performance????
Thanks
Your saw needs to be sent to me for 6 months. I will do all the breaking in thats necessary.
:)
I suggest a tuned pipe and mags.
No_Bivy
06-21-2008, 08:39 PM
I want one of those rear handled models!
:D...das gut
PCTREE
06-21-2008, 09:03 PM
Will, what are mags?
Skwerl
06-21-2008, 09:15 PM
mag wheels, man. 8)
http://customwheel.com/custom_wheels/images/mag.jpg
MasterBlaster
06-21-2008, 09:17 PM
That'll look sweet on a 200.
Al Smith
06-21-2008, 11:36 PM
A 200 is a good little saw with nothing done to it other than what has already been suggested.
I have one setting the garage I'm going to port but I'm just a little on the eccentric side .;)
wiley_p
06-22-2008, 10:16 AM
A bar and sharp chain.:/:
High Scale
06-22-2008, 02:06 PM
mag wheels, man. 8)
http://customwheel.com/custom_wheels/images/mag.jpg
Also, drop it on the floor and add some neons.
Butch the MS200 rear handled saw is a very nice little saw, so light, a joy to use.
BostonBull
06-22-2008, 02:06 PM
Pull the spark arrestor, put a 63PM chain on, and a 30% light bar.
Other than that run 89 octane or better, good oil, and keep the air filter clean.
Great saws!
Porting doesnt get much more out of these saws.
Al Smith
06-22-2008, 11:38 PM
Great saws!
Porting doesnt get much more out of these saws. Well now,we'll just have to see about that .;)
rbtree
06-23-2008, 01:33 AM
Porting doesnt get much more out of these saws.
Better tell that to Ed Heard, who built two for Craig J (rborist1, our departed bud)
BostonBull
06-23-2008, 05:53 AM
Tell it to whomever you'd like. Compare the % gain of a ported 200T with most ANY other saw and the #'s are drastically lower. The 200T is pretty much screaming from the factory.
I am not sayng that porting isnt going to yield results, just not what I want to throw my 2-500 dollars after!
vharrison
06-23-2008, 08:14 AM
Your saw needs to be sent to me for 6 months. I will do all the breaking in thats necessary.
:)
:lol::lol:
rbtree
06-23-2008, 11:10 AM
Tell it to whomever you'd like. Compare the % gain of a ported 200T with most ANY other saw and the #'s are drastically lower. The 200T is pretty much screaming from the factory.
I am not sayng that porting isnt going to yield results, just not what I want to throw my 2-500 dollars after!
And how, pray tell, do you know that, Bull? Have you spoken to Craig or Ed?
The gains were just as impressive as with other Stihls, as I recall. That same can't be said for the Husky climb saws or the 192T, due to their design which includes half the crankshaft housing in the bottom end and half in the cylinder. So, impossible to mill the jug to change squish and compression.
That said, I'd not port a 200T either, as they are usually plenty fast...though not as fast as my now dead 335 which only had a ported muffler and cost me $40, shipping included....and served my well for three years. As well, Ed said that heat might be more of an issue than with a stock 200T, not due to the ported muffler, which allows cooler running, but due to the high rpm's the saw runs, and the ability for a modded one to be set even higher.
My next saw will be a Jonsy 2139T...hoping it can outperform my 200T...
Al Smith
06-23-2008, 12:41 PM
I can't speak for Ed but if I recall correctly he said they could run hot on extended runs times . That makes sense if you think about it .
020 or 200 ,you can make hem boogey . In the portal is a piped either 20 or 200 which was done by Adam Clarck some time ago .As understand it that thing was a screamer ,not an everyday work saw though .
Now I'm not saying to rush right out and port one because they are fine the way they are .I am saying you can make them talk if you are of a mind to .
As for 2 to 5 hundred in it,I likely will have the price of a set of rings in mine .If they are O.K .,just my time .:P
PCTREE
06-23-2008, 04:58 PM
OK so I pulled out the muffler screen and ran it today and man was I happy. I screwed up this winter and decided to try the solo 637. It cut ok for a while but man it just keeps breaking, so finally on friday I had had enough and splurged on the 200. The solo is almost half the price but who gives a hoot when they keep breaking down??? Does a ported saw last as long as a regular one and where can you pick up a modded mufler?
BostonBull
06-23-2008, 05:06 PM
I have spoken to a few builders about the 200T. They ball felt the same way. Put your money elsewhere. They dont have the same % gainsand reliability of other ported Stihls and big Huskies etc etc.
I cant speak for Ed as I havent ever dealt with him. I can speak for the guys I have saws built by.
AL
You are right! I wish I could do half of what you do with a saw!
you might also want to think about extractors and a spoiler for those fast descents.
sawinredneck
06-24-2008, 05:36 PM
I was looking at the Solo's as well, but the money fell in my lap, so it was a 200t no brainier for me!!
I have also heard the 200t doesn't respond as well to mods. Yes, it will respond, but not with the gains normally associated with modding a saw. I think that is where the misunderstanding lies.
Most saws gain 25% with a muffler mod, and another 30ish% with a good port job. Thats a lot of gains.
A 200t might get 15% with both.
You used to be able to buy modded mufflers from Walkers, bu not sure if they still do that. There used to be some guys that were very good at it on AS as well, but I think most of them have been either run off or locked out. I am sure Ed would do one for you, but you'd be better off buying a new muffler and shipping it to him due to the length of time it will be gone.
Skwerl
06-24-2008, 05:48 PM
Yeah, Ed isn't exactly speedy. It's almost like you need to plan your saw needs 6 months in advance. By the time he gets your saw back to you, you've already replaced it.
I pulled a real stupid move today. Left a 200T on top of the truck, lost it in traffic on the way home. Some lady pulled up next to me blowing her horn, told me I lost a saw about a mile back. Went back and couldn't find it. Although in that part of town, it was probably scooped up on the second bounce.
So I stopped at the saw shop and bought a replacement on my way home. Took the muffler screen out and removed the high speed jet limiter as soon as I got it on the bench. Fueled it up, fired it up, dialed it in at about 15K rpm and put it in the truck for work tomorrow. Any sort of 'break in' is already done, it's a work saw now. It will last me a good 5 years or more unless I lose it off the back of the truck. :roll: My other two are 3 and 5 years old, they both run great.
BostonBull
06-24-2008, 06:37 PM
Yeah, Ed isn't exactly speedy. It's almost like you need to plan your saw needs 6 months in advance. By the time he gets your saw back to you, you've already replaced it.
I pulled a real stupid move today. Left a 200T on top of the truck, lost it in traffic on the way home. Some lady pulled up next to me blowing her horn, told me I lost a saw about a mile back. Went back and couldn't find it. Although in that part of town, it was probably scooped up on the second bounce.
So I stopped at the saw shop and bought a replacement on my way home. Took the muffler screen out and removed the high speed jet limiter as soon as I got it on the bench. Fueled it up, fired it up, dialed it in at about 15K rpm and put it in the truck for work tomorrow. Any sort of 'break in' is already done, it's a work saw now. It will last me a good 5 years or more unless I lose it off the back of the truck. :roll: My other two are 3 and 5 years old, they both run great.
That is the absolute worst feeling!
Skwerl
06-24-2008, 06:45 PM
Any Stihl dealers here or anyone else know off the top of their head the max rpm spec for the 200T? The new one seems a bit fast although I have the high jet over a turn out.
BostonBull
06-24-2008, 07:01 PM
Any Stihl dealers here or anyone else know off the top of their head the max rpm spec for the 200T? The new one seems a bit fast although I have the high jet over a turn out.
14K
Skwerl
06-24-2008, 07:15 PM
Told ya it seemed fast! I'll reset it in the morning before I put it to work, and check it again after the first tank of fuel.
BostonBull
06-24-2008, 07:17 PM
BUT
You did take the mufler screen out. I would run it at 14.5-14.8. listen for it 4 stroing and all is well. lose that 4 stroke sound and danger comes real fast.......for the saw.
squisher
06-25-2008, 01:09 AM
I pulled a real stupid move today. Left a 200T on top of the truck, lost it in traffic on the way home. Some lady pulled up next to me blowing her horn, told me I lost a saw about a mile back. Went back and couldn't find it. Although in that part of town, it was probably scooped up on the second bounce.
You done this before? Awhile back?
i think he did, 2nd time = FIRED! :P
Al Smith
06-25-2008, 02:24 AM
I have also heard the 200t doesn't respond as well to mods. Yes, it will respond, but not with the gains normally associated with modding a saw. I think that is where the misunderstanding lies.
Most saws gain 25% with a muffler mod, and another 30ish% with a good port job. Thats a lot of gains.
A 200t might get 15% with both.
. You have to remember you are likely only dealing with maybe 2.5 horsepower to begin with if that much .
For all I know the thing might be pretty maxed out in stoke form . Hopefully I'll get on it a few weeks or at least by fall .I'll know more then after I disect it .
I painted mine red. gos heaps faster.
BostonBull
06-25-2008, 05:27 AM
I painted mine red. gos heaps faster.
:?
High Scale
06-25-2008, 06:22 AM
I polished the inlet and outlet on one of my 020ts, fitted new rings and drilled a hole in the muffler.
The other had the same treatment but I enlarged the exhaust port a little, both run very well.
Skwerl
06-25-2008, 07:27 AM
You done this before? Awhile back?
i think he did, 2nd time = FIRED! :P
The last time I found the saw, although it took me 3 days to put it back together using spare parts off an old dead saw. :(
Will, I've also heard that red paint is good for at least a 5% increase in power. :D
Al Smith
06-25-2008, 09:30 AM
Well,don't feel so all alone.You are not the first one that bounced a saw off the pavement nor will you be the last .Chit happens .
Skwerl
06-25-2008, 02:15 PM
You know how sometimes you get a saw that's just a bit stronger than most? No reason other than variations in manufacturing, or maybe I just got lucky. But my new 200T frikkin' RIPS! It's not even broken in, but from the very first tank it just feels stronger than normal. I did another big oak removal this morning and I was making 12"-14" cuts and it never hesitated. This was on the 1st and 2nd tank of fuel!
:D
Al Smith
06-25-2008, 02:32 PM
You know how sometimes you get a saw that's just a bit stronger than most? No reason other than variations in manufacturing, or maybe I just got lucky.
:D That remains to this day a great mystery . I've talked to goodly amount of engine builders who know considerabley more than I who will say that very same thing . Even with all the years of knowledge that some have nobody can put a finger onto why that happens . Maybe there is a saw genie .:lol:
Ax-Man
06-25-2008, 09:13 PM
Don't feel bad Brian, did the same darn thing with our 200 three years ago. Left the saw in the open cage of our Elliott and it bounced out. Never did find itafter much backtracking. It hurts to have to buy a new one because of a stupid mistake like that.
I did the same thing with a 041 Super about three years ago. It was sitting on a open door of my service truck, got in the darn truck and took off with the saw sitting on the open door or in this case a shelf. Didn't notice it because the door is below the level of the mirror on the passenger side till someone shouted a door was open:X:X. Hunted and hunted for that saw but never found it.
I miss that saw to this day because I bought it brand new and was one of my first Sthils. It sat idle for many years because I didn't know how to fix it. I got it running again and was using it on jobs. Powerful old workhorse.
inztrees
06-25-2008, 10:19 PM
I just put a 019 bar + chain on my ms200 and its 14'' with a tapered tim andso far so good
Greenhorn
06-26-2008, 11:46 AM
Without a tach is possible to accurately compensate for removing the muffler screen? Perhaps an approximate number of turns out? Thanks!
Al Smith
06-26-2008, 01:20 PM
You don't need a tach nor is there a set amount of turns or fractions there of . Wind that puppy up ,after it's warmed up .Adjust the high speed until it just slightly "4 strokes " in essence running slightly rich .
If you did it correctly the saw might seem to be a little slow until you get into the cut a tad bit then it leans right out and gets with it . At some point in the cut the load will decrease and it then appears to slow down a bit .
I know that may seem to be a stupid way to do it but all that "4 stroking " gets turned into power at some point in the cut . Otherwise it could possibley be running too lean which could damage the engine . Better to be just slightly rich than too lean .
Skwerl
06-26-2008, 04:04 PM
The base settings are indicated right on the saw. The main jet should be 3/4 of a turn out and the low jet should be 1 turn out. You will have to remove the limiter collar on the main jet in order to find your starting point. I've also noticed that the new carbs seem to have smaller main jets, opening them up past 1 turn doesn't seem to affect the mixture any. As mine is getting broken in, it's starting to run a bit lean and I had to richen up the low jet to help compensate for the lack of response on the main jet.
pete mctree
06-26-2008, 04:22 PM
maybe it requires the drill bit?8)
PCTREE
06-26-2008, 04:53 PM
what are the specs on that there hole? looks like you put some time into engineering that modification:P
brendonv
06-26-2008, 04:54 PM
To tell you the truth, I never adjusted after removing that spark arrester. Saw runs fine almost 3 years later.
Ax-Man
06-26-2008, 07:07 PM
OK, I am goingto ask the $10, 000 question.
Where did this quote term " 4 stroking" come from anyway in relationship to saw tuning. I know what it means but I never heard of this catch phrase 4 stroking till I got involved in these chainsaws on the net.
Am I missing something somewhere along the line?? I just fail to see how a proper tuned 4 stroke engine has anything to do with adjusting a chainsaw carb.
Skwerl
06-26-2008, 07:12 PM
OK, I am goingto ask the $10, 000 question.
Where did this quote term " 4 stroking" come from anyway in relationship to saw tuning. I know what it means but I never heard of this catch phrase 4 stroking till I got involved in these chainsaws on the net.
Am I missing something somewhere along the line?? I just fail to see how a proper tuned 4 stroke engine has anything to do with adjusting a chainsaw carb.
He's referring to hearing just a tiny bit of 'blubbering' in the sound of the saw at full throttle without a load. You hold the throttle wide open, tune it to the highest rpm, then keep turning the screw counterclockwise until the rpm's drop a bit and you hear a hint of a blubber.
Burnham
06-26-2008, 07:16 PM
I think Larry knows what the term refers to, Brian...he's asking what the origin of the term is...I'd like to know as well :).
Greenhorn
06-26-2008, 07:50 PM
yeah, I never heard of it, but will probably adopt it! I've tuned Holleys a bit and flat slide motorcycle stuff and never heard it.
GASoline71
06-26-2008, 11:57 PM
I think Larry knows what the term refers to, Brian...he's asking what the origin of the term is...I'd like to know as well :).
The first time I ever heard the term was when I went to Madsen's website for saw carb tuning...
Madsen's saw carb tuning page. (http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm)
This step by step from Madsen's is the best saw carb tuning advice i have ever read or used...
Gary
Skwerl
06-27-2008, 12:00 AM
Thanks Gary! I used to have that page bookmarked, but about 1-2 years ago Madsen's took down everything on their website except the main page. Last time I checked about 6 months ago it was still gone so I deleted the bookmark. Glad they finally got it back up again.
:)
Al Smith
06-27-2008, 02:24 AM
I don't know where the term came from either though I use it frequently .
It could perhaps be the way the engine emulates a 4 cycle sound when set slightly rich .
Greenhorn
06-27-2008, 08:54 AM
just remembered I heard it back when tuning model airplane engines like the old COX .049 and the like
Al Smith
07-01-2008, 09:58 AM
just remembered I heard it back when tuning model airplane engines like the old COX .049 and the like Those were lot's of fun back when I was a youngster .Kinda hard to fly one though if they started up backwards .:lol:
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