Husky 2100

[bergsteiger]

Ok so I went to a contractor's moving sale this morning and found an old 2100 that he gave me for $5. I put fresh gas in it but didn't start (not that I expected it to from the way it looked). I'm not much of a saw mechanic but I'd like to try and resurrect this thing. It feels like it has good compression- wants to yank your arm off- but it looks like it hasn't been used in 10 years. I would assume I need to go through the carb and fuel lines and such first. I'd appreciate any input about how to go about this and also if anyone knows where to get parts. Thanks.

[Skwerl]

Looks rough. I'll give ya $50 plus shipping for it. :D

Seriously, I'd have to break it down and clean it up real good just to see what was there. Then diagnose problems, look for broken stuff, etc. PM me if you're interested in passing it along.

[bergsteiger]

Yeah I plan to spray it with air and see how much I can clean off. $50? nah this saw was made to run in the big northwest softwoods. :D

[MasterBlaster]

It's the wrong color!

[GASoline71]

Wow... that thing looks beat...

I know there are diamonds in the rough... but that saw looks like it has been trashed.

Not tryin' to rain on your parade... but it's gonna take some work just to get it cleaned up to see if it's even salvageable.

Pull the muffler off and look at the condition of the piston and cylinder through the exhaust port.

That will tell ya righ there if you have a good find... or a basket case.

It also looks like whoever was usin' it... was runnin' used crankcase oil for bar oil. Yuck...

Gary

[sawinredneck]

Like Gary said, pull off the muffler and have a looksie. Dissasmble it all and WASH IT!!!
Lots of parts to start with, just depends on whats good. Most parts should be available from you're Husky dealer.
We should be able to talk you through about any of it.

[bergsteiger]

Ok I'll try and get some pictures of the piston and cylinder as I don't really know what it should look like. I've been trying to clean off as much as possible but I think they did use old motor oil in it.

[Werks 4 da Man]

Looks good to me man! I've started off worse.

Throw a little fuel down the carb after you clean up the area around it and see if she purrs.

Fred

[Magnus]

You are in for a surprice!

These are very nice saws!

[GASoline71]

Ok I'll try and get some pictures of the piston and cylinder as I don't really know what it should look like. I've been trying to clean off as much as possible but I think they did use old motor oil in it.

You'll know... trust me... any deep scratches or gouges through the piston rings will be a tell tale sign.

Worst part about people usin' old crankcase oil is that is stains the plasic and paint on the saws... :|:

Gary

[bergsteiger]

Well I got a new spark plug and cranked on it with the plug out of the cylinder and didn't see a spark so I would assume the ignition is shot. It looks like fuel is getting to the cylinder though.
Here is a picture of the cylinder and two of the piston. Best I could manage with my camera. The piston looks like it has some burn marks on it or something. The last one is the local deer in the yard after I got home from the store this morning.

[BostonBull]

The cylinder looks good. It definitely has some carbon buildup, but nothing too bad.

I would try to get some of that gunk off the cooling fins, rebuild/replace(if needed) the carb, replace the fuel and impulse lines(if needed), new fuel filter, figure out the spark issue. May just be a gap issue!, check the oil tank and oil line for proper flow, clean out behind the brake band........I am sure that is it FULL of gunk!, check the sprocket and sprocket bearings.

After all that the saw should be like brand new.

It may not need all of this, some if it is complete overkill. BUT it will be a great worry free saw if all is done.

The 2100 is a great powerul saw that is desred by hotsaw racers.

Good luck!

[Skwerl]

Was the 2100 electronic ignition or points? I've heard that there is a module you can buy to put electronic ignition on motors that had points originally.

I ran a 2101 and a 3120 when I worked at Davey, much preferred the 2101.

[GASoline71]

When checking for spark with the plug out of the saw... Make sure you are grounding the plug to something like a cooling fin when you are checking for spark, or you won't get any spark at all.

Gary

[sotc]

a good clean one at that

[bergsteiger]

I used some degreaser and it cleaned up decently and no spark still. What is the "gap issue" that Boston Bull is talking about? There are ignition coils on ebay for this saw for $70-$80. I also need to find an air filter somewhere that fits. The one on it is a K&N :? I don't know if its a car filter or what.
Oh yeah when I pump the oiler I can hear air coming out by the clutch but no oil so I don't know what the deal with that is.
I don't know if this saw originally had a chain brake either because I can't see where it would go.

[sawinredneck]

The "gap issue" means you may have to lightly sand the contacts on the coil and magnets on the flywheel to remove any rust then "gap" the coil to the flwheel. This reffers to the air gap between them. Ussually you can take a piece of paper and fold it three times then place it between the coil and flywheel then tighten the coil. It's easy.
I believe that air filter is from a "max flow" kits, I think they are still available, or a god dealer can get you a factory air filter but you will NEED to buy a new cover for the factory filter to work properly.

[bergsteiger]

Sorry if this is a stupid question but do I have to take the flywheel off? If I do don't you need a special tool?

[GASoline71]

You don't need to pull the flywheel off to "sand" the contacts. A special puller is prolly required. Many a saw flywheel has been destroyed by usin' automotive style gear pullers.

One smal piece of advice on tryin' to get this great old saw runnin'... If you are not careful you will have far more money into it than it will ever be worth... :)

Trust me on this one. ;)

Gary

[Al Smith]

Most likely the air gap on the coil to flywheel is around 10 to 12 thou .

Clean the crude off that thing and just get a rebuild kit for the carb because most likely it will need it any way .

Even if you have to pony up 90 bucks for an ignition that is one of the hottest saws ever made and can be modified to be an absolute screamen demon if you choose .

Buuut,before you do anything with the ignition ,make sure all the wiring is intact and nothing is shorted out .Often times this is the problem .

[Al Smith]

If you search the data base on this site it lists the 2100 some place .The IPL might be of interest to you if you attempt to get it running again .http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp

[sawinredneck]

Sorry if this is a stupid question but do I have to take the flywheel off? If I do don't you need a special tool?

The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.

No, the adjustment is made by using the slot in the coil. Take the two screws out (sometimes three) and you can remove the coil to sand down the pickups, and have access to the flywheel. Then line the pickups with the magnet, put in a feeler gauge, or paper folde over (one sheet of paper is around .005") and let the magnet suck the coil down and tighten the bolts, then remove the paper.
It's easy.
Like Al said, check the wires, and if in doubt, pull the wire from the coil off the on/off switch to make sure it's no a bad switch as well.

[bergsteiger]

Ok soooo maybe I'm missing something I can't seem to access the coil - which is behind the flywheel right? Here are a couple pictures of what it looks like. There don't seem to be any screws or anything to take the coil off. There are those three recessed holes in the flywheel but it doesn't look like theres screwheads in them.

Also called Madsen's today to try and locate an air filter but they couldn't any that are still available. They might be able to get me a K&N aftermarket though.

[Al Smith]

Well how about that it does seem to be behind the flywheel .Wonder why they put it there .:?

[Magnus]

They are there on all these Older ones.

"CD" is no points and "S" is with points.

So if you get a 280S it should have points, and 280CD should have a CDI Module. Flyeels don't interchange and in some model's crank is diffrent too on CD.

[Magnus]

Ok soooo maybe I'm missing something I can't seem to access the coil - which is behind the flywheel right? Here are a couple pictures of what it looks like. There don't seem to be any screws or anything to take the coil off. There are those three recessed holes in the flywheel but it doesn't look like theres screwheads in them.

The three holes are meant to hold a puller.
If you take a spacer and drill holes in it to put bolts in to flyweel, then wels a nut in center that will hold the puching bolt on to crank, you have a puller!
I go snap a pic of mine...



Also called Madsen's today to try and locate an air filter but they couldn't any that are still available. They might be able to get me a K&N aftermarket though.

Make a post on CSCF, I am sure there are filters somewere.

[Magnus]

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/73MMM/0012.jpg

[sawinredneck]

CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I HATE points saws!

[Magnus]

This is a 2100CD so you proberbly love it then!

[Magnus]

CD= No pints...

That is a good thing...

Now...... Finding new CDI module is not alway's easy.

[bergsteiger]

Ok thanks for the clarification guys. Maybe I'll just have to take it in to a shop to have the flywheel taken off. Don't really have the tools to make my own puller. And thanks Magnus but I just ordered another one of those K&Ns from Madsens.

[bergsteiger]

So at this point it looks like it at least needs a new ignition. I'm not sure if I want to put more money into it or not. Would anybody here be interested in maybe trading gear for this saw or buying it?

[Skwerl]

I'll give ya $60 for it delivered to 32730.

[BostonBull]

I'll give ya $60 for it delivered to 32730.

ill do $85

[Al Smith]

Let the bidding begin,90 bucks here .;)

[bergsteiger]

Great now I'll regret selling it after one of you guys fixes it :|:

[Al Smith]

Great now I'll regret selling it after one of you guys fixes it :|: Ah but look at it like this ,not only will uncle Al fix it but it will run like the wind .;)

[Magnus]

I throw in $100+shipping!

:)

[bergsteiger]

Ok I guess if you want to pay the shipping to Sweden. Just so you know and nobody is disappointed, like I said before the piston/cylinder seems ok (see earlier pictures) can't get it to spark after putting in a new plug and checking connections, don't have any idea how well the carb works and the oiler maybe kinda works. I did put a brand new K&N air filter on it and a newer top cover that isn't cracked from a 2101 which also has the filter cover for a factory filter. The bar and chain could be included but the chain looks like somebody tried to cut a rock with it and the 32" bar could probably be used with some work.

If anybody wants to outbid Magnus I'll give you until midnight PST Tuesday.

And heres a couple pictures after I cleaned it up and put those new parts on it.

[rbtree]

Too bad you couldn't get her going, berg....


I have a 2100 that is pretty and a not so pretty 2101...and a 480CD.....after seeing some go really high on ebay, I'm gonna try to sell at least 2 of them...

All three run well, and have 150-175# compression

Maybe before you sell, you should get hold of Andy, who fixed mine for me. Bryce of Cheap Stihl Parts may well have a module....pm me.....

[Magnus]

Ok I guess if you want to pay the shipping to Sweden.

I think we have room for this on the pallet.
I sent a pallet saws to US for show, trades and sales etc.
Plan is to fill it op with saws to return....

You can send it to William Green if I get it...

[bergsteiger]

Maybe before you sell, you should get hold of Andy, who fixed mine for me. Bryce of Cheap Stihl Parts may well have a module....pm me.....

Yeah but by the time I paid Andy, paid for whatever parts are needed, I could probably just about buy a good used 066 or 394/395 which is probably better for me anyways.

[GASoline71]

If I had the time... I would do all the work for ya for beer my friend...

I am just waaayyy too far behind in all my projects.

Sorry mang...

Gary

[bergsteiger]

Hey I'm already behind in my projects too Gary. :D

[William Greene]

I think we have room for this on the pallet.
I sent a pallet saws to US for show, trades and sales etc.
Plan is to fill it op with saws to return....

You can send it to William Green if I get it...

me likes 2100's.....so you'd better watch out where you send it :/:

[sotc]

haha, pallets empty magnus:D

[Magnus]

I wiil haveto keep my eye open then!

:lol:

[Al Smith]

Well,things have changed somewhat .That saw is sitting in my garage because Magnus's situation changed regarding the saw .

I'll give it a look see in the AM to see what I can do with it .It's not a matter of will it run,rather when .I've never been whipped by a saw yet as far as making it putt and this will be no exception .;)

[Al Smith]

Up date ,it runs .I got a different coil ,rebuilt the carb,new fuel line,.made a bushing for the starter and retapped some holes .

Ran like a scalded ape for about 5 minutes until it got good and warm ,then leaned out .Obvious air leak, more than likely clutch side seal .

This old gal had not been running for some time by the looks of the petrified carb innards . More to do,get-er-done .:)

[bergsteiger]

Good to hear its running Al. Wish I could hear it. I hope that air leak isn't too difficult to fix.

[GASoline71]

...I hope that air leak isn't too difficult to fix.


It is... clutch side seals are a bitch... you gotta pull the crank...

Gary

[Al Smith]

It is... clutch side seals are a bitch... you gotta pull the crank...

Gary:O --really . I'll have to investigate .On the Stihl's and Macs I just thumped in the drywall screw and popped them right out .

If I get time after work I'll spin the clutch off and have a look see .

[Magnus]

Removing clutches on these should not be very hard.
They usually are not very stubborn...

[Al Smith]

Oh this thing is easy as falling off a log .Just remove the oil pump and the seal is on the back side .

[William Greene]

how's it turning out so far? ;)
it should be a good saw when its done.
it's my favorite,i should have bought a few and put'em up in the attic :D

[Al Smith]

I'm going to fire the old bird up again ,maybe tommorow .I think the problem was that the oil pump housing was just a little loose thus alowing a little leak after it warmed up .I replaced the slotted head screws with socket heads and put the tights to them . The seal looked fine .

It definately has the power when it is running good ,pulled a 36 buried with no problem at all .

While on the subject,how in the world do you adjust the oiler,or do you ?

[Al Smith]

That damned big old saw just about whipped the tar out of this old farm boy .That thing should have been built with a comp release .Cranking over 100 cc's , without one ,you gotta be chitten me:what:

The thing evidently has residue of the old fuel hose in the tank ,plugs the screen in the carb with little black goo that looks like powdered charcoal . I must have had the carb off half a dozen times .I'm going to give it a power douce with the pressure washer I think .

The big Swede has plenty of power when it runs though .I think it's going to be just fine if I don't loose my cool before I get it right .At the moment I'm a little pissed so I'll just punish it in the shed for a day or so untill I regain my composure .:lol:

[bergsteiger]

Damn, your description of how the saw runs is making me want another one :cry:

Is that the bar I sent you with the saw?

[Al Smith]

Not the way it runs now,not worth a hoot but it will .;) Yep,same bar,I dressed the rails with a beltsander and laid the file to the skip chain which by the way is Stihl .

[GASoline71]

:O --really . I'll have to investigate .On the Stihl's and Macs I just thumped in the drywall screw and popped them right out .

If I get time after work I'll spin the clutch off and have a look see .

I must have been thinkin' of somethin' else... :|: I've been wrong before... LOL...

Gary

[Al Smith]

Some time ago somebody made comment that on a few Husky saws you could change the bearings by using a special bearing puller . Until I saw this praticular model I would have sworn they were pulling my leg . I do believe a person can .

Live and learn .I went all my life and never turned a wrench on a Husqvarna then in the last 4-5 months about a half dozen of them all of the sudden .

[Al Smith]

I only pouted for two days and got back on it .Sometimes I pout for a year or two .;)

Pressure washed the fuel tank and the black chit just ran out ,changed fuel line and filter and cleaned out the carb for ten zillioneth time .

Success :D The old duffer runs like young pup .Lot's of compression so the rings /cylinder are A-OK . Too early to tell how it actually does ,about like a good running 066 it seems but a tad more heavy .Oils a darned set better than an 066 for sure .

I'll run it a while when cutting season gets here to check it out further .If I decide to soup it up I'll make a thread at a later date ,most likely late in the fall after it cools off .

[Thor's Hammer]

I miss my 2100 :cry:
Got stolen off a job in Liverpool years ago.

I would say it probably has a touch more torque than a 66 Al, at least in my experience.
You want to swap it for a 181?:D

[Al Smith]

You want to swap it for a 181?:D Actually last month I had both a 181 and a 281 sitting on the bench .Pretty impressive saws but they can't hold a candle to this thing when it comes to grunt .Thanks but I'll pass .

[Thor's Hammer]

81 series are probably closer to 066 type. Like you say, the 2100 has grunt...